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Progressive Industries Surge Protector
01-24-2011, 09:32 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Head of St Margarets Bay,NS,Canada
Posts: 172
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Hi,
I am planninmg on buying either the hardwired (EMS-LCHW50C) or portable (EMS-PT50C) version of the Progrssive industries version of surge protection.
My eyes are blurry from reading the many, many threads about the two options and have yet to decide which way to go - if I buy the portable device I will install it in my electrical compartment by adding a pigtail to the shore/generator switch.
If I go with the hard wired version, I would like to install the meter in my coach just below the control panel that contains tank monitors, thermostat, etc. If anyone has done this on a 05 Itasca Suncruiser 35U or similar Adventurer, can you advise me how you routed the cable from the electrical compartment to the control panle?
Thanks,
Preston
__________________
Apr 05 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on Dec 04 W22 Chassis
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01-24-2011, 12:48 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Way down yonder, below New Orleans
Posts: 3,958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prsmith
Hi,
I am planninmg on buying either the hardwired (EMS-LCHW50C) or portable (EMS-PT50C) version of the Progrssive industries version of surge protection.
My eyes are blurry from reading the many, many threads about the two options and have yet to decide which way to go - if I buy the portable device I will install it in my electrical compartment by adding a pigtail to the shore/generator switch.
If I go with the hard wired version, I would like to install the meter in my coach just below the control panel that contains tank monitors, thermostat, etc. If anyone has done this on a 05 Itasca Suncruiser 35U or similar Adventurer, can you advise me how you routed the cable from the electrical compartment to the control panle?
Thanks,
Preston
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I am a big fan of the Progressive products, having put one in our previous coach (HW50C), and have recently installed another hard-wired unit in the signature coach. I like the idea of having the unit out-of-sight in the electrical bay. In the old coach I installed it using short pigtails and 50 amp recepticals to create a quick and easy way of removing the unit from service in case it failed. I planned to do the new coach installation the same way, but the electrical bay proved to be too small to allow the additional connections.....so I installed the Progressive unit directly in the shore power feed to the transfer switch, as they recommend. I recently bought a "by-pass" device that can be retro-fitted to their hard wired units, but have yet to install it.
I think I'll just go with their portable 50 amp unit "next time" and use it at the park pedastle as designed.
Sorry I cannot help with you question about how to get the display from the Progressive unit to your "one place" panel.
ED
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Itasca SC 2010 37F on W-24 WB248" stock + plug wires vent kit added.
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01-24-2011, 02:05 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 544
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I have had the 30a. portable for about 2 years and it's worked great. I would advise this over hard wiring a unit in. I just use the metal piece on the pig tail of it to lock to the pedestal. The display is good to read there except in direct sun light. Also, you can take it with you when or if you buy a new rig. Also, I had to return the original because I thought it had a defect, but it didn't...The next one did the same thing and I found out there was a problem with the spot I was plugged in to. (Hz. exceeding 60). I moved and all has been normal since. BTW, when it detected this problem- the unit shut off power to the rv and then turned back on after about two minutes. This is what it was suppose to do. I like it a lot.
Drew
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01-24-2011, 04:35 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 422
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One alternative at about 1/8th the cost is the Intermatic Panel Guard which is what protects our house. It is not smart but it kills the spikes and surges. one will be going into our Teardrop working with the surge protection of the Progressive Dynamics converter.
How much do you need, really?
Note warranty covers only the surge protector NOT what is plugged into it and you are always better off having individual surge protectors protecting things like computers etc.
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01-24-2011, 05:22 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 201
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Preston,
I would advise against locating your surge protector inside your RV near your "one panel". Although I don’t know your exact coach layout, you will have to wire 4 wires (large diameter wires) from your transfer switch - to your "one place" - and back again to your transfer switch. If your transfer switch and one place are 10 feet apart, then you will add 20ft of wire. The voltage drop due to this extra length of wire will slightly reduce your A.C. voltage to your coach. Another potential issue is that you will be routing the unprotected shore power line deep inside your coach which is not as safe as locating the surge protection right at the point that the shore power line enters the coach. I used the hard-wired TRC Surge Guard M34560 available from camping world at $288.
One advantage of the portable Surge Guard is that you can by pass it to plug into shore power consisting of 1 30A outlet and 1 20A outlet, since the surge guard will consider this to be a fault. However, disconnecting it disables the surge protection you are trying to accomplish.
Check the following forum link for more info:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/surge-guard-50-amp-installation-10909.html
hope this helps,
jim & debbie, 04 Journey 34H
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01-24-2011, 05:31 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 137
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I've used mine for five years and two motorhomes - and wouldn't want it mounted inside. Why? Check this: LightCurve on the Road
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Fulltiming in a 2006 Ellipse 40FD
Our blog
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01-24-2011, 06:19 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 526
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Just a note of interest.
I have the portable 50amp model. and just used it this weekend.
One thing about it, It is sooo hard to disengage the 50amp. connector male going into the female one on the surge gaurd.
Actually this is true This morning as I broke camp to come home I had to use a screw driver to help pry the two connectors apart.
Other than than that its great. and yes I have applied dialectric grease to help out but in my case, and it may be rare, the two connectectors are sooo tight.
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2002 Winnebago Journey DL 34 ' Cat. 330 hp
Great wife and Charlie, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. TT/N
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01-24-2011, 06:56 PM
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#8
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Member
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 86
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I've got the 50a hard wired, yes my coach is different but; from electrical baggage compartment up between bedroom chest of drawers and toilet room chest of drawrs to washer dryer conection area for the monitor. Was pretty easy. Is around corner from main control panel. Easy to see and monitor.
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2006 WJourney, Roadmstr, 2007 Yukon, M&G Brake, KVH R6, Porta-Bote under.
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01-24-2011, 07:22 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Nor'easters Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MAINE
Posts: 891
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I finally flipped the switch, (no punn intended) and had the hard wired unit installed by Dale Sumner of Mobile RV Medic out of Dade City / Zephyrhills Fla. 352-567-6303.
I was very satisfied with Dale's knowledge of the Progressive product line, RV electrical construction and what should and should not be done with most installations.
I doubt he would mind me posting his contact info. I'm sure he would attempt to answer your questions if you called him.
No, I do not work for him or Progerssive. I'm just a satisfied customer.
 
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Tiffin Allegro Bus, Honda CRV, Tow-N-4 Down, US Gear Unified Tow brake, Blue-OX tow bar, Dually Valve stems, TST Monitors, No Kids-No Pets, Full Time Wanna Be
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01-24-2011, 08:00 PM
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#10
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prsmith
If I go with the hard wired version, I would like to install the meter in my coach just below the control panel that contains tank monitors, thermostat, etc. If anyone has done this on a 05 Itasca Suncruiser 35U or similar Adventurer, can you advise me how you routed the cable from the electrical compartment to the control panle?
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Preston, I have some pictures here for you to look at.
Mobile RV Medic's - Dale Sumner
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03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Allison UP Grade Brake, S&B CAI, Taylor Extremes, SGII-X Gauge
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
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01-24-2011, 10:11 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Texas Boomers Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 4,553
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I have had the portable PT-50C for 3 years. The first year was on a 5er. The last two were with the MH. That is one of the nice things about the portable, it is portable. Secondly, I have had two instances where it had to be repaired. The first was shortly after acquiring it. It just stopped working. No screws or straps to undo, just send it in and they sent a replacement. The second time there was a leak on the short pig tail and water got into it. They stated it was a bad seal. The resealed it and in both cases I had it back within 5 days.
As posted, it can be a devil to pull out of the coach connector, so I just leave mine plugged into the connector at all times. Even when it is in storage I have a 50 to 30 to 110v plugged into the PT-50C. All of it is still in the electrical bay when I am in storage except for the 12 amp, 110v cord to the plug outside. It is just always plugged into the connector. Also, as posted, I use the metal tab located on the pig tail and a chain wrapped around the pedestal. If someone wants it, they can get it, but it is a little more difficult. With pictures, I should be able to get the insurance company to kick in should it come up missing. I have never fear for something being missing in any of my travels.
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Wayne MSgt USMC (Ret)
2008 Destination 39W
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01-25-2011, 02:43 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: KAPOLEI, HAWAII AND VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON
Posts: 1,845
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i have had my progressive 50 amp portable for over 3 years and it works well. it cost me about $100. the connections are kinda tight. i plug it in at the pedestal. i make sure the power breaker is off before connecting or disconnecting the surge device or the moho shore power cable, so using a screwdriver is not a problem for me. i think this is somewhat of an unintended but welcome anti-theft feature.
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks
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01-25-2011, 03:47 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith K
I've used mine for five years and two motorhomes - and wouldn't want it mounted inside. Why? Check this: LightCurve on the Road
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Kieth,
Thanks- this is the first time I've seen this. Great point for keeping the unit outside when I read the article.
Drew
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01-25-2011, 04:51 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner Thor Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith K
I've used mine for five years and two motorhomes - and wouldn't want it mounted inside. Why? Check this: LightCurve on the Road
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Check www.djsafety.com
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Mike, Janet & Duchess (cavalier King Charles)
2008 35B windsport, Brazel's rear TracBar, Koni shocks & Safe T plus steering
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