Water heater switch

[OldChief7155]

Can the bulb be changed in the "red" switch?

[SVTotem]

Just changed mine on my 39k. The bulb is a part of the switch. First the light failed, then the switch itself soon after. When ordering the switch order the bezel as well. It is highly likely the plastic pins holding it to the switch will fail when you remove it. At least that happened the the guy troubleshooting mine. I was watching at the time and he was being careful

I installed the switch myself once it came in the the service center rather than drive the coach back.

Now my water pump seems to have failed, but that is another thread.

[amanda_h]

Originally Posted by SVTotem

Just changed mine on my 39k. The bulb is a part of the switch. First the light failed, then the switch itself soon after. When ordering the switch order the bezel as well. It is highly likely the plastic pins holding it to the switch will fail when you remove it. At least that happened the the guy troubleshooting mine. I was watching at the time and he was being careful

I installed the switch myself once it came in the the service center rather than drive the coach back.

Now my water pump seems to have failed, but that is another thread.

It's always something, isn't it Bill?!

Just a slight clarification on what you described as we just changed ours too. The "bezel" is actually the wrong terminology as what you were describing is actually the "base plate" or what the manufacturer of the switch calls the "floor." The bezel is actually the outside covering that has the printing on it that says "WATER HTR 110"

So the switch actually is in three parts 1. the red switch itself, 2. the "floor" or base plate that the switch fits into, and 3. the outer bezel which just snaps off from the front.

And you are absolutely right, quite a few we've talked to that have replaced the switch have cracked the base plate while trying to separate the switch as we did our first time. If you're very careful and patient and use a small flat blade screwdriver like the ones you use to tighten the screws on your eye glasses, you can separate the switch from the "floor" without cracking the "floor" but if you put any kind of force on it, the plastic will crack.

We ordered the switch and the base plate (floor) from the manufacturer's distributor, Wesco, in Elkhart IN for $4 for the switch and .85 for the floor plate. They were a bit less expensive than ordering it from the Winnebago dealers we checked with. The manufacturer is American Technology Components also located in Elkhart.

If you'd like parts numbers or phone numbers to call, OldChief, let me know.

[OldChief7155]

Yes, I would like the number. THANKS!

[cbeierl]

Here's an earlier post describing how to replace the switch/light (it's easy): 110 volt water heater switch

[amanda_h]

Originally Posted by OldChief7155

Yes, I would like the number. THANKS!

To the best of my knowledge, the American Technology Components part numbers are:

lighted red switch: AH-SWI-01-3

brown base plate "floor" that screws into the wall: AH-FLR-1-2

(you shouldn't need the bezel unless you somehow break it when you are prying it off. Again, Winnebago and ATC both call the bezel the part that has the printed wording "WATER HTR 110" on it that surrounds the switch)

Wesco Elkhart: 574-206-1517

Very good instructions, Chris! However, on our Meridian (and I'm not sure what kind of coach OldChief has (a Journey?), the switch is not accessible from the back of the OnePlace center. The water heater switch on ours has to be accessed from the front as it's not actually located on the OnePlace panel itself but directly above the black panel that houses all the other OnePlace stuff.

1. So, we had to gently pry the bezel off. Again, take a small screwdriver and very gently pry the bezel and it will pop off or snap off.

2. then unscrew the two screws on the switch base (aka "floor").

3. detach the wires. There will be three. Be sure that you don't lose the wires down the hole as then you will have to disassemble the the OnePlace panel to fish them out.

4. the plastic base plate (floor) can now be taken to a table where you can now pry off the switch from the base plate. This is where you can insert your small screw driver and put some pressure on the "clips" on the switch (there are two molded into the top and two on the bottom) so it will slip out of the plate. If you can do this without damaging the plate, you can reuse the plate.

5. the new switch will now just snap into the plate in the same position as the one that you just pried off.

6. reattach the wires in the proper order and screw the plate back into the wall above the OnePlace center.

7. Snap the bezel back on the plate and switch assembly and you're done.


If you can find the switch at the Winnebago dealer that Chris used, then I'd obviously buy it there. That is a very good price. The Winnebago dealers we checked with wanted at least $6.95 for it and some as high as $20.



ETA: OldChief, to actually answer your initial question, no, according to the manufacturer, you can't just replace the light inside the switch. We called American Technology Components to ask that very same question and they told us that it would be much easier just to replace the actual switch. He told us it's possible but you'd have to first find the little bulb somewhere and then you'd have a lot of intricate soldering and cementing of plastic. He also mentioned that some people were reporting that the bulb was overheating (we never had that problem) and quite a few people were asking if they had a LED replacement. He stated that it wasn't the bulb's fault but had something to do with the way Winnebago wired it and that they have a resistor or some type of diode that can be installed that will solve that problem. Since we didn't have a problem with the bulb overheating that caused us to have to replace the bulb, we didn't buy the kit he had available. Our first one burned out shortly after the warranty was up and the second bulb lasted over four years.

[SVTotem]

Amanda_h is correct on all counts. Great description of the process.

[Arch Hoagland]

SIGMA SWITCHES
4703 WYLAND DRIVE
ELKHART IN 46514

800-488-9505
================================================== =====

A1-31 SWITCH FOR WATER HEATER, BLACK PLASTIC, RED LITE 3 EACH
ZU-12-14 WHITE PLASTIC, RED LIGHT 3 EACH
ZU-03-14 BLACK PLASTIC, RED LITE 3 EACH

I stock all three in my parts bin. I've gone through 3 water heater switches/lights.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by OldChief7155

Can the bulb be changed in the "red" switch?

OldChief,
Is the switch you're talking about the same one as in the top of the picture on the left? If so, I picked it up at a local RV parts store for $8.00 and installed it in about 15 minutes. It was an exact replacment. It was simple. Remove the two screws that hold the "One Place" panel, remove the wires on the back of the defective switch, install them on the new switch, install the new switch in the correct position and re-install the panel and two screws. Done!
Scott

[OldChief7155]

Yep, that's it. Mine is solo without the propane switch. I'll pick one up next week when near a dealer. With today's gas prices it doesn't warrant a special trip.

Thanks guys!

[Arch Hoagland]

After seeing the picture FIRE UP posted disregard my post on part numbers.

That's a different switch than mine.

[amanda_h]

My apologies for giving faulty instructions ...or at least, giving instruction on how to do it the hard way.

I'm partly getting information from DH as he has a difficulty with the internet and with typing specifically so I relay a lot of information through him. I guess we both are embarrassed because we must have used the more difficult way to replace that switch.

Where are the two screws that hold the OnePlace panel? We thought of removing the black panel but thought it would be easier to access the switch from the front.

And yes, now DH is saying that he's discovered that the switch itself is generic and that you can buy it just about anywhere or at least at any RV parts store You can even order it on Ebay or Amazon ---> click here and click here

But like I posted earlier, we ordered it from the manufacturer's distributor for $4.00.

DH tells me not to post here because I always post bad information so I'll keep quiet now and just read what the rest of you guys post. *lol*

[cbeierl]

Originally Posted by amanda_h

...
Where are the two screws that hold the OnePlace panel? We thought of removing the black panel but thought it would be easier to access the switch from the front.
...

On my Vectra I believe that there is one screw down through the bottom molding and one up through the top one. Once those screw are removed the whole panel comes out.

[amanda_h]

Originally Posted by cbeierl

On my Vectra I believe that there is one screw down through the bottom molding and one up through the top one. Once those screw are removed the whole panel comes out.

hmmm, no, we see no screws through either the top or bottom molding.

We saw no other way to access that switch other than to remove the bezel and unscrew the plate that the switch fits into. Why are we missing the screws that hold the OnePlace panel in place?

[cbeierl]

I'm not sure where the OnePlace panel is on your Meridian--mine is in the center bath. Here's a picture of my panel:


Here's the screw on the top:


and here's the screw on the bottom:

[amanda_h]

hmm, no, ours does not have those screws. It's strange that only we don't have them because others with Journeys and Meridians seem to report that they have those screws.

Ours is the only one? ...or maybe just one of a certain bunch that doesn't?

[cbeierl]

You might give Winnebago Owner Relations a call with your Winnebago Serial Number (not the VIN, although I think they can cross-reference) and ask them. They're pretty good about helping folks.

[amanda_h]

The panel doesn't seem to be loose so it doesn't look as if it is an oversight on just our unit. I'm thinking it must be glued into place. Perhaps it was only on a certain run that they used glue instead of screws?

DH doesn't think it's an issue as we can still remove the black panel by removing the screws on that if we had to access anything behind the panel. And, as we described, it isn't that difficult a task to replace that water heater switch by accessing it through the front by first removing the bezel and then unscrewing the two screws on the floor plate that the switch is attached to. And the only other thing on our coach that isn't on the OnePlace panel itself is that adjacent engine heater switch that looks as if it can be easily removed without having to access the area behind the OnePlace.

But at any rate, we do find it strange that ours is apparently the only one that doesn't have the two screws holding in the OnePlace center.

[NoMoreAZ]

Originally Posted by amanda_h

ETA: OldChief, to actually answer your initial question, no, according to the manufacturer, you can't just replace the light inside the switch. We called American Technology Components to ask that very same question and they told us that it would be much easier just to replace the actual switch. He told us it's possible but you'd have to first find the little bulb somewhere and then you'd have a lot of intricate soldering and cementing of plastic. He also mentioned that some people were reporting that the bulb was overheating (we never had that problem) and quite a few people were asking if they had a LED replacement. He stated that it wasn't the bulb's fault but had something to do with the way Winnebago wired it and that they have a resistor or some type of diode that can be installed that will solve that problem. Since we didn't have a problem with the bulb overheating that caused us to have to replace the bulb, we didn't buy the kit he had available. Our first one burned out shortly after the warranty was up and the second bulb lasted over four years.

What you were told about the way 'Bago wired the red switch with bulb is correct. There is too much DC voltage on that switch. If your house batteries are floating at 13.3 +/-, like they should be, depending on air temperature, that is too much for the switch.

A 'Bago dealer replaced the first switch, factory service replaced the 2nd switch, I replaced the 3rd switch, all in the first 2 years. I came up with the fix mentioned by the ATC person independently. I inserted an inexpensive silicon diode in series with the +12 VDC line before the switch. Silicone diodes drop .7 VDC across them nominally. (13.3 minus .7 = 12.6, the switch is happy!) The switch is now cool and the switch is now 4 years old.

I believe you have a hot switch; it may depend on how often you have it turned on. When we are parked, ours is on.

Radio Shack has what you need.

[SVTotem]

Amanda,
Don't be so hard on your self. Your description was correct for my 05 Journey where the switch along with the engine heater switch are mounted separately from the One Place Panel.