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Old 07-20-2011, 02:34 AM   #15
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When I needed to caulk the roof seams on my previous RV, a 2003 Horizon, I did extensive research on the caulk, and what to use.

The Winnebago tech told me that the reason the roof seams aren't sealed with something like eternabond tape, is that the joints move a bit with the structure. And because of the movement, the joints should be inspected periodically and touched up as needed. Using tape as a seal would be harder to inspect for future problems. At least that is what was said.

I ended up with a 3M adhesive that I found in my local ACE hardware store, and have also seen it in a NAPA store. As far as I know, there is a slow cure (7-day, the factory uses) and the fast cure (24 hours) that I used. It is fairly thick, and when cured is very tough. Sort of like the rubber you would have on a tennis shoe sole.

3Mô Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200, you can find the specs on the 3M web site.

Even as an old guy crawling around on the roof, I did a fairly extensive re-caulking job on the front seam in about an hour, and never had any leaks after that. I still have half the $17 small tube that I bought.
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
I guess that I wasn't really clear about my point. It seems that RV repair shops and at least one Winnebago dealer are doing the job wrong using incorrect materials.

I am sold on Eternabond after reading about it in this forum, it arrived yesterday.

As for myself, I wanted a good base before I did the Eternabond. Paranoid, I guess. Phase I of the job was removing all of the old caulk, cleaning the channels, inserting the screen spline, and recaulking. Phase II is Eternabond on the roof seams.
bruceh, if you're going to use Eternabond on the roof-to-sidewall seam, I don't think you need to clean out the old sealant out of the groove. I think structurally you'd have more strength with some adhesive down in the joint.....since Eternabond just lays over the surface. Then you'd have the best of both worlds.

You're right on many the dealer service centers using the wrong sealer. My coach was delivered with a couple of cracks in the fiberglass where it curves along the edge. The service guys used silicone over about a 4 ft run along the seal....OMG!!! what a pain it has been to try to get the proper sealer to stick there. The urethane lets loose after about 6 months. So I have just accepted water seepage in that area, and it comes out the weep hole.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:17 PM   #17
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Just out of curiosity, if Eternabond is really that good ,why does it have to be sealed with Dicor? If Eternabond will last forever as you indicate, why is it that no one uses the material for for entire roofs?
I use Eternabond but have never used anything to seal the Eternabond edges and never had a problem. Eternabond is the ONLY way to go and will last longer than the Motorhome. Camping World sells a Dicor tape similar to Eternabond but I wouldn't use it. It could be great but I know how Eternabond works and I'll stick with that.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:39 PM   #18
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I use Eternabond but have never used anything to seal the Eternabond edges and never had a problem. Eternabond is the ONLY way to go and will last longer than the Motorhome. Camping World sells a Dicor tape similar to Eternabond but I wouldn't use it. It could be great but I know how Eternabond works and I'll stick with that.
How long have you been using Eternabond and how is it you know it will outlast the motorhome?
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Old 07-21-2011, 04:14 PM   #19
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......It could be great but I know how Eternabond works and I'll stick with that.
"..and I'll stick with that." Was that pun intended???
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:03 PM   #20
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How long have you been using Eternabond and how is it you know it will outlast the motorhome?
I have been using Eternabond for about 6 years and mostly on RV roofs that stay outside in the California sun and still show no signs of deterioration. As far as outlasting your Motorhome, that was a wild guess !
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"..and I'll stick with that." Was that pun intended???
I actually thought about that and then decided to let it go.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:00 PM   #21
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Winnebago Service Center Parts department sold me the Stone & Mason Sealant. I thought it was to darn expensive at $18 a tube. I used 3/4 tube on the trim ridge at bottom slide height. Cleaned according to technicians recommendation using Lacquer Thinner. No ill affects.
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Old 07-23-2011, 02:57 PM   #22
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I have worked in the meraine industry. on boats resin/fiberglass; when i resealedthe roof on our vectra and the ultimate i went to the boat shop and asked them for the best they have.
I told them of the application they gave me the good stuff;;; If it's good enough for my boat it's good enough for my motorhome;;; boat yard sir.
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:13 AM   #23
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My gutter to roof seams need recaulking but I seem to have run into a little problem. The coach has a passenger side slide out that required the patio awning to be installed above the gutter. There is no way to get a caulking gun , or probably even a tube, between the awning rail and the seam. Other than taking the awning down, and that isn't going to happen, I see no choice but to use Eternabond there and, I guess if I'm going to use it for half of one side, I might as well do the whole thing. Looks as if grey would match up pretty well.
Anyone else done a seam, with the awning above, that might have a pointer or two?
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:21 AM   #24
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Regarding 3M 5200 adhesive/caulk, it is "permanent" and extremely difficult (read near impossible) to remove. I have used it on the cap/roof seam of my previous class C and it did an excellent job. It is much stronger than anything Winnebago uses. It is really a marine sealent - one of the very extensive 3M line which includes sealents that are easier to remove. I would never use it on the fiberglass roof seam as if it ever had to be removed, the fiberglass roof radius would come with it.
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:27 PM   #25
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The last time that I caulked my roof, I used 5200. Granted, this about three years ago but it had come undone and part of my roof was starting to lift. This truly got my full attention.

Just finished eternabond.
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:49 PM   #26
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So, if you are an innocent owner who asks one of the shops to re-seal your roof seams, just what kind of a job do you get?

.
A very bad one: We had the MH at the dealer for some service and they did a "free" roof inspection. They called and said the side seams needed to be caulked. I gave them the go ahead. Two months later we had the MH back at the dealer for the frig recall. They called and said we had a water leak inside up front. They re-caulked the front cap. (Apparently the cap seals are not part of the roof inspection!) Anyway, after a down pour on our way back from Florida and water coming in on me while driving, we took it to the factory. It two techs over 4 hours to remove the crap the dealer used. The tech said he never saw such a poor caulk job and they could not ID the material used but it wasn't even close to factory specs.
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:48 PM   #27
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I ended up with a 3M adhesive that I found in my local ACE hardware store, and have also seen it in a NAPA store. As far as I know, there is a slow cure (7-day, the factory uses) and the fast cure (24 hours) that I used. It is fairly thick, and when cured is very tough. Sort of like the rubber you would have on a tennis shoe sole.

3M™ Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200, you can find the specs on the 3M web site.
3M5200 is great stuff. However, it is not recommended for our roof seams due to it not being UV resistant. Check out Kop-R-Plastic, or PL400 Polyurethane door and window sealant as they are.
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Old 08-22-2011, 06:48 AM   #28
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I posted this on another thread, but here is what I found out looking into the best sealer from Winnebago.

Winnebago recommended a product called Kop-r-lastic from the Canadian based company Henry. Kop-R-Lastic is not sold in the US, so I contacted Henry.

They recommended the US version of this product called HE212. You can buy it at Home Depot in clear for about 9 bucks a tube. Data sheet attached for reference.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf HE212_techdata.pdf (45.7 KB, 136 views)
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