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redux: full-length mud flap
11-28-2009, 11:20 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 200
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I know this has been discussed many times in the past but I can't find the exact thread I'm looking for.
We seem to have been getting a lot of pitting on our toad windshield and body from gravel and small rocks being kicked up. We've never used a cover or shield because of the initial trip we took doing so much small damage, we just figured we'd use a shield or protect-a-tow or something when we got a new toad or got the one we have repaired.
I know it's been concluded that the full-width optional guard that is hanging a few feet from the rear of the coach is probably doing more harm than good.
We are about to take a longer trip in probably bad weather ...does everybody think the guard should just be removed and thrown out? We are considering just taking it off entirely.
Those of you who do NOT have the full-width guard (taken it off), does your toad and rear cap of the coach get just as dirty and damaged than if you had a full-width guard?
We have a DP that has a shorter overhang than a gasser so I guess we're looking for responses from those who have a DP so the dynamic is the same.
Thanks!
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~~amanda
'07 Itasca Meridian, 34' 9"
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11-29-2009, 07:09 AM
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#2
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Community Administrator
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 13,890
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The problem occurs when the flap contacts the road, which kicks up stones.
I raised my flap so that it's about 6" above the road and I have never had a problem with stones being kicked up. My toad has no dings.
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Adios, Dirk - '84 Real Lite Truck Camper, '86 Wilderness Cimarron TT, '07 DSDP, '11 Virtual RV

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11-29-2009, 07:27 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amanda_h
I know this has been discussed many times in the past but I can't find the exact thread I'm looking for.
We seem to have been getting a lot of pitting on our toad windshield and body from gravel and small rocks being kicked up. We've never used a cover or shield because of the initial trip we took doing so much small damage, we just figured we'd use a shield or protect-a-tow or something when we got a new toad or got the one we have repaired.
I know it's been concluded that the full-width optional guard that is hanging a few feet from the rear of the coach is probably doing more harm than good.
We are about to take a longer trip in probably bad weather ...does everybody think the guard should just be removed and thrown out? We are considering just taking it off entirely.
Those of you who do NOT have the full-width guard (taken it off), does your toad and rear cap of the coach get just as dirty and damaged than if you had a full-width guard?
We have a DP that has a shorter overhang than a gasser so I guess we're looking for responses from those who have a DP so the dynamic is the same.
Thanks!
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Amanda,
I agree with Route 66 adust the flap to about 6 inches off the ground and all should be good.
__________________
Del & Lori & Millie, (our miniature Aussie) 2007 Diplomat 40PDQ - 2009 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, US Gear Unified Tow Brake.
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11-29-2009, 08:19 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,341
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Ditto 66. Same result even on Alaska roads. I set mine so it's about 4-5" off the road at ride height.
I have never understood why the factory sets them to graze the road surface.
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2007 and 7/8ths Newmar Essex 4502
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11-29-2009, 12:25 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVDude
Ditto 66. Same result even on Alaska roads. I set mine so it's about 4-5" off the road at ride height.
I have never understood why the factory sets them to graze the road surface.
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so they wear out and you buy a new one!!
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11-29-2009, 01:59 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeatherTodd
so they wear out and you buy a new one!! 
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Now that's a good one! It's probably true! Ya know, those things are not cheap!
To "raise" the height of the flap I removed the flap, took off the hardware, used the "newmar" metal stencil as a saw fence and actually cut, using an ordinary circular saw, some 3"-4" off the bottom of the plastic. Then laid everything in place, re-drilled the mounting holes, and screwed it all back together using stainless steel hardware. Sounds harder than it was. Did it on a picnic table at a CG. Took a couple hours only because of the copious use of beer and perquisite game breaks. I think I got the newmar right side up?
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2007 and 7/8ths Newmar Essex 4502
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11-29-2009, 02:16 PM
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#7
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Community Administrator
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 13,890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVDude
Now that's a good one! It's probably true! Ya know, those things are not cheap!
To "raise" the height of the flap I removed the flap, took off the hardware, used the "newmar" metal stencil as a saw fence and actually cut, using an ordinary circular saw, some 3"-4" off the bottom of the plastic. Then laid everything in place, re-drilled the mounting holes, and screwed it all back together using stainless steel hardware. Sounds harder than it was. Did it on a picnic table at a CG. Took a couple hours only because of the copious use of beer and perquisite game breaks. I think I got the newmar right side up?
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Same here.
Moved the SS logo strip up as high as I could and cut off the newly exposed black plastic at the bottom.
__________________
Adios, Dirk - '84 Real Lite Truck Camper, '86 Wilderness Cimarron TT, '07 DSDP, '11 Virtual RV

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11-29-2009, 05:13 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shadow Hills,CA 91040
Posts: 1,940
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I have found that the fancy one with the stainless steel logo looks great but does not work. The stones go over, under and around it. I tried moving it toward the rear but no improvment. I finally got a Rock Solid stone guard from Camping World, made my own steel square tubing mounting bracket at the rear of the MH with NO GAPS and that works. Leave some room at the bottom for the stones to escape and it should work fine.
__________________
04 Itasca, Meridian 34H, 330 Cat/2003 CR V Toad
1933 Ford 3 Window,as seen in Bye Bye Birdie
Pvt. E1 Retired, Shadow Hills,Ca.
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11-29-2009, 07:08 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Beaufort SC/ Harmony PA
Posts: 221
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When we got our '06 Saturn Vue I made up my mind we would not replace the windshield because of stone chips from the MH.
Went to the local auto shop that does reupholstery (sp?) work and had a windshiels cover made for $100.00.
Make a cover the size of the windshield out of canvas. Add backing and filler to give it some strength. Light canvas wil NOT work! Use a lighter backing that will not scratch the windshield.
At the top put a strap on each side that you run through the car interior and pulls tight with a slip buckle.
On the bottom add 4/5 straps that extend to the firewall and are held in place with male snaps on the straps and female snaps on the firewall. There was a reason for this setup- you can't pry off a female snap very easy and when they are new they hold very well.
The cover has held up quite well and after traveling through MT,WY and the Dakotas last summer I feel it has allready paid for itself.
If anyone wants more details PM me.
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Lee,Marge Living Our Dream-Fulltiming!
Beaufort SC, Winter Harmony PA Summer
Semper Fi In God We Trust
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11-30-2009, 07:53 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shadow Hills,CA 91040
Posts: 1,940
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Before I put on the rock guard I also made a windshield cover. I got a piece of anti slip matting, (the kind with all the little foam beads) cut a piece tall enough to cover the windshield and wide enough to close in the door jambs. Cheap, lightweight, can be used as antislip mat in back of your vehicle when not on the windshield. It worked great. The reason I went with the rock guard was that I was just trying to find a solution that didn't require an extra step when hooking up plus the rock guard also protects the headlights.
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04 Itasca, Meridian 34H, 330 Cat/2003 CR V Toad
1933 Ford 3 Window,as seen in Bye Bye Birdie
Pvt. E1 Retired, Shadow Hills,Ca.
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