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Old 02-18-2010, 06:48 PM   #21
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EMS- Electrical Management System. An aftermarket device to protect against high/low voltage, opens, reversals, surges, etc.

EMS- Energy Management System. Installed by the RV manufacturer for load management, shedding loads as needed.

It gets confusing with both systems having the same acronym.
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Old 02-18-2010, 07:44 PM   #22
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Oops, posted this in the wrong spot..sorry.
All this info is wonderful, except it is way over my head...is your suggestion for a non- DIYer to purchase a Progressive EMS HW50-C to protect our 50 amp, 2008 Neptune XL from bad electricity when we are plugged into power at the campgrounds, etc? What should we expect to pay to have it hard wired? Thanks for all you help!
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydney cain View Post
Oops, posted this in the wrong spot..sorry.
All this info is wonderful, except it is way over my head...is your suggestion for a non- DIYer to purchase a Progressive EMS HW50-C to protect our 50 amp, 2008 Neptune XL from bad electricity when we are plugged into power at the campgrounds, etc? What should we expect to pay to have it hard wired? Thanks for all you help!
my prog ind ssp50 inline surge protector works just fine. it is easy to use and the price is right.
ref:
Progressive Industries Smart Surge 240Volt / 50Amp - In-line Model - SSP50
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:18 PM   #24
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Barrier2:
No problem with a power cord. Mine was installed right next to the tub that holds the power cord. I bought the unit at a rally and they installed it free. He disconnected the power cord from the cross over switch and wired it to the input side of the EMS. Then wired the EMS to the cross over switch. Less then 30 mins. (Remember --- this was not his first rodeo.) This investment has saved me big time, once that I know of. Well worth the money spent.
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:52 AM   #25
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I've had a SurgeGuard 34750 (50A) by TRC (Technology Research Corp) for seven years. Paid about 300 for it (portable model). And quite often it apparently detects a spike (or low voltage) & shuts down power to my rig (RV park power remains On) and recycles On in about 2 1/2 minutes. Seems to work fine to me. Of course my electronic expertise is limited to the On/Off wall switch. Anyway, seems to work ok for me not only as a surge protector, but it also keeps elephants away.

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Old 02-19-2010, 07:30 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by MrTransistor View Post
.... I used to teach this stuff in the Air Force .....
Mr. Transistor,

You weren't my Basic Elecronics instructor at Lowry AFB in 1960, were you?

Your post brings back vivid memories of those classes I had there.
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:45 PM   #27
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Hi ling,

Nope, I taught at Keesler in1968-69. Radar Sets and Basic Electronics (Transistor Theory). Same theory, same manuals. Good to know there are other ground ponders out there.
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Old 02-19-2010, 04:08 PM   #28
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Only thing I remember from Electronics school at Keesler was Mr. Webb. The desks in his classroom had indentations from him using a large antenna to smack the desk to wake up a student!
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:30 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Route 66 View Post
EMS- Electrical Management System. An aftermarket device to protect against high/low voltage, opens, reversals, surges, etc.

EMS- Energy Management System. Installed by the RV manufacturer for load management, shedding loads as needed.

It gets confusing with both systems having the same acronym.
Oops! I did mean "Energy Management System." My bad! Shame on me. Thanks for straightening me out. I should have verified that in my manual.

Darn! I was wrongmistaken!
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Old 12-28-2018, 03:52 PM   #30
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Cool Progressive Industries EMS products 30 amp and 50 amp

I notice a few of the postings in this topic say the EMS is not a surge protector...I don't think that is correct. This is directly from manual included int my new EMS-PT30X received as Christmas gift: The EMS continuously monitors AC power. When AC power deviates below 104 volts, for more than six (6 ) seconds, or rises above 132 volts, the EMS automatically shuts down power to the RV. Once the AC power rises above 104 or drops below 132, the 2 minute 16 second time delay counts down and power is restored automatically.

Also, the E10 error will only be detected on the unit if a truly significant surge, such as that described in a lightening strike, and the unit fails.

In addition to monitoring voltage it also monitors AC frequency and protects if frequency deviates plus/minus 9hz from 60 HZ.

I just say a rating system for protectors somewhere and the EMS was rated number 5 of 8 but 1-5 were all close.

Happy RVing...I am trying to figure out best lock to buy to secure my EMS to the park Pedestal Power Outlet. I understand at cost of $250-$500 they are very susceptible to theft!
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Old 12-28-2018, 04:53 PM   #31
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You can get a brand new SSP-50XL on Amazon.com for $ 118.02 with free shipping. So, if it were me I would return the used one and get a new one. Even if the surge failure indicator is not lit, I would still personally start out with a new one for only $ 20 more.

If you can afford one, I recommend the Surge Guard 35550 Hardwire model for $ 251.05 on Amazon. It has all the functions of the SSP-50XL plus several more:

- it has more surge protection , can absorb a bigger power hit without burning out the surge protectors.

- It has a big power contactor inside and will not let power thru if the pedestal is mis-wired, or has low voltage or high voltage.

- It has a power on to cut-thru time delay so if there is a power hit on the pedestal power, it keeps power off long enough (120 sec) to let the AC compressors pressure down so that they don't stall and burn out from trying to start when the refrigerant is pressurized inside the AC.

Personally I like the hard-wired as it is theft proof and cheaper. I mounted mine in the shore cable basement compartment where I can the indicator lights, and after plugging in the shore cable and flipping on the pedestal breaker I can glance at it and confirm that power is OK. It is slight pain to have to wait the 2 minutes for it to cut thru but if it saves a $ 1,500 roof top AC or residential refrigerator compressor from burning up it's worth it.
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