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Power Problems
Old 07-05-2010, 02:14 PM   #1
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I had really weak power in my garage where I plug my rig in. An old fuse box with a push button fuse that kept blowing when I ran my AC. Today I installed a new 100 amp service and a bona-fide 30 amp rv box. I think that the "30 amp breaker" was in fact a 60 amp (2 30s in tandem). I plugged the rig in, went inside and the control center had the 50 amp lite on, but nothing in the digital readout. I began to smell a burnt electrical odor and quickly unplugged the rig. The 15 amp breaker marked "refridge" on the 110 panel (inside rig) was tripped. I then plugged into one of my new 20 amp circuits and ran my AC without a hitch. The only thing NOT working now,is the DVD player (it worked fine before),and the digital tv converter keeps turning off. Also, the inverter lite doesn't come on at the switch by the dvd player. I know this is a long setup, but my question is could the burnt smell be the inverter and that is why my dvd won't come on? If so, how can I tell if that's the problem?

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Old 07-05-2010, 02:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monarchman53 View Post
Today I installed a new 100 amp service and a bona-fide 30 amp rv box. I think that the "30 amp breaker" was in fact a 60 amp (2 30s in tandem).
Lets backup a bit. You said installed 100amp service. I take it the service (sub)panel main breaker is 100amp? Off that service breaker are the circuit breakers for the service lines? That's fine.

The scary part is then you said a bona-fide RV 30amp plug and allude that the 30amp RV plug is fed by a tandem 30amp breaker. IF you are feeding a 30amp RV plug with a tandem breaker you have wired that RV plug at 240v. A bona-fide 30amp RV plug is 120v and requires a single breaker (or uses just half of a tandem). (a 50amp RV plug is typically 240v)

So, did you install a 50amp RV plug or a 30amp RV plug? Are you really feeding a 30amp RV plug with (both legs of) a tandem breaker thus making it 240v?

Please repost a little more detail or clarification. As written you fed your 120V 30amp RV cord with 240v when it should have been 120v. Yep, that'll do the type of damage you indicated.

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Old 07-05-2010, 02:30 PM   #3
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We're gonna hope you didn't fry your electronics with 240 Volts. Good luck!!
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:42 PM   #4
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Here is something you need to know. Hope the problems are few.
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Old 07-05-2010, 03:05 PM   #5
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wow I hope he didn't do what I think he did.
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Old 07-05-2010, 04:03 PM   #6
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A few months ago I was sitting around with a few friends talking about running a new power outlet to the rig, my friend said it would be a snap...just supply the beer and copper. He said all you had to do is use a drier outlet ...this is where it almost went south. I told him about the site "007" posted . After a few words about his knowing everything about electrical wiring, I dropped the idea . After reading that post and buying a couple hundred dollars of 4 wire 6 gauge cable and a new 50 amp rv box I went at it.

Some guys think they know it all...they are the ones that get burnt.
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Old 07-05-2010, 04:12 PM   #7
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So tallyriver, how's the juice?
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Old 07-05-2010, 04:18 PM   #8
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120 volts on each leg ,a neutral and a ground...runs the whole rig.
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Old 07-05-2010, 05:32 PM   #9
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120 volts on each leg ,a neutral and a ground...runs the whole rig.
ONLY ONLY ONLY for a 50amp plug! L1 - L2 - N - G

There is only ONE "leg" for a 30amp RV plug. L1 (or L2) - N - G
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Old 07-05-2010, 05:43 PM   #10
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How many times has this problem come up, a 30 amp rv plug wired for 220 volts?
Seems to me there needs to be some kind of warning on this site about this. Serious expensive damage has been done by owners and even experienced electricans improperly installing 30 amp rv plugs.
Greg
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Old 07-05-2010, 05:53 PM   #11
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I knew the minute I smelled something not right, I screwed up!! I know thats exactly what I did, wired it like a dryer (220). My confidence plus ignorance came together and made a mess and now I'm left to deal with the consequences. I'm not afraid to admit when I screw up, but I'm not one to dwell on my mistakes but would rather focus on how to fix them(and learn from them!). Does the DVD player work only through the inverter and if so is that why it won't power up? Also is there no protection from this kind of over voltage to the inverter? Does it sound like that's what I was smelling? And why was the only breaker that tripped was the fridge? By the way the fridge works fine. The only things I can detect that are not working properly are the DVD player won't power up, the digital tv converter won't stay on, it works fine but won't stay on for more than 20 or 30 seconds and the inverter light (at the on/off switch) won't come on.
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Old 07-05-2010, 05:54 PM   #12
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How many botched jobs have we not heard of because the outcome was deadly?
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Old 07-05-2010, 06:04 PM   #13
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I am sorry. Only you will be able to track down what was fried. Be prepared to open your wallet. I am truly sorry for you.
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Old 07-05-2010, 06:13 PM   #14
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Sorry about your problem.
Anything electronic is probably fried. Inverter, TV, microwave, etc. Each device should be removed from the MH and tested in a safe place. You don't want it catching fire in the MH. Some might be able to be repaired. At best maybe a blown fuse. At worse a new device is in order. Sometimes repair cost more than a new one.
Good luck,
Greg

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