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Old 09-18-2017, 05:32 PM   #1
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Plugged into shore power for 2-wks but chassis battery losing charge

On my last RV, a 30-amp Class C, I'm pretty sure the chassis battery would be charged along with the house batteries when plugged into shore power by the charger/converter.

So, we're sitting in our lovely forest campground with 50 amp power for the last 2-weeks and the chassis batter is down to 12.1 volts. So, It's obviously not being charged while we sit here. Also it seems the power shades and the power-tv lift is using the chassis battery because they are getting slower and slower.

I know I have a "power boost" switch on the dash - but is there anyway to get the coach to charge the chassis battery short of starting the RV??
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:38 PM   #2
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Plugged into shore power for 2-wks but chassis battery losing charge

My 01 Chieftain was the same. My Bounder did charge both .I used the toad to jump the chassis battery on the Chieftain a few times.
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:44 PM   #3
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This might be the easiest solution to your problem.

AMP-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer - Overview Page
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:12 PM   #4
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Our '03 does not charge the chassis battery when on shore power, only the coach batteries. Letting it drain down and jump starting is hard on the battery, it won't last long. The amp-l-start Jim mentioned is good option.
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:26 PM   #5
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Same here for our 2006 Sightseer. When it is parked I used a 5 watt solar charger plugged into a 12VDC receptacle that is connected to the chassis battery.
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:55 PM   #6
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I am of the understanding the newer Winnebago Coaches have a Trickle Start built in. The older ones like mine did not. I had to add my own. I recommend you call the Winnebago Help line at 800-537-1885 and ask them what should be happening with your newer coach.

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Old 09-18-2017, 08:58 PM   #7
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creativepart, your coach as a Battery Isolation Manager that will keep the chassis battery charged. What is the voltage reading on the coach battery? The coach battery has to be above 13.0VDC before the Battery Isolation Manager will charge the chassis battery. The TV and power shades run off the coach battery.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
On my last RV, a 30-amp Class C, I'm pretty sure the chassis battery would be charged along with the house batteries when plugged into shore power by the charger/converter.

So, we're sitting in our lovely forest campground with 50 amp power for the last 2-weeks and the chassis batter is down to 12.1 volts. So, It's obviously not being charged while we sit here. Also it seems the power shades and the power-tv lift is using the chassis battery because they are getting slower and slower.

I know I have a "power boost" switch on the dash - but is there anyway to get the coach to charge the chassis battery short of starting the RV??
creativepart,
Well Sir, this is not meant to be in any form, derogatory or, condescending in any way but, this is one of those things that it pays to really learn about your coach when you purchased it. Learning how your coach and chassis batteries charge, from any source, be it the engine alternator or, generator or shore power, is of prime importance. The reason, you already know, to be able to determine if and where, a problem lies. Now, with all that jargon being said, as Petro (Don) stated, it's highly possible that your coach might already have provisions in place for your chassis batteries to be charged while on shore power.

But, it may be that any of the components involved in that shore power chassis battery charging system, have failed. Telling you to run out and buy a an Amp-L-Start or, it's little brother, the Trik-L-Start or even a stand alone battery charger to solve your problem might be jumping the gun 'cause you may already have something that does the job but, it's either failed or, has a bad connection or connections or, who knows what?

As Don said, the older Winnes and Itascas like his and ours, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, did not come with any provisions to keep the chassis batteries charged, while on shore power. Almost all of us with those era coaches, have taken steps to remedy this issue.

Either take Dons suggestion and call Winne or, dig around in your books (if you have any) and see what, if any, components you already have that may, or may not supposed to be charging the chassis batteries while on shore power. These types of issues are fun for me. By the way, some history might help here. How long have you had this coach? If you've had it for a while and used it, have you had any issues with the chassis batteries loosing charge while on shore power or is this a new disorder?
Scott
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:49 PM   #9
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It may not be the correct thing to do . But I purchased a pre made cable at W M and attached it to the positive of both banks Easy to remove and both banks charge . Actually I have been leaving it on while driving also . Well some times
All batterys are in float mode when pluged to shore power .
IM open to opinions !
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Old 09-18-2017, 11:44 PM   #10
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Perhaps the solar cell (one hundred watt Zamp) on the roof is supposed to keep the chassis battery charged? Mine was not working properly and has been removed and sent back to Zamp for replacement.

I have a brand new coach. I have all the books and I've read them all twice. I'll take another look.

My house batteries are at 13.7 v but the chassis battery is reading 12.1 v. I know that's not good. I'll do some digging. I was hoping folks would say "It's easy just turn on....." But guess not.
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Old 09-19-2017, 02:18 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Journey cat View Post
It may not be the correct thing to do . But I purchased a pre made cable at W M and attached it to the positive of both banks Easy to remove and both banks charge . Actually I have been leaving it on while driving also . Well some times
All batterys are in float mode when pluged to shore power .
IM open to opinions !
Since there is a control to share the alternators charging with the house bank, AFTER the chassis battery is charged, the jumper isn't needed while driving.

Actually, the control delays connecting all the batteries together, so the chassis battery gets up to 13.5 volts and the electronic engine and transmission controls have the proper power first.

Placing your cable on, when all of the batteries are at a low state of charge can overload your alternator.

Find the isolator solenoid and test it, they fail often. It will clunk when you hit the boost switch, but not pass current thru, if bad.

Test for equal volts on boths big terminals on the sides when boost switch is held on.

It may looks like this.
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Old 09-19-2017, 02:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petro View Post
I am of the understanding the newer Winnebago Coaches have a Trickle Start built in. The older ones like mine did not. I had to add my own. I recommend you call the Winnebago Help line at 800-537-1885 and ask them what should be happening with your newer coach.

Don
At least on the Journey and Meridian, Winnebago didn't start adding battery cross charging until 2006, and it wouldn't be a surprise if the rest of the product line didn't get this upgrade at the same time. It's not a big deal to add
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:37 AM   #13
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Grant, in post #7, referred to the Battery Isolation Manager. Here is a link to the BIM product page. It has links to a brochure and a troubleshooting document.

Here is a link to the Winnebago wiring diagram set that shows where to find the BIM on your coach. See sheet 4 of that set.

After you've digested the information at these links, you may want to call Winnebago and ask them about the issue.
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:48 AM   #14
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My 2016 Winnebago does not have a two way charge relay it just has a dumb one that connects when ignition is on or the boost switch is pressed.

I added an Amp-L-Start to get the chassis to charge off house.

Winnebago probably does different things based on model, your Adventurer is higher end than my Vista so they might have put a more intelligent two-way relay. You need to verify since it may not be functioning correctly.
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