V-10 Engine Air

[dhwgulf]

YGBSM!!!!!
I posted my new thread and was told that it was too short by three characters. When I tried to retrieve my new input, I had to start over. Give me a break.
Her we go again - maybe with not the same message, but whatever.
I have just replaced a window on my 2002 Winnebago Adventurer because of condensation in the passenger side of the insulated windows. Thanks to your forum, it was accomplished successfully.
My rig has been on blocks since last winter and I am getting ready for a trip, so while checking out the systems, I found that the engine air was putting out warm/hot air (I am based in Texas). I put a gage on the input side of the ac system and got a "dangerous" reading, then called Auto Zone and asked advice. They told me that I should connect the refill system to the intake side, atart the engine and run for at least three minutes. The pressure should go down - if it does not, disconnect the recycle connection and short it out with a paper clip, which should cause the system to recycle and the pressure should decrease. then I should be able to refill the system with refrigerant.
Does anyone have experience with this problem??????????? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hope this meets the shortness requirement!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
DHWGULF

[roy616]

Judging by the date of your post you've probably already had your AC fixed and are on your trip. Anyway, here's some info.

On the lower pressure side of the line is a switch. I've never hear it referred to as a "Recycle Connection". There should be two wires connected. It's the low pressure switch which prevents the AC clutch from engaging if the pressure in the line is too low. If the clutch isn't engaging (with the AC on Max/Recirculate, fan on full speed) then you'll need to jump the switch with a piece of wire (bent to a U shape). Disconnect the connector from the switch first and insert the wire into the connector terminals. This will force the compressor clutch to engage (you should hear it click on). Now connect your guage/refill hose to the lower pressure port and check the pressure. Your reading should be low, not dangerous, unless you over charged the system last year. If it is over charged there's another switch called the high pressure switch which will prevent the compressor from engaging if the pressure is too high.

If you're just low pick up a couple cans of R134a refrigerant, one of them with UV dye, the other straight (no leak sealer). Put the can with the dye in first and run the system. Keep adding refrigerant until you're in the "filled" area of the gauge then disconnect the jumper and reconnect the connector to the switch and see if the clutch is cycling/engaging.

Pick up a UV light (pen light) for about $10 and at night check all of the connections for the glowing dye, especially at the condensor. With luck your leak will be bad "O-Rings" and not the evaporator (like my Cherokee was...three day job).

If your system leaked down completely then you may have moisture in the system and have lost an ounce or two of oil. The system needs to be evacuated with a vacuum pump to 26-28 in/Hg for about an hour (it lowers the boiling point of water and pulls it out of your system) and you'll need to find out what weight oil your system uses. My Jeep uses PAG100, my neighbor's Monte Carlo uses PAG150. If I were you I'd consider replacing all of the O-rings, drier/accumulator and your fixed orifice tube if you have one.

Running a system with a lot of moisture in it and low on oil can wreck your compressor...major expense.