Paint "Black" Trim under Compartment doors

[RVDriver]

On my 2003 Adventure, surface rust,I need to scrape and repaint the "Black" on the
bottom of my storage compartments, and the strip under the door above
the steps.

What "Type" of paint should I use?

By that I mean "RustOleum" from Hardware Store, or "Automotive" from
Auto Parts Store, if from Auto Parts Store, "Lacquer or Enamel"?

Went to the "Paint Code" sheet, and its great for all "Colors", but find nothing on Black Trim Paint.

Bruce

[Peddler]

I'm going to use Loctite Extend, which is a rust neutralizer, and then over paint with RustOleum. I did the battery box last week and was pleased with the results.

[RVThere]

I used 'naval jelly' on some bad rust near the hitch.

For the slide out, I used Rust-oleum Rusty Metal Primer and then a coat of Rust-oleum Flat Protective Enamel.

[GG1]

I used a product called POR 15 on the same thing you are working on, the black wall behind the cabinet doors on another motorhome I had. It worked very good, the web site is very informative I used only the black primer and it came out good.

[Hikerdogs]

I'm in the process of doing the same job. It's the 3rd time for paintung the areas surrounding the storage cabinet doors and both ends of the slide. Both times in the past I ground everything down to bare metal, primed it with RustOleum primer and did 2 topcoats of RustOleum Satin Black. Needless to say it hasn't performed as well as expected.

This time I purchased POR 15 chassis paint kit on e bay from Don Hart Restorations. It comes with 1 quart of Metal Prep, 1 quart of Marine Clean, 1 quart of solvent, 1 quart of POR15 Silver (for heavily rusted surfaces), and a quart of Chassis Black topcoat.

It's a bit more expensive than the Rustoleum at $99.00 + shipping for the kit, but hopefully it'll be more permanent. It's probably going to be a couple weeks before I get the job done. It's supposed to be cool and rain for the next several days. The instructions are quite specific in that everything has to be preped and thoroughly dry before applying the paint.

[zippo]

Our dealer just repainted ours, we had 3 days of warranty left. First the dealer removed the gas struts, rubber gaskets and latches. Next sanded off all rust down to bare shinny metal. Applied a rather clear looking rust inhibitor which had to dry over night. Then primed with a gray primer, let it dry about an hour and then sprayed with a black paint. It looks like new, but I hope it lasts longer than the new did.

[pine tree]

You can't stop the rust. I cleaned mine up coated it with 50 year silicone caulk. I then pop rivited 2 inch wide 1/8" thick by 6 foot long stips of aluminum right over the wet caulk. Now the road salt can't get at the steel and the aluminum looks great. I'm 76 years old and my Journey is 10 years old so we are in a race as to who rusts out first. I'm not betting on the Jouney.

Pine Tree

[Finhawk]

I used POR-15 on the three Studebakers that I restored. Believe me, it will stop rust!!! Spendy but well worth while.

[SCVJeff]

I did this just a week ago. I fiberglass brushed the entire area and primed it with RustOleum Rust Reformer, then topped it off with RustOleum Black Satin. If properly done, there is no way this will rust out again. This seems to be a common problem that's just poor prep.

[CJ7ole]

Quote:

fiberglass brushed

Please explain.

Quote:

Both times in the past I ground everything down to bare metal, primed it with RustOleum primer and did 2 topcoats of RustOleum Satin Black. Needless to say it hasn't performed as well as expected.

Quote:

topped it off with RustOleum Black Satin. If properly done, there is no way this will rust out again.

hmmm, seems to be a difference of opinion here.

[ischua]

PORs
get cheap brushes and toss when done
put some in a cup and DO NOT use direct from can any water even sweat will cause paint to set
POR has the consistency of water and splashes easily
Never get it on your skin use rubber gloves (it will take weeks to come off trust me I know )
This stuff does not like sunlight paint over it if exposed to sunlight

[SCVJeff]

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJ7ole Please explain. hmmm, seems to be a difference of opinion here.

Heavy duty Fiberglass grinding wheel just like a steel brush, but this one leaves no residue and I think it does a better job.

Difference in opinion? That's fine, but the bottom line is that you simply cannot say that it WILL rust again.There is zero difference between proper factory prep & paint, and doing it at home. If you don't do it correctly, of course it will rust as demonstrated by the lousy prep on the storage compartments: Lack of cleaning and lack of primer (ie- cheaping out). Once I've taken off anything that is loose I wipe it with Acetone and prime.

[smlranger]

I've had the rust problem too. I media blasted what I could and used Rustoleum Rust Reformer, followed by Rustoleum satin black professional paint. I've have no new rust since doing this 5 years ago.

[Hikerdogs]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCVJeff If properly done, there is no way this will rust out again. This seems to be a common problem that's just poor prep.

I disagree. Maybe one time lasts forever when you live in places where the roads aren't covered with snow and salted half the year. It's a whole different world slogging through the blizzards with a couple tons of salt/snow mix afixed to the body and frame and no place to wash it off because everything's frozen.

We've had the coach so covered with salt and road spray you couldn't see the graphics. More than once it looked like everything was painted with a whitewash brush. The last time it happened we drove through snow storms in Wisconsin and half way through Illinois. By the time we got to Kentucky most of the snow was gone but we couldn't wash off the salt until we got to Atlanta. What a mess.