Roof joints and other issues

[mrschwarz]

I was browsing the Winnebago site a few days ago and I read a bulletin that I should be inspecting the roof seams and joints twice a year. I have never done it before and didn't know I was supposed to be doing it.

We had a bit of weather this past week and a couple of branches fell off a neighboring tree onto the roof. I was out of town so my wife and daughter had to go up on the roof to clear a couple of medium sized branches from it. I got home on Friday night. On Saturday, I went up on the roof to make sure there was no damage from the branches.

While I was up there I took a look at the roof seams. What I found surprised me. It looks the seam between the front cap and roof could stand to be resealed. Also, there are gutters that run the length of the coach on each side. There is a caulk joint that runs along the top of the gutter. On the driver side of the coach, I have a living room slider. Above the slider, the caulk line is cracked and needs to be resealed.

Also, there is a small section on each side of the roof that is painted the same color as the sides. The rest of the roof is white. On the painted sections, there are small hairline cracks in the paint. Is this something to worry about?

I am looking for some recommendations for sealing the seam along the gutters and the roof caps. I can seal them using Winnebago's recommendations, but I am wondering if there is a way that will make them last more than a couple of years.

How do I do this?

[LK23]

As I posted in the other forum, you need to use Winnie approved Thermoplastic sealant. I have several extra tubes. If you are interested, send me a PM.

[AFChap]

The side seams at the gutters are the critical ones. If cracks are visible, or the roof can be pushed inward to reveal cracks in the caulk, it needs to be replaced. The worse case scenario of ignoring the side roof seams is that eventually the roof fiberglass can come out of the groove while driving and peel the roof off like a sardine can ...pretty ugly.

I check ours 2 or 3 times a year, and have cleaned and redone the roof to cap seals around the curve of the roof cove a few times. I normally have the side gutter seams checked and repaired as needed by a dealer service department once a year. Sometimes the repair requirement is minimal, other times it may be $500. Some owners have replaced the side sealant and then covered it with Eternabond tape believing it will last indefinitely.

The paint cracking a bit on the roof cove isn't normally a big deal, but many have had problems with the Clearcoat peeling on the roof cove and along the top of the front and/or rear caps. It seems to be worse on darker paint. We had our front cap above the windshield, and both roof coves re-painted under warranty. On close inspection, the new paint shows some minute cracks particularly where the paint seems to be heavier, but the problem is not visible from the ground and has not got any worse than when I first noticed it several years ago.

[bruceh]

I just stopped by the Winnebago factory for a tour and was parked next to a with a 2002 33 something. His roof had come completely off and during the repaird some critical electrical cable was damaged. He went to the factory for a fix.

Check that caulk!

[lavamanz]

can someone post a few photos of a before and after reseal of this area on your coach? I have a 99 Itasca and yes you can press on the fiberglass side panel where it meets the channel creating a gap of about 1/8". I do not see caulk in the area of the channel though.

[AFChap]

Quote:

can someone post a few photos

I recommend you go to the collection of Winnebago Service tips on the Winnebago website at Service: Service Tips and you will find a Roof to Sidewall Joint Sealing tipsheet in the 2010 section near the top of the page. While you are there, I'm sure you will find other Service Tips you might want to download too!

[CJ7ole]

I checked mine recently and the side seal seam caulking looks almost like new. I don't believe the PO resealed them. It makes me nervous though when I read about a total separation and roof failure while on the road in a 2002 33 footer like mine.

[Clay L]

This is a cross section picture of the roof that might be helpful.

[mrschwarz]

Thanks for the drawing. The cross section explain why there is so much heat between the roof and sidewall.

[movin-on]

Use Eternabond and be done with it...I applied it 8 years ago on my 02 Horizon and it is still holding...Had a full body paint job done over a year ago...The paint shop painted over the Eternabond ...No problems so far...

[mrschwarz]

Caulked it this time. Most likely Eternabond next time.

[swreeder70]

So I pickup our "new" 2007 adventurer this week. First task I will probably perform is to redo the gutter seams.

Winnebago recommended a product called Kop-r-lastic from the Canadian based company Henry. Kop-R-Lastic is not sold in the US, so I contacted Henry.

They recommended the US version of this product called HE212. You can buy it at Home Depot in clear for about 9 bucks a tube. Data sheet attached for reference.

Once that job is done, I plan on covering with Eternabond. Found the best price at this place and they sell it in a few colors. Best Materials LLC - Discount Roofing Materials, Roofing Supplies, Roofing Products, Eternabond, Fasteners, Vents, Waterproof Coatings, Safety Products

75 bucks for 100' of 2" black seems like a great price to eliminate future headaches.

So for less than 100 dollars total I should have a very good seam and seal for many years to come.

[movin-on]

Quote:

Originally Posted by swreeder70 So I pickup our "new" 2007 adventurer this week. First task I will probably perform is to redo the gutter seams. Winnebago recommended a product called Kop-r-lastic from the Canadian based company Henry. Kop-R-Lastic is not sold in the US, so I contacted Henry. They recommended the US version of this product called HE212. You can buy it at Home Depot in clear for about 9 bucks a tube. Data sheet attached for reference. Once that job is done, I plan on covering with Eternabond. Found the best price at this place and they sell it in a few colors. Best Materials LLC - Discount Roofing Materials, Roofing Supplies, Roofing Products, Eternabond, Fasteners, Vents, Waterproof Coatings, Safety Products 75 bucks for 100' of 2" black seems like a great price to eliminate future headaches. So for less than 100 dollars total I should have a very good seam and seal for many years to come.

2" x 50' black for 28.15 here....

RoofSeal Black | RoofingSupplyUSA.com

[FDchief]

Congratulations on discovering the elusive roof seal maintenance woes. Not sure why Winnebago engineered this type of joint between the roof and the side wall. Probably had something to do with the flexing of the roof and the sealant allows for that.

In any case, the sealant required for the job is a polyurethane. DO NOT use silicone. I had issues finding the Henry's Kop-R-Plastic at my local Lowes or Home Depot, but ended up using PL400 Polyurethane door and window sealant. You will probably need a clear if you have full body paint. Preparation is everything. Be sure to clean out the sealant you are replacing. You don't have to replace it all unless your overly anal. You can easily check what needs to be done by examining the whole roof closely, and pushing in on the fiberglass where it joins the wall. If the caulking gives on either side showing an opening, then it must be replaced. Prior to applying the new sealant clean the area well with some mineral spirits or acetone. I run painters tape along the roof next to the area to be filled to keep the job neat. This stuff is hard to clean up, so you don't want to be slinging it just anywhere. Once done remove the tape and let her dry. A professional job!

I bought the 2" Eternabond to do as many has stated. But to me, there just doesn't seem to be enough meat below the channel to apply the tape too. So I elected just to reseal as necessary. I still have the tape for roof emergencies

As far as the spider web cracking, not much you can do about that. Fiberglass is notorious for it. It is not about to fail on you, just aesthetics.

Winnebago did a lousy job on many of their clear coat applications. Basically not enough, and it wears through. I have redone mine with good success over the windshield and under it. I use Dupli-color Automotive Clear Coat in the can. Worked awesome. Good luck with your task at hand. Remember, it is a labor of love