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Old 07-11-2017, 02:08 AM   #1
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ONE LUCKY FIX: A&E OASIS ELECTRIC ENTRY DOOR AWNING FOR 30-Cents! (MODEL# 974)

HOW TO FIX YOUR A&E DOMETIC ELECTRIC ENTRY DOOR AWNING FOR 30-Cents! (MODEL #974 aka Fiamma 45i)

I must have spent 2 hours calling every RV parts house in the USA. And I almost was going to call Australia to look for my part, when I came up with an idea to “PIN” the little sucker right where she sits! …But how?

PROBLEM: My entry door awning sprung open and now I can’t close it or drive away.

SOLUTION: A) Since the awning is already open you can just remove the 2 screws that hold the awning backplate to the coach. Then undo the LH Cap, and cut the wires. Then slide the entire awning assembly off the channel for repair later. Or...

B) You can go get a 30 cent 3/4”L x 5/32”Round expansion pin from your local hardware store and fix the stripped, female, end-Cap-Tube right where the awning sits.

Here are the essential steps laid out in detail, because this is the only option I can think of that will fix your awning when the “D-Shaped” or “Square-Shaped” motor drive sheared off the inside of the female-end-cap piece and you awning motor spins, but you awning will not retract.

Note: Dometic mislabeled my part as Part# 3108710.108, when the good part # is 3310300.000. …But it doesn’t matter what the part number is since you can’t find these parts anywhere in the USA, and Fiamma is not making parts for their Oasis 45i Model they OEM'd to Dometic when the RV was built.

It took me 3 hours to figure everything out, but with these tips you can probably get the job done in 1.5 hours!

1) Take a piece of black tape and place somewhere on awning base plate and run over the edge to the side wall of the coach. Then cut the tape in the middle. This tip will help you re-align the awning and find the 2 mounting holes for re-assembly.

2) Slide the entire awning just far enough to reach one of the back mounting screws for the motor...to the end cap roller. Then unscrew the front mounting screw. Cut the wires. Drill out a small rivet holding the bottom portion. (Later you can use a small screw and some glue when you re-install.)

3) Take a long strip of duck-tape and use it to pull the scissor arms of the awning together to relieve the tension off the left side you are working on.

4) Pry the motor and PVC Plate away from the awning end. …And peak inside the female-end-cap of the awning. If it's round inside then this is why your awning will not retract, even when the motor is working properly.

What happens is that the hard motor shaft eventually shears-off inside "D-Shape" or "Square" shape inside the female-end-cap.

However, female end is still in good condition, then maybe your motor is not working, and you can open it up and clean it out and re-lubricate it? If not, and your motor is fried, you maybe S.O.L. Or maybe you can go to an auto parts shop and find a window motor that will fit?

If you go this route, please let us all now what type of motor can be used in place of this Fiamma motor that I hear can cost $500+... and that's if you can find one!!! But I bet 80% of the time you have a stripped out or sheared female-end-cap like I had.

5) So now we want to “Pin” the motor shaft to the female-end-cap aka “Cap Roller Tube” -- the way it should have been designed in the first place, if you ask me!

6) You now need to modify (cut away) a small portion of the the PVC Plate. This is molded piece that is attached to the motor with 3- screws. And the portion of PVC material you want to cut away will create a “keyhole” so you can insert a compression pin when you re-assemble this part to the motor.

To do this, you should mark off a 3/8” area in the front (facing forward) area, just below the mounting screw hole… and all the way to the center. (See picture.) Use as gig saw and file. The soft PVC is easy to cut.

This where your compression pin is going fit through the PVC Plate... into a 5/32” hole… that you are going to drill through the female-cap-end and the motor shaft.

Note: I also flared the PVC end, but this is not necessary if you trim the pin down from 3/4” to 9/16”. You also need to do this so the pin does not rub on the inside of the PVC “bearing” plate when it spins.

7) Reassemble the Plate to the Motor, but first insert the hard to get to rear hold-down screw in the back part first. When the motor is realigned, tighten the front screw.

With the motor shaft and female-cap-shaft now visible through the “keyhole” you just made in the PVC Plate; use a 1/8” drill bit to drill a hole through both the female-end-cap pot metal and the hard motor shaft. (Be careful not to go all the way though the other side of the PVC.)

Now use a 5/32” drill bit to make a “clean hole”. (Note: You need a good quality “steel” drill bit to avoid wobble. And you need a “clean” hole so the compression pin will not wiggle loose later.)

8) Cut ~1/8” off the end of the 3/4" long -- 5/32” compression pin. This is because you only need 9/16” to 5/8” compression pin to join the motor shaft to the female-cap-end.

Now, with your hand, use a small drill bit to hold the hollow pin and steady your hand to align the pin... so you can get it started in the hole. (If you have trouble getting the pin started, compress one end with some pliers.)

Once the compression pin is in place, use a nail set or Philips screw driver to tap it into place with a hammer. BUT, BE CAREFUL NOT TO PUNCH THE PIN ALL THE WAY THROUGH TO WHERE IS HITS THE PVC ON THE OTHER END.

... And now you are almost done! Just text for awning retraction and then fully re-assemble. Note: Don’t play with the awning. Moving it in-and-out fast is NOT good and may overheat the motor or worse brake something you will regret. So contain your excitement and be happy with just a couple exercising passes… so you use silicon spray to lube up the swing arms and joints.

Congratulations! You just dodged another RV bullet!

PICTURES APPEAR BLOW

Schematic & Part numbers Model 973 or 974


#7 Stripped Female-End-Cap-Roller (Mine should be D-Shaped inside.)


#14 PVC Plate Bearing


#15 Winch Motor (after you drill a 5/32" hole)


Assembled Unit (MODIFIED FOR Compression Pin)


Quick look at Modified Female-Cap-End-Roller
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:19 AM   #2
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Thanks for the post! Great post, well written, good pics! My door awning went out last week. Hopefully it's just a motor/gear cleaning as the awning did not spring out, just that the motor did not want to bring it in...

I can't seem to locate a manual for the 974 model. Have you found one?
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Old 07-11-2017, 02:07 PM   #3
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Good question, because now I can tell you that Fiamma built your entry door awning, not Dometic or A&E.

To answer your question, you will find 2 different part numbers. Fiamma will have their part numbers and A&E Dometic will have a completely different set.

To find good schematics for your awning, download the Fiamma Parts zip file located on the the Fiamma USA website. However, when ordering in the USA from RV suppliers/Distributors, if that ever becomes possible again, you will need to know the A&E Dometic "Oasis" Part Numbers.

NOTE: The only place I found my Dometic Model Number was on the literature that came with my RV. ...And the labels I found on the awning mounting plate belonged to Fiamma USA.

In my case, my label said "F45i", which is a Fiamma model number; and it said "Oasis", which is a Dometic product name now called A&E Dometic.

To make matters worse, Fiamma USA is closed down indefinitely. So at this time you can't go to them for parts, like you once use to. ...Still, I'm not sure you would found your part with Fiamma, because most of the parts for older RVs are no longer being made. And Fiamma USA is where the RV Suppliers get their parts.

Note: Fiamma is bigger in Europe and Australia, but I think there is only a slim chance you can find parts looking there. But if anyone finds a good source for Fiamma/A&E Dometic Awning parts, please let us all know.

This is what I recommend you do before you begin your awning repair project:

1) Go to the Fiamma USA website to obtain schematics for your Fiamma model number, based on the sticker found after you open the awning. On Fiamma USA's website you will find clear schematics and Fiamma Part Numbers. Fiamma Inc. - Download

2) Next, go to the Laurelhurst Distributor website Laurelhurst Distributors and click on the "Parts Breakdown" button. Then find your Awning section and on to your A&E Dometic model number. There you find a poorly visible schematic, but they will have A&E part numbers.

Laurelhurst is located in Portland, OR. Call 503-232-2686. And I have had good success working with them. But like PPL Parts you are better off giving the parts service person part number to check stock. (Parts people are not big chatter boxes so I recommend you have your ducks-lined-up before you call. (Note: Some suppliers have some old stock still on their shelves, but not much is left. Motors and their female mates are no where to be found.)

3} Start calling RV supply stores to see you you can replace your broken parts.

In my case, you need to know the Female-End-Cap Roller Tub-LH part that I needed was improperly listed by Dometic as Part#3108710.108. Rather, I think the correct part number is 3310300.000, but here again, I could not find stock anywhere.

The good news is that I saved $150 and fixed it myself (as detailed above) in one day, which turned out to be a better way to go anyway!

Note: In June-2017, Fiamma USA was shut down by a terrible tragedy. I won't go into any details. ...We can only hope the company and the families involved find a way to recover.
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Old 07-11-2017, 02:33 PM   #4
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I would like to amend one step in the procedure above as follows:

When I said: "...use a 1/8” drill bit to drill a hole through both the female-end-cap pot metal and the hard motor shaft. (Be careful not to go all the way though the other side of the PVC.) ...and then re-drill the hole to 5/32".

...I now think you should drill through the PVC completely, end-to-end. This way, you can punch the compression pin out in the future if you ever need to remove the motor.

However, since I completed my repair without drilling the PVC all the way through, please double check your PVC Plate to know this is possible or not... as I see screw holes on the other side of the plate that may prevent you from doing this.

In closing, be gentle with your awning. It's the last one you will ever have. And I mean that quite literally, since there does not seem to be any replacement parts out there.

...But I am still hopeful, someone will find a car window motor that can be used when your motor fails, because Fiamma had to buy these from someone. And I'm betting it was some Italian manufacture, since every car window motor I have replaced was made in Italy. (This is a hint to all you out there in the know! Because it would be of great benefit to all of us to find a replacement motor source for less than $100!)
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Old 07-11-2017, 03:25 PM   #5
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Re-upload photos, because PhotoBucket.com may prevent access to previous pictures posted in the future.
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:06 PM   #6
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Nice job! Thanks for that info.

Can't navigate to the thumbnail photos anymore so you were right to repost bigger photos...thank you!

Compression pin? I don't know what that is actually in this application but I can guess. Why a compression pin? There is a thing called a 'Shear pin' that is made of soft metal that 'shears' off in a case where too much force is applied, and is a standard method of protecting both the motor and gears or actuators. Is a compression pin similar?
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Old 07-18-2017, 05:02 PM   #7
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Finally tore into mine. All plastic pieces looked good. I did find the bearing plate loose and the motor was slightly dirty. Cleaned, tightened, and put it back together. Works great!
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Old 07-25-2017, 11:50 AM   #8
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Here's a picture of the compression pin referred to in #8 above. Remember, you need to cut ~1/8 off the end. This pin measures 3/4" long when you buy it from your local hardware store, but you only want it to be 5/8" in length.

It's also 5/32 in diameter so be sure to drill a precise hole for it to fit in. ...And per my revised recommendation, I recommend you drill your hole all the way through PVC on the other end so you can knock the pin out to remove it in the future, should that ever become necessary. In fact, I would drill the hole in the PVC larger (7/32" - 1/4") so the pin can be easily knocked out. (I assume this is possible, but do check that you can drill completely through the other side of the PVC without any trouble hitting a bolt hole.)
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Old 12-11-2017, 06:22 PM   #9
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Thank you ! And others here on the forum for the help I have found.
This just happened to me Today . I pressed the button and it shot out like a rocket .
I started to tear into it . Now I know what to do ! Thank again !
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Old 12-12-2017, 11:59 AM   #10
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Once again I want to thank IMNPRSD for the helpfull advise .
Here also is a link for some additional pictures .
Weather Pro UhOh
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Old 01-25-2018, 10:28 AM   #11
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Oasis Door Awning

Hi all!

Just went through the process of fixing my Oasis Door awning and posted the process to my blog site. My awning would not open or close without help and the fabric needed to be replaced.
Hope this helps at least a few of you.

https://wheeledhorizons.blogspot.com/2017/02/

As you have learned by reading the posts above the awning is made by Fiamma in Italy and parts and service are very hard to come by. I was able to get parts I needed by calling their Florida sales office- but I am also aware that I was lucky- many parts are not available any more

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Old 05-02-2018, 04:32 PM   #12
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Fiamma are in Orlando FL They were very helpful and have all the parts I needed.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:37 PM   #13
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imnprsd, Many thanks for the great instructions.

Followed the original instructions, installed the new tension (spring) pin. Works great.

Took my time, spent lots of time thinking and trying to be sure not to make a mistake. Took me about 6 hours. My awning is pop riveted to side of the MH so I did the drilling while the motor and awning was still on the RV.

Really hard to drill by hand and minimize the wobbling of the drill.

Really great idea to drill the 1/8" hole first and finish with the 5/32.

I didn't read all postings until I finished, so didn't drill all the way though the PVC. Excellent idea though.

The tension pin is made of really hard steel. Took me almost 15 minutes with a hack saw to cut through.

I bought my tension pin at Lowes. They only had a 1 1/4" pin. Local Home Depot did not stock the tension pin. At both hardware chains you can do an online search for "tension pin" or "spring pin" and see if they have them in stock.
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Old 04-17-2019, 03:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Good question, because now I can tell you that Fiamma built your entry door awning, not Dometic or A&E.

To answer your question, you will find 2 different part numbers. Fiamma will have their part numbers and A&E Dometic will have a completely different set.

To find good schematics for your awning, download the Fiamma Parts zip file located on the the Fiamma USA website. However, when ordering in the USA from RV suppliers/Distributors, if that ever becomes possible again, you will need to know the A&E Dometic "Oasis" Part Numbers.

NOTE: The only place I found my Dometic Model Number was on the literature that came with my RV. ...And the labels I found on the awning mounting plate belonged to Fiamma USA.

In my case, my label said "F45i", which is a Fiamma model number; and it said "Oasis", which is a Dometic product name now called A&E Dometic.

To make matters worse, Fiamma USA is closed down indefinitely. So at this time you can't go to them for parts, like you once use to. ...Still, I'm not sure you would found your part with Fiamma, because most of the parts for older RVs are no longer being made. And Fiamma USA is where the RV Suppliers get their parts.

Note: Fiamma is bigger in Europe and Australia, but I think there is only a slim chance you can find parts looking there. But if anyone finds a good source for Fiamma/A&E Dometic Awning parts, please let us all know.

This is what I recommend you do before you begin your awning repair project:

1) Go to the Fiamma USA website to obtain schematics for your Fiamma model number, based on the sticker found after you open the awning. On Fiamma USA's website you will find clear schematics and Fiamma Part Numbers. Fiamma Inc. - Download

2) Next, go to the Laurelhurst Distributor website Laurelhurst Distributors and click on the "Parts Breakdown" button. Then find your Awning section and on to your A&E Dometic model number. There you find a poorly visible schematic, but they will have A&E part numbers.

Laurelhurst is located in Portland, OR. Call 503-232-2686. And I have had good success working with them. But like PPL Parts you are better off giving the parts service person part number to check stock. (Parts people are not big chatter boxes so I recommend you have your ducks-lined-up before you call. (Note: Some suppliers have some old stock still on their shelves, but not much is left. Motors and their female mates are no where to be found.)

3} Start calling RV supply stores to see you you can replace your broken parts.

In my case, you need to know the Female-End-Cap Roller Tub-LH part that I needed was improperly listed by Dometic as Part#3108710.108. Rather, I think the correct part number is 3310300.000, but here again, I could not find stock anywhere.

The good news is that I saved $150 and fixed it myself (as detailed above) in one day, which turned out to be a better way to go anyway!

Note: In June-2017, Fiamma USA was shut down by a terrible tragedy. I won't go into any details. ...We can only hope the company and the families involved find a way to recover.
I was at Fiamma USA a month ago. They are located in Orlando, FL. My door awning was made by Dometic though and they didn't have a fix for mine. Wish I had seen this before I spent $400 for a new motor. My old motor worked but the same part broke.

A Dometic rep at the Tampa RV show told me Fiamma made their awnings from 2006-09. She also told me Fiamma USA was in FL.
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