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Old 06-16-2017, 01:06 PM   #1
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Resealing my roof edges

So, now that I got the flat part of the roof cleaned (see my video) and re-waxed with Zep (one coat over a previous four coats) and I have completed my clearcoat job Clear coating my 2002 Adventurer I needed to clean up the roof radii where they meet the walls. It turned out quite easy working from my rolling scaffold and just using lacquer thinner as it melted the Zep wax quite easily. The picture below shows where I just tried sanding the radii, I will post another pic when I do the other side to show how easy the lacquer thinner removes the wax. Heavy kitchen style rubber gloves work much better than thin nitrile gloves which tend to get soft and tear. But in doing so, I could see the roof seal to the awning extrusion was starting to open up when I pushed on the roof. Having heard horror stories of the roof peeling back while driving in a heavy wind, I decided it was time to reseal it. After all, I have had the rig for 9 years and have never attended to that item.

Tools for the job included a sharpened (very sharp) putty knife, a utility knife with both standard and hook blades, 80 grit sandpaper, a razor blade scraper and a hook style seal remover. A rolling scaffold and a compressed air gun along with some lacquer thinner and paper towels completed the kit.

I did a test with a 3 foot section near the back then ran to the RV supplier to get the sealant. All they carried was NovaFlex silicone. No thanks, so I went to HD across the street and picked up a tube of DynaFlex 800 to close it before it rained. I will leave that in place and check it in a few years to see how it compares. Meanwhile Monday afternoon I ordered three tubes of the Manus-Bond from Lichtsinn and got it on Wednesday using standard shipping. Getting embarrassing that Lonnie in parts knows my name now I have ordered so often from them.
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Old 06-16-2017, 06:36 PM   #2
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Great thread! I'm thinking maybe I should take a look at mine also. I keep it inside, but have only had it a little over a year now. It was outside before that and some of the clear-coat is peeling along the top side where it rolls up to the roof. I need to make up a scaffold set-up to work on it. Awkward working from a ladder and don't like the idea of doing it from the roof top.
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Old 06-16-2017, 07:03 PM   #3
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Did the seals on my 05 Adventurer this week. PO did not pay attention to this and thankfully this site showed me how to check it and redo! I used Manus-Bond after spending most of the time prepping the joint. As OP did, I used a plastic scraping tool, mineral spirits, and really cleaned out the channel. Each side of my 38R took about one tube of the Manus-Bond.
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Old 06-16-2017, 09:12 PM   #4
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As I remove the old seal material, I am thinking it might be the original material and just appears like a silicone? Finished it this afternoon, cleaning the radius as I went. If I had used the Manus-Bond for the whole 33 foot rig, I would have just gotten into the third tube. As-is I now have an unopened spare. First pic shows the old seal on the left with the new one on the right. Long shot shows how well the radius and the extrusion cleaned up.

I took at least two passes with the caulking, the first to get it deep in the crack the last pass(es) to level it out enough to do the finger thing. It really drys fast where it feathers out, so, yes, it isn't the easiest caulk to use. But I have used much worse.

Buying a baker's rolling scaffold from HD at about $200 was definitely worth while, as I used it over the three weeks it took to prep and spray the clear coat and to do the roof sealing job. Would have been twice that to rent it. While I could sell it on CL, I will keep it in the family as my son and I do a lot of remodeling.

Oops, I am not done, I need to break out the Zep and wax the roof radii. Rats...
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'84 CJ-7 , 5.3 Chevy, 3" lift, 33's, Detroit Locker, Fiberglas tub, winch, hi-lift
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Old 06-17-2017, 08:10 AM   #5
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How long of a section did you do at a time? I was thinking that I would have to do it all at once. How about along the area above the awning?
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Old 06-17-2017, 09:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unplanned View Post
How long of a section did you do at a time? I was thinking that I would have to do it all at once. How about along the area above the awning?
My rolling scaffold is six feet long, so I did about seven feet at a time. Probably 30 minutes per section. Two to two and a half hours per side. Depends on how demanding you are about removing all of the old adhesive. I found it almost impossible to get it all. Same above awning, no issues there.
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Old 06-19-2017, 04:32 PM   #7
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Thanks for posting this. I bet this is the issue that is causing leaking on the left side of my (new to me) 96 Adventurer. I know both of the PO (they are family) so I can follow up to see if the roof was resealed recently or at all!
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:46 PM   #8
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It is advisable to check the side seals and the front and rear end cap seals at least once a year. If you have never done the side seals on your RV, it is advisable to reseal both sides front to back. Paying attention to the front and rear end cap seals, make sure there are no cracks in the sealant. Clean and reseal any areas that are cracked. Also check the area of the front end cap that goes down the sides above the front side windows. keeping this area sealed will avoid water leaks on the front passenger sidewall and the drivers side as well. Another area to reseal is the front and rear clearance light lenses.
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:16 PM   #9
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Very informative post.
I had my edge seam sealed last year at a RV repair place. I don't know what product they used but I noticed it is already cracked all the way from front to back on both sides.
I am trying to get it in to them so they can tell what is wrong and what they can/will do about it.

One thing I am curious about: the video says to use Manus Bond -75 for unpainted roofs but just ordinary Roof and Gutter silicon for painted roofs (which I have). Does anyone know why the difference?
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Old 06-22-2017, 05:48 PM   #10
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Very informative post.
...One thing I am curious about: the video says to use Manus Bond -75 for unpainted roofs but just ordinary Roof and Gutter silicon for painted roofs (which I have). Does anyone know why the difference?
Wayne
The explanation I heard was that the clear silicone is used because it won't detract, or cover up, the existing full body paint which goes all the way up and over the edge of the roof.
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Old 06-22-2017, 06:40 PM   #11
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It's actually not silicon. I used Henry HE212 from Home Depot which is an elastic material that is supposed to be the US version of KOP-R-LASTIC made in Canada. I think it's a type of urethane. I think they used silicon in the video interchangeably with caulk. Kind of like Kleenex for all types of tissue.
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Old 06-22-2017, 06:42 PM   #12
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BTW, CJ7ole, does that pressure surface cleaner do any damage to the fiberglass? That looks like an easy way to clean the roof.
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Old 06-22-2017, 07:26 PM   #13
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Urethane vs Silicon

Great post CJ7ole! I had a look at my side seams yesterday and they look good so far. When I do have to do them, I'm thinking of trying urethane instead of silicon. I just used some to glue the 150 watt solar panel to my roof. That stuff REALLY sticks! It's the same as is used to glue windshields into cars. Have to work fast and mask all along, but if I can get it in there, I'm sure it will be permenant! What do you think?
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:58 AM   #14
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BTW, CJ7ole, does that pressure surface cleaner do any damage to the fiberglass? That looks like an easy way to clean the roof.
No damage. I keep it flat on the roof and keep it moving, not allowing it to go over the sealant or to stay in one place too long. The pros I have used while in FL pressure wash all of the RV rigs they wash and wax, but they don't use the rotary cleaner attachment. Only problem I have had with them is blasting water into the basement A/C and messing up the electronics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unplanned View Post
Great post CJ7ole! I had a look at my side seams yesterday and they look good so far. When I do have to do them, I'm thinking of trying urethane instead of silicon. I just used some to glue the 150 watt solar panel to my roof. That stuff REALLY sticks! It's the same as is used to glue windshields into cars. Have to work fast and mask all along, but if I can get it in there, I'm sure it will be permanent! What do you think?
Don't use silicone, you want an urethane type of caulk. If you are going to do it, do it right and get the Manus-Bond 75AM. It is an industrial grade adhesive/sealant. Only place I could find it was at Lichtsinn, even Amazon was out of stock.

I have used the black 3M windshield urethane stuff and it is amazing, but around $20 per tube and you need a high leverage caulk gun to get it to squirt out. And don't get it on your hands. Used it for sealing my leaky windshield.
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