Water Heater Wireing Harness in 35U

[NeilV]

Got the Green Light with No Ignition problem on my Atwood 10 Gal DSI Water Heater and it is not the the fuse or bad grounds.

I can run the water heater by providing 12 volts at the fuse with a battery or by running a wire from the water heater switch in the One Place to the fuse and every thing works fine.

I have jumpered all the connectors in the harness except for the one that is on top of the heater which I can not easily get to.

Has anyone found a way to snake that connector over the top of the water pump panel so you don't have to one hand it while lying in your back in the pass through section of the bay?

It looks like road splash from the front wheel got to it and caused some corrosion. I was going to pull the water heater however the initial attempt makes it seem doubtfull that it will stay in any usable condition if I do. I was able to unplug it and reconnect it several times with one hand but that was only enough to spread the corrosion and cause more resistance.

I may end up trying to pull the strain relief and fish a longer wire just for the switched lead so I can splice it into the harness in a more accessable location.

Hope I don't have to run a new wire all the way from the front of the coach to the back hall where the switch in the OnePlace is located.

[NeilV]

Got the Green Light with No Ignition problem on my Atwood 10 Gal DSI Water Heater and it is not the the fuse or bad grounds.

I can run the water heater by providing 12 volts at the fuse with a battery or by running a wire from the water heater switch in the One Place to the fuse and every thing works fine.

I have jumpered all the connectors in the harness except for the one that is on top of the heater which I can not easily get to.

Has anyone found a way to snake that connector over the top of the water pump panel so you don't have to one hand it while lying in your back in the pass through section of the bay?

It looks like road splash from the front wheel got to it and caused some corrosion. I was going to pull the water heater however the initial attempt makes it seem doubtfull that it will stay in any usable condition if I do. I was able to unplug it and reconnect it several times with one hand but that was only enough to spread the corrosion and cause more resistance.

I may end up trying to pull the strain relief and fish a longer wire just for the switched lead so I can splice it into the harness in a more accessable location.

Hope I don't have to run a new wire all the way from the front of the coach to the back hall where the switch in the OnePlace is located.

[NeilV]

I got it. I cut a small notch in the top of the panel where the water pump is mounted near to the bay door with a sawzall and got the connector to pass through. I did have to adjust the strain relief in the water heater to get an extra bit of cable to pull. Cleaned up the pins and coated them with a small dab of dielectric grease and all is fine.

[bruceh]

Glad to hear it.

Where exactly was the corrosion? I need to start looking as my coach is the same age as yours.

[NeilV]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by bruceh:
Glad to hear it.

Where exactly was the corrosion? I need to start looking as my coach is the same age as yours. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The connector is above the top of the water heater. You can't get at it directly unless you cut a notch as I did or possibly by removing the vent under the fold up table behind the copilots seat.

I could not see it at first and had to crawl on my back onto the platform behind the water heater and feel for it. I am a size 48 so it is a very tight fit for me.

Mine had started acting up after every driving rain and I had imagined the worst, that is was the igniter board acting up at $100 to $200+ for a replacement. Thankfully it was just a bit of sweat and a few cents worth of dielectric grease which I always keep in stock in my garage.

Will have to seal things up better and replace the front mud flaps the previous owner removed.

I am almost done catching up on the chassis maintenance also. Just flushed and refilled the brakes, transmission and rear axel. That synthetic axel lube speced by Ford is a bit pricey however changing it out every 3 years is still a lot cheaper than replacing the rear axel. Changed the engine and generator oil/filters too.