Roof seam problem

[Rapid Ray]

I have a 2005 Winnebago Voyage that has a persistant windsheild water leakage problem. I have posted before but now I need some knowledge or experienced on the Winny roof seam caulking. Last week we again had a rain storm here in So Cal and of course my passenger side windsheild showed water dripping on the dash. This problem continues since one month of purchase date (Jan 2005) and has been in the shop four times. The last time was past warrantee but winnebago picked up the charges and did a pressure check the last time. The dealer thought they found the real problem via pressure testing, however, one month later and it leaks again. Winny has again approved continueing the search and another pressure check scheduled for next week.
This morning we had a heavy drizzel so I checked out the dash and upper moulding and found a few drops of water just from the drizzle. I got my ladder and checked around the seam and rain gutter plus sealant around the front cap side.
I found that the seal was now bad about three feet further back from the front cap and easily moved away from the outer gutter rail. For sure this is part of my problem. Checking the drivers side roof seam, I found it good until I got about 12 feet from the front cap. There I found the caulking would TEAR away from the gutter when I applied the same pressure as before.
Now my question is this: The thickness of the caulking seemed to be about as thick as a strip of scotch tape. It did not extend down into the area below the gutter rail edge. In other words it seemed to be surface only. Is this a bad caulk at the factory or is it natural for the sealant to shrink to that thickness? I wonder where this leaves me now with the dealer and the factory rep? If I redo it I will use Eternabond tape. All points of view would be appreciated, and yes I had checked the seam with thumb pressure once before. This was also posted on RV.NET.

[Rapid Ray]

I have a 2005 Winnebago Voyage that has a persistant windsheild water leakage problem. I have posted before but now I need some knowledge or experienced on the Winny roof seam caulking. Last week we again had a rain storm here in So Cal and of course my passenger side windsheild showed water dripping on the dash. This problem continues since one month of purchase date (Jan 2005) and has been in the shop four times. The last time was past warrantee but winnebago picked up the charges and did a pressure check the last time. The dealer thought they found the real problem via pressure testing, however, one month later and it leaks again. Winny has again approved continueing the search and another pressure check scheduled for next week.
This morning we had a heavy drizzel so I checked out the dash and upper moulding and found a few drops of water just from the drizzle. I got my ladder and checked around the seam and rain gutter plus sealant around the front cap side.
I found that the seal was now bad about three feet further back from the front cap and easily moved away from the outer gutter rail. For sure this is part of my problem. Checking the drivers side roof seam, I found it good until I got about 12 feet from the front cap. There I found the caulking would TEAR away from the gutter when I applied the same pressure as before.
Now my question is this: The thickness of the caulking seemed to be about as thick as a strip of scotch tape. It did not extend down into the area below the gutter rail edge. In other words it seemed to be surface only. Is this a bad caulk at the factory or is it natural for the sealant to shrink to that thickness? I wonder where this leaves me now with the dealer and the factory rep? If I redo it I will use Eternabond tape. All points of view would be appreciated, and yes I had checked the seam with thumb pressure once before. This was also posted on RV.NET.

[bobpie]

Yep, it's a poor design. I had my roof seam caulked at the selling dealer for a 400 and some odd dollar amount, that only lasted a couple of months. I do it myself now but it doesn't last any longer. They say to check it every 6 months but I think they mean to remove and recaulk every 6 months. We haven't any leaks from this, (Knock on wood) just jinxed myself, as of this date. I am getting ready to just touch up the loose seams where needed this time and wait for a later date to completly remove and recaulk for the 3rd time. Good luck in getting your leak fixed. PS. I have heard that the pressure test is the best way to find just where the water is getting in at.

[doc]

RR > it is a pain for sure. Couple of things you might consider. Are you sure the water is coming from the the windshield joint? Many folks report water getting in at the clearance lights abouve the windshield and running down.

Roof edge> I recaulked and got a good seal. I believe the factory crowd gets in a hurry with their caulking when they build these things. I cleaned all the old caulking out/off and then dried the surfaces. Used a towel on the blade of a putty knife and forced the blade between the rail and roll of the roof. dried that and wiped any old caulk off. THEN, I put the pointed end of the caulking tube between them (forcing the two surfaces apart) and as I moved the gun, filling the void with caulk, it sealed perhaps a half inch or further in the joint, then squeezed out the top. I used a damp finger to smooth and seal the top of the joint.
Of course all this is a moot point since I decided I never wanted to go through moving the ladder and scrubbing the surfaces again....I covered the newly caulked joint with Ebond and now I don't worry.
hope this helps.
doc

[Rapid Ray]

I went out today and used my hose on the roof and flooded the seam..... no water inside, so evidently that was not my problem area. further checking proved water access was through two holes punched through skin behind clearance lights. Why didn't the first pressure test find this flaw? I even asked them to check these ligths on my first trip in because of previous troubles posted here.

[Gary CA]

Rapid Ray: My coach also leaked water in the rains last year. The water came in from the clearance lights and moved around where you would swear that the windshield was leaking. Good reminder, also check the seal on the rear clearance lights!

[ichn2go]

My 03 had to be caulked around the clearance lights. Just wasn't done at the factory..
Eternabond is the way to fix the seam. You shouldn't ever have another problem with the seam..Good Miles

[billron]

I just used the eternabond tape on my seam. It looks and works great. You can use the one step rv repair kit or do what I did. The colors in the kit you have to choose from are white and black (not the color of my RV). I have a beige RV. The black or white would stand out. I used Eternabonds webseal tape and UV protectant paint. The tape is a sort of cloth back that takes paint really well. I took the paint to a local auto paint mixer and had him tint the white UV protectant paint to the color of my RV. It looks great and it bonded really good. No more annual seam maintenance or wall damage from water getting in the seam. The next time you have seam issues, eternabond it. I bought a kit with 4 rolls at 50ft tape and a gallon of the UV protectant for $195.00. It was over kill for my seam but I have plenty extra for my maintenance compartment and if I have any leaks on any of my metal buildings it will fix it to. Happy RVing!

[vb98]

what are you using as a sealant?? <(((<
vb98<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by bobpie:
Yep, it's a poor design. I had my roof seam caulked at the selling dealer for a 400 and some odd dollar amount, that only lasted a couple of months. I do it myself now but it doesn't last any longer. They say to check it every 6 months but I think they mean to remove and recaulk every 6 months. We haven't any leaks from this, (Knock on wood) just jinxed myself, as of this date. I am getting ready to just touch up the loose seams where needed this time and wait for a later date to completly remove and recaulk for the 3rd time. Good luck in getting your leak fixed. PS. I have heard that the pressure test is the best way to find just where the water is getting in at. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[FrontRangeRVer]

Guys...the sealant against the gutter rail failing is not the seam of where the roof meets the side.....that seam is 1" under the gutter rail....

The roof fiberglass goes UNDER the gutter rail and OVER the sides of the coach about an inch. So a gutter rail sealant failure doesnt mean that you will have a leak, as water doesnt run UPHILL.