Water Heater Check Valves

[Dave and Cris]

I a question for the water heater wizards.

We have a Atwood GCH10A-4E water heater. It has two check valves. One at the top of the tank and one at the bottom. The one at the top failed so I pulled it out, removed the "insides" and re-attached the brass fitting to restore hot water to our MH. I did this about six weeks ago ... we are on the road ... and decided to replace it when we get home. We have had no problems since then except last night the water pump would not shut off after re-pressurizing the lines.

Q1. I believe the check valve on the top of the tank is for cold water supply so do I need to replace it soon?

Q2. Without this check valve, would it have any effect on the water pump not wanting to shut off?

If I have posted this to the wrong forum, please let me know.

Thanks,

Dave

[Dave and Cris]

I a question for the water heater wizards.

We have a Atwood GCH10A-4E water heater. It has two check valves. One at the top of the tank and one at the bottom. The one at the top failed so I pulled it out, removed the "insides" and re-attached the brass fitting to restore hot water to our MH. I did this about six weeks ago ... we are on the road ... and decided to replace it when we get home. We have had no problems since then except last night the water pump would not shut off after re-pressurizing the lines.

Q1. I believe the check valve on the top of the tank is for cold water supply so do I need to replace it soon?

Q2. Without this check valve, would it have any effect on the water pump not wanting to shut off?

If I have posted this to the wrong forum, please let me know.

Thanks,

Dave

[TAN]

Q1 You can replace the O ring in the top valve. I have no answer for Q2. Sorry

[Petro]

Dave;

I am not sure on this but I think some of the winterizing bypass systems require an operating check valve. Hopefully someone with more experience will jump in here and confirm or correct me.

Don

[Janjanjan]

My understanding is that the bottom check valve is to prevent antifreeze backing into the water heater when winterizing. Our check valve was bad and we found ourselves needing many gallons of antifreeze and found the hot water heater filled with the pink stuff. We thought we were crazy and maybe hadn't properly set the water heater bypass valve, but after questioning here on the forum, got information that we probably had a bad check valve. Absolutely right on, and one more time that we were thankful for the help we get whenever we ask a question here.

[Harry B]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Q2. Without this check valve, would it have any effect on the water pump not wanting to shut off? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Dave,

The internal workings of the check valves have no effect on being able to pressurize the water system and keeping it pressurized. Usually the most common problem is a leak in the water system at one of the couplings (possibly the reinstalled check valve tread), pump itself being deffective, the city/tank fill selector valve being defective faucets leaking or leaks at the filters. Least common is a bad water line.

[wagonmaster2]

I've replaced my Shurflo 5.7 pump 3 times in 4 years and one of the problems was, it wouldn't shut off till I switched it off at the panel. For a while I could switch it off and back on and it would stay off till used the next time. After a few days it got to where it would run anytime the switch on the panel was on. Only solution, replace the pump.
Wagonmaster2

[Jackm]

The plumbing at the top of your water heater is normally the output line and thus provides hot water to your RV. The bottom is the cold water intake line. In short, water enters the heater from the bottom and comes out hot at the top.

As others have indicated, the check valve isn't technically required since it primarily plays a role in your RV's winterizing system. However, if it's not a difficult job, I would install a new one. Reagrading the pump, these check valves should not impact the operation of your pump. Make sure all fittings are tight and your system is set on "City water" (not tank fill). However, the fact that the pump won't shut off after pressurizing the system suggests that there is probably a simple solution to your problem. Best of luck.

Jack

[Ding-a-ling]

Dave,

I took out my check valve two years ago after it failed. To winterize our MH we simply "head South."
We also had to have our Shur-Flo 5.7 pump replaced twice in one year because it wouldn't shut off after faucet was closed. After the second time I spoke with a tech at Shur-Flo and described the problem. His first question was: "On the discharge side of the pump, how close is the first 90? bend in the water line?" When I replied, "about two inches," he said they had been testing and found that as the cause of that type of pump failure.

At his direction, I bought a length of similar hose and a double-male adapter at Home Depot. He also mailed me a new straight tubing connector to mount on the pump to replace the 90? connector. In adding approximately 15" of tubing, the first curve in the hose is much less severe. Apparently, the farther the first bend is from the pump discharge the better it works.

This was completed one year ago and have not had any further problems.

[wagonmaster2]

Ding-a-ling - I'm glad that worked for you. They first told me to adjust the screw in the center of the head, when that didn't help I was told to be sure all the air was bled from the lines, when that didn't help they told me the same thing about the 90 degree angles in the output line. I bought the necessary fittings and 18" of new line for the output and also changed the input 90 degree fitting, when that didn't help they sent me a new pump - that fixed it.
Wagonmaster2