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Old 08-03-2010, 10:23 AM   #1
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Roof air addition to basement air

Those of you that have added a roof unit to supplement cooling with basement air. We are looking to add one to our 04 Horizon 40AD. We would like to replace the Fantastic Vent in the kitchen area. Where did you get the 110 volts to operate the unit? Did you use the 12 volt wiring and if so how did you locate the wires at the supply end? May be you have more detail. Look forward to your comments.
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:09 AM   #2
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We add a roof top AC unit - page 1
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Old 08-04-2010, 06:58 AM   #3
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This is a good job.

Thank you so much. You did a lot of work to prepare this, but great job. I have a spare breaker in our panel. I replaced our frig with a 19cuft kenmore residential unit and put that circuit on the inverter. Best thing we've done. Adding the roof A/C will be next. Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:10 AM   #4
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Robert, I am thinking about changing my fridge to a residential also and have the same coach as you do. Could you do a new post with some details of the change over. Also your experience since the change. Are you still on the Dimensions 2000 inverter with the original battery setup? What fridge did you install?
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:06 PM   #5
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Robert, I would also like to see a picture of your conversion to a home refer.
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Old 07-02-2011, 10:19 PM   #6
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Supplemental Roof a/c 2004 Horizon 40AC

This spring we purchased a 2004 Horizon 40AC, and I'm preparing to install a supplemental roof air, much as you did. I've reviewed and appreciated your pics and details documenting your install. However, I want to keep the Fantastic fan in the kitchen, so I plan to locate the a/c farther forward thru a new hole in the area where the middle of the three ceiling lights exists. The ceiling assembly from Coleman is about 1" longer than the existing light hole, so cosmetically it should look 'factory'. Winnebago supplied me with engineering drawings of the roof structure, and along with a stud finder and some probing I appear to have an area clear of obstacles approx. 48" long front to rear between the metal roof supports. I purchased the Coleman Mach 3 P.S., which appears to weigh a little less than your unit, about 80 lbs. The instructions recommend fitting blocking(1x3) in the new 14x14 opening between the two layers of plywood forming the roof/ceiling structure. Specifically I'd like to install a condensation drain hose thru the coach roof rather than draining over the roof. I'm thinking I could run a drain hose alongside the 115 volt electrical supply thru the ceiling ductwork and back down the One Place utility wall and drain outside somewhere under the shower area. It looks like a 5/8" i.d. hose would be necessary to fit over the discharge. Curious if you have any comments/suggestions on the advisability of my drain plan.
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Old 07-03-2011, 05:45 AM   #7
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I also replaced the kitchen vent with a 13.5k btu Colman Mach. One of the best things I have done. I poked a small hole in the foam roof insulation to the AC duct on the driver side of the coach. It terminates right at the edge of the one place panel. I drilled a 2" hole there and another 2" hole right along the edge of the bathroom wall. I fished the wire from the AC duct to the hole by the bathroom wall and dropped it down the wall.

I figure that the day I need the supplemental AC is not going to be the day that I need the engine heater so I wired the AC unit in parallel with the engine heater. I also moved the engine heater circuit breaker from leg 1 in the breaker panel to leg 2.

Once I fixed the unrelated transfer switch problem, the unit has been trouble free and really cools down the coach.

Another word of advice. I am not sure how your coach is set up, but the one-place panel in mine had no insulation behind it. When driving down the road, the thermostat would read 95° when it was only in the high 70s or 80s. I stuffed a little insulation in there and now it reads high 70s. It's still a couple of degrees high. One of my todos is to take the panel out one more time and do a better job on the insulation. The time I worked on it, I didn't have any fiberglass and used a moving blanket.

I have removed the one-place panel so many times that one of the screws has stripped threads. That also on my todo list to fix that.
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:47 PM   #8
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We were having a hard time cooling our 40 ft Vectra, so I added a free standing portable A/C unit, 12000 BTU's. When we don't use it, we roll it in the bedroom, below the rear TV, when the slide comes in, it dosen't move at all. When we are using., I vent it out the small sliding window by the passenger front seat. I do have to drain the water out every day, but it sure keeps the coach cool. When we were in Houston in June, 98 degrees, the coach stayed around 75 to 78, before we would have been 85 and higher inside. I have pulled the A/C unit twice, changed to bearings and cleaned the coils, taped the ducts, I found out about the new quieter blower afterwards, plan to do that next time I pull unit. The temperature of air coming out the A/C ducts was right at 60 degrees. The price of a unit like this is less than $500, and no installation.
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Old 07-04-2011, 07:34 AM   #9
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I have a similar one - it is the Sharp brand - works very well is is quiet. I bought it at Costco. It pulls a lot of moisture out of the air. I have a container to catch the water and have to empty it often.
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