Testing water pressure valve

[BigTrace]

I'm sure most of the new MH's have this so I thought I'd ask the question. In the waste compartment, there is a fresh water inlet for a city water hose hook up. In that hose connector, there is a white "valve" that when push, will let water backflow through the valve. The valve is meant to retract when a fresh water hose is attached to the system and retract when you are not connected and using your water pump. In my manual, it says you can "test" the valve anytime by either pushing it with a small device (like a pencil) or the tip of your finger to make sure the valve is operating correctly. I did this and couldn't get my valve to "re-seat" at all and ended up using the attached cap to plug up the hose fitting so it wouldn't leak any more. I called Lichtsinn about this and said I had a bad valve and they promptly sent me another one (I mean PROMPTLY to, had it in 2 days!). Anyhow, yesterday, I took out the old one, put in the new one and everything was working fine until I did the same test. Leaks again. I looked in my old valve after I had it out and noticed the o-ring underneath the valve was displaced and the valve was unable to re-seat itself properly. I'm afraid that is what is happening again on the 2nd valve. Anybody else have this problem? When I get another hose connection, I'm afraid to even try this again. I like to carry another water hose as a backup to my power hose reel in case something happens to the reel. If I can't connect into the fresh water line with any assurance that when I disconnect, the valve won't reseat, that's not a good thing. Any suggestions?

[BigTrace]

I'm sure most of the new MH's have this so I thought I'd ask the question. In the waste compartment, there is a fresh water inlet for a city water hose hook up. In that hose connector, there is a white "valve" that when push, will let water backflow through the valve. The valve is meant to retract when a fresh water hose is attached to the system and retract when you are not connected and using your water pump. In my manual, it says you can "test" the valve anytime by either pushing it with a small device (like a pencil) or the tip of your finger to make sure the valve is operating correctly. I did this and couldn't get my valve to "re-seat" at all and ended up using the attached cap to plug up the hose fitting so it wouldn't leak any more. I called Lichtsinn about this and said I had a bad valve and they promptly sent me another one (I mean PROMPTLY to, had it in 2 days!). Anyhow, yesterday, I took out the old one, put in the new one and everything was working fine until I did the same test. Leaks again. I looked in my old valve after I had it out and noticed the o-ring underneath the valve was displaced and the valve was unable to re-seat itself properly. I'm afraid that is what is happening again on the 2nd valve. Anybody else have this problem? When I get another hose connection, I'm afraid to even try this again. I like to carry another water hose as a backup to my power hose reel in case something happens to the reel. If I can't connect into the fresh water line with any assurance that when I disconnect, the valve won't reseat, that's not a good thing. Any suggestions?

[CalgaryCowboy]

I had a similiar problem when I winterized my unit in the fall of 2004. I re-seated it in the spring of 2005 & everything is now working okay.

I think I pressed it to hard which caused the problem initially.

Regards

[BigTrace]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by CalgaryCowboy:

I think I pressed it to hard which caused the problem initially.

Regards </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I wondered this too, but then thought, "CAN" you press it too hard. There is pressure behind the valve which forces it forward and if your just "testing" to make sure it doesn't leak, you have to press it pretty good. It springs back (as you know) just fine. You get a jolt of water and everything is good, but mine wont reseat (Again).

[Petro]

Bigtrace;
I had the same problem. I determined that when there is pressure behind the valve and you retract the valve that the presure forces the o-ring off it's seat, I will not press the valve anymore when there is pressure present. I removed the valve, disassembled it, replaced the o-ring, reinstalled the valve and it works fine.


Don

Don

[BigTrace]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Petro:
Bigtrace;
I had the same problem. I determined that when there is pressure behind the valve and you retract the valve that the presure forces the o-ring off it's seat, I will not press the valve anymore when there is pressure present. I removed the valve, disassembled it, replaced the o-ring, reinstalled the valve and it works fine.


Don

Don </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's what my dealer said as well. Removing it is not a problem, how do you disassemble it from there? It doesn't look readily apparent to me.

Thanks

[rebelsbeach]

Tracey, the "arrow" on my check valve is facing the hose reel, or "down".

I'm thinking the water flow should be the other way,so the valve needs to face "away" from the hose reel....right?

[BigTrace]

Yes Sir, that is correct. Anyone that has a power hose reel that hasn't "used" it as of yet should also check it. I have been toold by Winnebago directly that this is an issue and they made a change in their installation procedures.

[rebelsbeach]

OK!!

My check valve arrow now goes with the flow instead of against it....Other than being a contortionist around the paper towel holder,I think I made it...

[Petro]

BigTrace;
The valve was on a 97 Adventure and I am not sure if yours is different or not. The white plastic tip snapped into the spring retainer. I figured it was no good the way it was so I gambled. I secured the valve in a vise and taped the tip back through the spring retainer. That let piston with the o-ring to drop out the bottom. Make sure you have something to catch the o-ring on the bottom. Cover the top also because the spring will want to jump out of the top. I put the o-ring back on the piston and snaped it back together. You have to align everything up before snapping it back. You have nothing to lose. If you can't fix it you can always replace it. I ordered a new one which I still have and fixed the old one while I was waiting for shipment.

Good Luck
Don

[BigTrace]

Good Morning All,

I ended up fixing it yesterday. For those that want to know, it was relatively easy. You have to take the valve off your coach, pull out the washer, then your left with the white plunger/spring assembly. The white plunger is actually 2 pieces. BY accident, I lifted up on both sides of the "Wing" section that goes across and it popped off. I thought I broke it, but found I didn't as it was meant to come off. Anyhow, it is very easy from there, just put the O-ring back in its place and re-assemble. Push the "wing" section back on with even pressure and it will "snap" back together. Re-installed on my coach and it worked fine. Lessons learned for me..