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Old 12-02-2017, 07:54 AM   #15
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Thanks so much to all of you for your inputs. Between all of them I can see I can do this chore myself. Also viewing the photos from the link Jim HiTek provided I see each motorhome is a little different, my tank is a little more hidden than the one in the link photos, but those photos did teach me some also. Tomorrow is Sunday, so I may have to do some repenting for some words I may say today!! I know its not going to be a fun job!
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:30 AM   #16
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Thanks so much to all of you for your inputs. Between all of them I can see I can do this chore myself. Also viewing the photos from the link Jim HiTek provided I see each motorhome is a little different, my tank is a little more hidden than the one in the link photos, but those photos did teach me some also. Tomorrow is Sunday, so I may have to do some repenting for some words I may say today!! I know its not going to be a fun job!
erniet,
Well Sir, it's going to be a fun job, a bit of sarcasm there Sir. I did mine about 5 years ago and, well, Winne and Itasca did not make these coaches for us end-users to work on them. I removed my bedding, the bed platform and, both steel engine covers to do mine. That way, I could gain as much possible access to each and every nut and bolt, hose, retainer and more that had anything to do with that tank. The two side bolts are by far, the tough ones to mess with.

It always cracks me up when folks say they replaced theirs with a steel tank. TWO DIFFERENT TANKS! As of yet, I've seen no steel or aluminum EXACT replacement for the rear radiator, Freightliner chassis surge tank that is very common in many of our coaches. Our coach sits in it's own RV garage when it's not in use so, the sun only sees that tank, when we're traveling. So far, after about 5 years on the replacement tank, it looks pretty good with no signs of weather cracking. We'll see how long it lasts.

I'm gonna be pulling the radiator and CAC this coming January to do some needed maintenance so, I'll get a better and closer look at mine. I may still some day, TIG weld up an Aluminum one to replace that plastic one. THAT would be a fun project.
Scott
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:39 AM   #17
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Thanks so much to all of you for your inputs. Between all of them I can see I can do this chore myself. Also viewing the photos from the link Jim HiTek provided I see each motorhome is a little different, my tank is a little more hidden than the one in the link photos, but those photos did teach me some also. Tomorrow is Sunday, so I may have to do some repenting for some words I may say today!! I know its not going to be a fun job!
If you can, please take some pics of the job as it progresses. THANKS!

I'm down here in Mexico and I expect to be able to find someone to do the job for me for $15 to $25 per hour. I'm just not willing to climb all over an engine doing mechanics work any more.
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:39 PM   #18
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Jim, I'm taking pictures but slooooow progress. I in process of cutting the tank apart. I would guess at least 40% of mine in under the floor in the closet beyond the opening of the inspection panel. I'm not using a sawsall, I'm using a Craftsman multipurpose saw. Like someone said there's a lot of 'stuff' there and I don't want to cut the wrong thing. I haven't used too many bad words but my knees sure hurt!
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:49 AM   #19
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Freightliner surge Tank

Me too on the "Please take photos of the radiator removal" !
I replaced the surge tank a few years ago, and it was one of those @#$% tasks! But, it is doable using common hand tools.

I plan to remove the radiators for cleaning and belt, belt tensioner replacement soon, so photos & tips would be appreciated!
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:04 PM   #20
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Me too on the "Please take photos of the radiator removal" !
I replaced the surge tank a few years ago, and it was one of those @#$% tasks! But, it is doable using common hand tools.

I plan to remove the radiators for cleaning and belt, belt tensioner replacement soon, so photos & tips would be appreciated!
RedT,
If you read my earlier post here in this thread, you'll see what steps I had to go through to remove and replace mine. Yes, it's a bit more work but, there are bolts, hoses and sensor wires that are accessed from behind that tank, NOT in front. So, gaining access to the rear, by removing whatever is needed, i.e. bedding, engine covers etc., you'll be swearing much less. I know, I did it that way and, like you, I'm gonna do it again after the first of the year. I'm gonna pull both the Radiator and the CAC for inspection and, replace anything I can while all that is out.
Scott
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:02 PM   #21
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Just to let everyone know I am doing something! The saw I'm using works but D___ slow. I got approx. 1/3 out tonight and then my phone/camera was dead, so not photos tonight. I think if you had a small sawzall it would help. Mine is so big I was scared what else I might damage, I'd rather go slow and not cut the wrong thing.
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:26 PM   #22
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Take your time.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:53 PM   #23
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New surge tank installed!!!!

Job completed! I tried doing this job completely by myself. Due to lengths of motorhomes and designs the floor opening the side dimensions are different between models. Only 1/2 of my surge tank can be seen through the closet floor opening (see photo). I only had 5/8" between tank mounting support and the insulation on the RH side (see photo). I tried my best to reach the front RH mounting bolt's nut from the opening in the closet floor, but could not reach it, nor could I figure out how to reach the RH rear cap screw nut. So I cut the tank in 2 pieces. I still needed another person to help with the RH front mounting bolt! Now the details for the RH side. One person from the rear of coach with a long 9/16" open end wrench holds the front cap screw while the guy on the inside uses a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the nut, mine was a lock nut. Since I cut the right rear corner of my old tank off I got the RH rear bolt out myself.

Installation of new tank wasn't that bad, learned a lot from the removal of old tank, I got a good helper! I threaded some internal toothed lock washers on the RH mounting cap screws. We snugged the front RH cap screw first Then snugged the 2 LH cap screws. Then we installed the RH rear cap screw. See photos for the tools used for installing the RH rear nut to the cap screw. Actually all the socket did was place the lock nut in position while the second person used long open end 9/16" wrench to turn the bolt.

To do it all over again, which I hope I never have to do. I would not need to cut the tank apart and just resort to getting one more person to help. By the way the only place my tank was deteriorating was the back rear side facing the rear of the coach, worst area was under the filler cap and just to the right of it. This coach is stored inside an enclosed shed since I owned it except when I'm using it. I do have 100,000 miles on the unit so it does get outside some.
I made notes on my photos, but if you need more input feel free to ask.
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