Spare Tire?

[AggieDad]

Thanks for all the input. As I mentioned a bit earlier, I think I will check the air and keep it for emergencies, even though I won't be the one changing it. CJBrown - you are right. 475 ft lbs of torque is a bit, and don't have a breaker bar in my tool kit.

I'll address the whole thing when I return home from Alaska. Right now I am writing this on the N.S. Statendam on the Inside Passage (I invite all to check our blog at Travels With Linda).

[NeilV]

I carry a roofers pancake compressor and a 625 ft lb capacity impact wrench in my coach along with a 20 ton jack and enough 2X12 to block the jack. Also carry sockets big enough to remove the wheel lugs and the covers as many service trucks do not come out equipped to change a motor home tire. It can make the difference most times between a few hour delay and several days delay or as I mentioned before in the severe case of a forest fire a total loss.

I once got stuck with a rear brake pad failure that locked up a caliper when camping on an abandoned air field in the boonies of Alabama. Made the difference between making the repair there myself with local assistance and having the coach loaded on a flatbed and transported back to civilization. Thankfully there was a Napa parts store within 50 miles that could get the set of calipers and the brake pads. A vacuum brake bleeder helped make the job much easier too. Just raise the wheel so there is no more pressure on the lugs so the wheels slide off while still on the ground without lifting them. Made dealing with the rear duals much easier.

[Clay L]

Regarding the 475 ft pound lug nut torque. I have checked several RV shops, tire shops and two mobile tire services and none had the tools needed to set the torque properly.

I bought a 3 to 1 torque multiplier - 3/4 inch drive in and 1 inch out , a 1 inch drive 33 MM socket, a 10 inch long 1 inch drive extension, a 250 ft pound torque wrench with a 1/2 inch out drive, a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch drive adapter, and made a reaction bar extension for the torque multiplier so it will reach the ground for all lug nuts.

I take that with me so it can be used if needed.
I have only had to use it once - by the tire shop when I had the tires replaced at 7 years.

Looking back I could have bought a Snap On or MAC Tool 500 ft pound torque wrench for about $150 to $200 more and that is probably what I should have done.

[CJBROWN]

Originally Posted by Clay L

Regarding the 475 ft pound lug nut torque. I have checked several RV shops, tire shops and two mobile tire services and none had the tools needed to set the torque properly.

I bought a 3 to 1 torque multiplier - 3/4 inch drive in and 1 inch out , a 1 inch drive 33 MM socket, a 10 inch long 1 inch drive extension, a 250 ft pound torque wrench with a 1/2 inch out drive, a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch drive adapter, and made a reaction bar extension for the torque multiplier so it will reach the ground for all lug nuts.

I take that with me so it can be used if needed.
I have only had to use it once - by the tire shop when I had the tires replaced at 7 years.

Looking back I could have bought a Snap On or MAC Tool 500 ft pound torque wrench for about $150 to $200 more and that is probably what I should have done.

Good on ya. I think I have the thing you call a 'reaction bar', something that supports the end of the socket extension down to the ground. It's an adjustable thingy so you can reef on the end of the breaker bar with both hands. LOL.

I don't torque them, just cinch up to where I could get them back off. With 10 lug nuts it's not like they're gonna come loose or fall off.

[peggwn]

I have to concur with AggieDad - we have a 2000 Itaska w/ Workhorse frame and our wheels and spare are 19.5" w/ 10 lugs.

[WReeder]

I have a Itasca SunCruiser and the Workhorse Model didn't come with an spare. I have kept the best rear inter-tire from the old tires as a un-mounted Spare that I carry on a home made (Simpson Type) carrier that I made. The tire has no cracks or checks in the rubber, I feel that it would get me to a place that I could buy a tire on my terms. And I didn't have to come up with the funds to purchase a new one just to tow around. I have heard of people RVing their whole life and never have a need for a spare!

[Ramzfan]

In my opinion, the tire being kept out of the sunlight should make it trustworthy enough to take you to the next tire shop. It could be twenty years old, but if you drive on it carefully, you'll get there.

[Scooter]

Our RV did not come with a spare. I was able to buy a used 22.5" tire and a rim and had it assembled. We crammed it into a pass thru compartment....partially.

1/3 of the tire sits on the pass thru shelf and the other 2/3 is in space, supported by some 1/2" horizontal rebar that ends up in adjoining compartments. The rebar is supported, further, by a notched 2x4 in the front.

Too dumb to post a picture but if you have a fax....I drew it out and will send to anyone interested.

[Ramzfan]

NeilV: Not to claim I'm lucky, but I drove the original Michelin tires on my 1988 Itasca Windcruiser for 14 years and never had a blowout. The coach was stored outside in both San Bernardino, CA and Las Vegas, NV. It didn't have tire covers either. When I finally traded it in on a new one, it still had the original tires and the spare had never been out of it's compartment.

[NeilV]

You are a minority. Blowouts are all to common on anything over 5 years old. Come here and tour the evidence warehouses full of vehicles that had tires just over 5 years old blow out sometimes on the day of purchase and the numbers from just one community will be unsettling. It's too in-your-face and common to be ignored.

My 1952 FMC Tractor still has the original tires on it however I don't ride that at over 5 mph.

Yes some who cheat do get away with it however that in itself does not make it advisable or a Best Practice.