Travel Lock Field Repair for Winnebago Ind.

Wayne M · 06-06-2011, 09:31 PM

Thanks to Elkhart Jim for the link to this information.

There have been a couple threads in the Winnebago Owners thread regarding the Travel Lock Field Repair for Winnebago Ind., Power Gear Technical document 82-S0504. (Note: This link may not directly work, just go to the technical document section of power gear and search on the document number 82-s0504.)

None of the previous threads identified the Power Gear (Kwikee) solution to problems caused by the travel lock. I thought it necessary to submit this follow up for clarification.

As you can see in the technical document, there are two solutions when the travel lock fails, and is general caused by the screw identified in the document. Clearance, using one of the options identified, has to be establish. If you are not under warranty, it is possible that you could have a malfunction at a later date. Here is what the tech told me.

Remove the 4 screws holding the plastic cover over the motor housing. Use a pair of pliers and grip the shaft forward of the micro-switches, not the beveled part that the micro switches use, but forward of that. While someone pushes the lock/unlock button, wiggle the shaft back and forth to see if it frees up. It should work.

I hope you never have to use the above, but if you do, good luck on your own. I'd rather have a technician do it.

Good Sam covered 1 hour of the two hour labor. If you are only having to do one on a small slide, it is supposed to take 1 hour. One half of that would be for diagnostics.

lost1 · 06-08-2011, 06:48 PM

Many thanks. The link works fine. The lock is not as complicated as it sounds (or looks from the photos) - and mine seems to stick every time. I have left the cover off and have been pulling the hairpin and clevis pin when it jams and just shaking it until it frees. This works but is PIA. This fix will save me a trip to dealership.

lost1 · 06-18-2011, 08:17 PM

I followed the Power Gear field repair procedure today. A few notes:
1. No info if lock should be open or closed (un vs. lock). I found that about 6 turns takes the tension off so that the drive nut assy will move back so that the motor can come out.
2. My lock was binding, but the motor did not have 2 washers on the screw (or any other screw) shown in the procedure. It had one thick lock washer (sometimes called a split washer).
Since Power Gear had indicated that more float was desirable, and their solution was to make the screw shorter by removing a washer, I removed the existing washer and replaced it with one that was thinner.
We'll see if this fixes my problem or not. Since my unit did not have two washers its possible Power Gear fixed production before their bulletin. If so, the remaining washer was still too large (maybe) .

Wayne M · 06-19-2011, 07:09 AM

Lost1,
The technician that repaired mine stated he took both washers off and used Loctite (Blue I hope)

I glad my post helped. Thanks for the reply.

Happy trails.

Elkhartjim · 06-19-2011, 07:29 AM

FYI. The Powergearus website has a "contact us" form or you can email them at info@powergearus.com with questions. They have been very responsive to my emails.