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Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve
11-27-2010, 10:41 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 390
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We're on the road and when we stopped for the night I turned on my water heater and faucet and the water heater began spewing water from the pressure relief valve (not seeping). Am I to assume that the valve is no longer operable and should I replace it. Other possibilities?
I should mention that I waited awhile, let it cool, turned on everything and had the same result.
Is this the kind of replacement that should be done by a tech or should I tackle it. I assume that I can find a replacement at most RV supply stores.
Nick
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11-27-2010, 11:06 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 242
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Nick replace it yourself. It just scews in simple job good luck.
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2001 Horizon 2004 jeep GC
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11-27-2010, 11:21 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 725
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Absolutely, do it yourself Nick, unless you have no inclination and money to burn. Access is easy, all you need is one wrench and ten minutes. You don't even need to drain anything. Pull it out, crank the other one in. Good luck.
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'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
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11-28-2010, 06:59 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Milledgeville Ga.
Posts: 1,160
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You may try, as a quick fix, flipping and releasing the lever on it a few times. If it just corroded up, this may get yoy going.
If it does, then you will still want to replaced it as soon as practical. Easy job though, good wrench or channel locks. Should be able to purchase one at any home supply such as Lowes or Ace.
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Jerry & Patsy, Taz & Jake
2000 Winnebago Journey
2006 Ford Explorer 4X4
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11-28-2010, 07:12 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizard
You may try, as a quick fix, flipping and releasing the lever on it a few times. If it just corroded up, this may get yoy going.
If it does, then you will still want to replaced it as soon as practical. Easy job though, good wrench or channel locks. Should be able to purchase one at any home supply such as Lowes or Ace.
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Ours was dripping and I found that flipping the lever up and down did stop the leak. Evidently there was crud in the valve. To be prepared, I got a replacement from AdventureRV.net just in case it does fail. The local Home Depot & Lowes didn't carry the smaller diameter unit that would fit.
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Ron, Joan & beautiful dog Callie
2005 Itasca Sunova 34A
1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ toad
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11-28-2010, 07:41 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Posts: 1,648
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When you get to an area that as Home Depot AND a RV place take the valve out and go to Home Depot for a match. If they don't have it then try the RV dealer. Use thread sealer on the new install.
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KIX
2002 Ultimate Advantage 40J-Spartan-Cummins
2004 Jeep Rubicon 2004 Subaru Forester
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11-28-2010, 02:15 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 272
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I had been told in the past not to get into the habit of releasing that spring for one reason or another because it causes its strength to deteriorate. And if it leaks, replace it.
Now when I want to bleed water out of that tank, I open the hot water faucet and the hot water drain on the bottom of the m/h and then open the large locking bolt on the bottom (sometimes this is a white plastic nut). (The extra water will really come charging out.) In an Atwood I think that is the bar that "bad water" chemicals attach themselves to. On a Surburban, it is just a locking valve.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!!
Joe from Ct. 
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11-30-2010, 08:41 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 390
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Got it fixed! Thanks to all that provided advice for this repair. The old T & P valve was a bear to remove, but I finally got it off and the new one is working perfectly. Love that hot water.
Nick
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