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Old 01-23-2020, 04:34 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WyCamper View Post
"Throne and thrown are two words that are pronounced in the same fashion but are spelled differently and have different meanings, which makes them homophones. We will examine the definitions of throne and thrown, where these words came from and some examples of their use in sentences....
Nothing for me to add on the toilet question, but this gave me a chuckle. Reminds me of the meme I recently saw:

Your dinner.
You're dinner.

One is nutritious.
The other means you are dead.

Grammar is important.
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Old 01-23-2020, 04:40 PM   #58
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The earliest citation of throne meaning toilet is from James Joyce's Ulysses: "With beaded mitre and with crozier, stalled upon his throne, widower of a widowed see, with upstiffed omophorion, with clotted hinderparts."
This is a G-rated forum. Let's not have any talk about upstiffed omophorions here. And let's just leave the homophones out of it.


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Old 01-23-2020, 04:49 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by walt_embree View Post
Yup, sounds as if your mind is made up on your first question . . .
Sounded to me like "I have this idea, I'm leaning towards doing it, can anyone change my mind?" It's a great way to test your own thinking.
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:06 PM   #60
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Residential toilets have a built in trap that holds water to keep sewer gases from entering your home.
RV toilets do not hold water and do not have a trap.
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:16 PM   #61
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Well, you could source an Old Microphor LF 220 ceramic, electric toilet like Country Coach used in my old rig. Probably in a Newel junk yard...... They used these toilets also.

I think these toilets were used in railroad passenger cars and yachts also.

Its cost was in excess of $1,500 new. I have put $400+ into parts recently to repair the toilet.

But, it is a really nice home style Throne......

http://edmullaney.com/Manuals/24155_...or_to_2005.pdf
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:35 PM   #62
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While your RV is in storage the water in the P-trap will evaporate, causing horrendous stench when you arrive to use it. This used to happen in 4 weeks in my mother's upstairs bathroom as it was never used.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:04 PM   #63
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You cannot see down the hole like normal to see if there is a blockage or room left to commit to a dump of gallons of black water down the hole or all over your floor depending on how water tight the connection was made.

If you fail to winterize properly ,the tank will crack open or lose heat too long.The whole toilet will be ruined if it’s a new one piece.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:06 PM   #64
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Go for it!
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:09 PM   #65
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Let's reverse the idea

Rather than asking us to tell you why you can't - do it and let us know how it worked out. Facts will supersede supposition and we'll all have a better idea of the options available!
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:31 PM   #66
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Wife here. Our 2002 Newmar Dutchstar came with a ceramic toilet. We still have it. Works for me....and my husband. If we need a new toilet, we will buy one of the new, high end RV ceramic toilets.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:35 PM   #67
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Can you install a residential toilet in an RV? Of course. Should you? Depends.

Sounds like you already decided to install the residential, so please go ahead and let us know how it works. When you're done keep a log of the water usage and post it for future reference.

I agree with lots of what's been said already - if you're usually hooked up to sewer & water you should have no problems.

However, if you are going to be running from your tanks, I'd advise you get some real-world numbers to work with. Not sure who told you that an RV toilet uses about 3 pints per flush - ours uses much less. An RV toilet will flush with less than a pint of water. Possibly as little as a cup if one is boon docking and takes steps to conserve water.

A residential toilet using 0.8 g/flush will be consuming much more water. If you change the water level to as low a level as you're talking about, you might find that you don't get a complete flush. I tried that once at home to conserve water and we ended up using nearly as much since multiple flushes were needed. If you flush as frequently as your earlier post states, you will empty that fresh water tank pretty quickly.

Good luck.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:38 PM   #68
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Late to the conversation, and didn't read the entire thread, but the reason we have (two) Tecma toilets. They are necessary as the waste out plumbing is not the 4" as found on a home plumbing system, but are only 2". You can't move solid waste in a 2" sewer pipe so you need a macerater pump to reduce it to liquid that will flow. Neither of our toilets are that close to the black tank (one is closer but the other is a distance away.)

Now, I was worried when I got this coach that they'd be a problem. However they've taken everything I can throw at it without much of a hitch. We've clogged up a few times, but it is not difficult to clear a clog (turn off water, break up whatever is in the bowl and reflush... You turn off the water so it won't overflow...)

Now if your toilet is located over the black tank you probably could install anything, but if you have a big coach with proper plumbing it will be hard to convert...
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:26 PM   #69
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I don't know 'bout the Concerto, but I can think of a number of reasons not to use a residential unit. First, flush volume, second,water storage - residential toiilets have a water storage tank that fills based on the height of a floating ball or other device. As this stored water sloshes around, if you have your water pressure turned on, the storage tank will continue to try to filll and the contained water will try to slosh out. Residential toilets are not designed to be used in moving vehicles. There may be an appropriate replacement for what you have, but I wouldn't recommend a residential unit.
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:33 PM   #70
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I did not read through all the replies however a residential siphon feed toilet with a trap is a fairly delicate item to put in a vehicle and aside from the chance of regular tank breakage while driving there will be the need to deal with removing the water in the tank and bowl before driving off as the jostling while driving will always be there to cause problems at the worst possible time.

Just get a more conventional, more reliable and more easily repaired if it ever needs be comfort height RV toilet. My old reliable comfort height manual flush RV china toilet has been utterly reliable and worry free with parts, if I ever need them, in stock at RV dealers all across the US.

The KISS principle applies even more so when you camp in out of the way places.

You really do not want a tank, siphon valve, float and all the linkages of a residential toilet getting tossed about in an RV/Motor Home being driven into a remote area. Those get messed up in residential use just from flipping the handle too briskly and are prone to running-on too easily. Imagine a flapper valve not seating or the float linkage failing/sticking (a way to regular residential toilet fail) allowing your 100 gallons of fresh water to go down into your 40 gallon black tank when you out in the boondocks.
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