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Old 02-20-2019, 08:00 AM   #239
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well my friend I have replaced this from Winnebago
bezel 135742-35-02A $3.60
switch 135740-06-01A $7.40
base 135741-01-01A $1.00
ordered through WWW.winnebagooutdoor.com good luck and all you need to do is just pull off the switch cover and unscrew the base
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:42 AM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htbotdvr View Post
well my friend I have replaced this from Winnebago
bezel 135742-35-02A $3.60
switch 135740-06-01A $7.40
base 135741-01-01A $1.00
ordered through WWW.winnebagooutdoor.com good luck and all you need to do is just pull off the switch cover and unscrew the base
My Winnebago parts list for 2008 39Z has the replacement Rocker as 135740-06-01A. Switch - Rocker - on/off - lighted - red
With a base of 135741-01-01a

Amazon has the switch for $7.40. Do a search for the Winnebago part #. This one is lighted.

Check your parts manual.
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:38 AM   #241
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ok jengle what's your point I was helping an rv er with a problem so check you own parts manual
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Old 02-22-2019, 06:32 PM   #242
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Originally Posted by htbotdvr View Post
ok jengle what's your point I was helping an rv er with a problem so check you own parts manual
The part number and website listed are not what matches the RV er's question. That's the point.
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Old 02-23-2019, 08:07 AM   #243
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guess I cant read BUT the numbers look the same
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:54 AM   #244
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Looks great. Lots of reading info. Thanks
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Old 04-08-2019, 05:14 PM   #245
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Anyone replace an Electric Water heater On/Off Switch? Ours doesn't light when turned on, which I believe that it is suppose too. I would really like to have some kind of visual sign that it is turned on, because I will more then likely forget about it and end up burning out my heating elements. If you have part# or a place to order it from it would be appreciated.

Also, how do you remove it? On mine, it seem the top part of the cover is already broken and is loose, but the bottom is on tight and I am afraid of breaking it if not done right.

Thanks
The water heater light goes out once the pilot is lit. Being on is a warning that you may have gas running to an unlit pilot.
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Old 05-05-2019, 06:38 PM   #246
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Because I have to maneuver into a very tight spot at home, I added a 'back up camera', but it's pointed towards the front. It's mounted in the grill pointed pretty much straight down, which gives me a great view of the front bumper, so I can get within inches of an obstacle like I need to get to my parking place.

THAT gave me one more thing plugged in to a power point (cigarette lighter) than I could stand to look at. So I bought this 5 gang switch from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I cut the ends off all of the power cords for my devices and wired them in to this switch box.
One of the switches I rewired to be a master switch for everything else in the box, turn it off and everything is completely powered down - which I use for storage.

I built a wooden box just big enough to hold the switches, painted it black to match the insets in the dash, and mounted it to the driver's sidewall, just in front of, and level with the top of, the driver's armrest. (I've got a buddy who does seat covers for boats and cars, I'm going to get some black vinyl from him to 'soften' this up a little.)

This makes a MUCH neater overall dashboard, and makes it easier to turn things on and off as I need them. For instance the previously mentioned bumper cam I only need for specific maneuvers, it doesn't need to be on all the time when I'm driving.

In the 5th tow truck I have: dash camera, review camera monitor, Cell booster, GPS, TPMS, engine performance unit, etc. This was going to be way too many wires. I used a piggy back ATO fuse extension in the main fuse panel that is only hot with engine running. Took that lead to a 40 amp relay to activate a 40 amp lead from the battery to a Blue Sea 12 position fuse panel under my center console. Every goody device is attached there with its own fuse plus a couple extra 12 power outlets near the passenger seat for USB stuff. Works real nice and those wires are all hidden.
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Old 05-05-2019, 06:52 PM   #247
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In our Minnie 22R I added a residential Watts pressure regulator, a while house water filter, a two gallon pressure tank and a water pressure gauge all under the rear bench seat seat.


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Old 05-05-2019, 07:05 PM   #248
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Originally Posted by rarebear.nm View Post
In our Minnie 22R I added a residential Watts pressure regulator, a while house water filter, a two gallon pressure tank and a water pressure gauge all under the rear bench seat seat.


Attachment 244927
Great job!!
Very nicely done.
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Old 05-11-2019, 08:43 AM   #249
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How To Play Music Outside?

Is there a way to have the dash radio play outside via the TV soundbar on my Ellipse?
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Old 05-17-2019, 06:35 AM   #250
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Tankless waterheater fiasco!

My 2015 Itasca 37f came with a tankless waterheater. After $800 + in attemted repairs and another failure, i oppted to convert a simple tank type. The tankless as designed was totally useless since water flow required to start the heater was so high it would drain the fresh water tank with VERY little use. I found a compatent mobile repair service and the conversion cost about $1450 which included matching the two tone coach paint. I have heard rumors about a class action suit against Winnebago for this edeal. Anybody have knowledge of that?
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Old 07-21-2019, 07:34 PM   #251
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slide out failure

2007 Itasca Class A, model 35A. Pantry room slide fail. It appears that the main drive for the pantry slide is the front arm. Was used a few weeks ago, worked great. Today, the front arm is functioning but the rear arm is failing 'to keep up to front' when pushing in / out buttons. I did the override, both LEDs flash - but only front drive arm is performing. The rear arm when pushing (override) button fails, can hear motor turning.

Took exterior panels off to access Manual Mode / crank handles inserted but again only front arm will engage.

At this point the pantry room slide is extended about 6" and I can't go anywhere.


help please
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:38 AM   #252
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...you may have a stripped pinion gear on the rear slide. Using the motor or crank on the front and a second person pushing in toward the MH on the rear, see if you can't get the slide retracted. Use a slide lock to secure the slide from the interior while driving and find a repair facility.
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