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Old 08-14-2016, 04:35 PM   #85
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Transfer switch and progressive power monitor installed in 2016 View, toggle switch is for generator isolation. Cord and water hose are relocated to bay mod, see picture in next post.
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:45 PM   #86
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Modified this panel for cord and hose storage, panel is hinged from factory but bracketed shut. Black tank is in this area.
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Old 08-14-2016, 08:50 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slydog View Post
Modified this panel for cord and hose storage, panel is hinged from factory but bracketed shut. Black tank is in this area.
Looks great Lee! What did you use for the hose/cord hangers? Are they store bought or custom made? Neat job

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Old 08-15-2016, 06:35 AM   #88
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Looks great Lee! What did you use for the hose/cord hangers? Are they store bought or custom made? Neat job

Regards,
W.D.
2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD
Made those myself but many similar ones on Internet. Secure at top and tuck behind tank straps, they fit against door. Add a gas shock, same as gen door.
If you space a little more apart you could add a water filter in center.

Hinges are there already, use the same strut bracket top and bottom, top secures to side of hinge. Hasp on left side, doesn't show. Good luck
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Old 09-03-2016, 10:39 AM   #89
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2016 Navion 24 V - Install Sani-con Box

1. Disconnect grey water drain line from black water tank drain .
2. Remove black water drain at valve by removing 4 bolts that hold drain to valve.
3. Replace drain with Valterra RV Sanitation Reducing Tee - 3" Bayonet x 3" Rotating Flange x 1-1/2" Hub (Part number T10011 from e-trailer.)
4. Attach Grey water drain line. I used a threaded PVC fitting, sanded to fit into the reducing tee, PVC to ASB glue was used to secure.
5. The existing storage for the 3” flexible drain is not needed. Cut the plastic storage “box” such that the box is about half its height. use zip ties to hold the bottom and top halves of the box together. Cut a hole in the bottom near the side panel for the Sani-con drain line to pass thru.
6. The reshaped box will store the Sani-con drain line and allow it to be easily pulled out for use.
7. Make a 1” solid plug to keep the Sanicon drain from “dripping” when stored.
8. The Sani-con sewer “head” can be stored in a cargo bay.
9. The Sani-con pump unit is mounted to the side of the cargo bay on “L” shaped brackets. The brackets will extend 2-3” inches below the bottom of the cargo bay. The inlet to the Sani-con points to the left side of the RV. The Sani-con supplied hose connects to the reducing tee, oriented to point to the left and is bent 180 degrees to connect to the Sani-con inlet. The hose may need to be trimmed for a good fit. The hose should be approximately level from the reducing tee to the Sani-con and a little lower than the bottom of the black water tank.
10. Power is easily routed to the house batteries.
11. A secondary cut off switch can be placed in the power feed and mounted in the tank bay. This makes turning the unit on/off easier than having to reach into the bay to get to the switch on the Sani-con pump housing.
12. To dump, I drop the Sani-con drain hose thru the hole in the modified storage box, connect the sewer “head” and place in the campground sewer pipe. This allow for better draining of the line before returning it to the storage box.
13. I dump the black water, leave the gate valve open and pump some grey water into the black tank to help flush the black tank. I do this a couple of times, then close the black water gate valve and finish dumping the grey water. (I plan to add a black water tank flush to use also)
14. To store I pass the end of the Sani-con drain hose thru the hole in the bottom the storage box and pull it out the side opening. I hold on to the hose near the side opening and “snake” the hose into the storage box. Place the plug in the end of the drain hose and put the Sani-con sewer head in the cargo bay.
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Old 09-03-2016, 11:22 AM   #90
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I have a 2008 Winnebago Destination 39W Diesel. The original Berber carpet was replaced with vinyl flooring. This flooring bubbles and tears when the slides come in/out. I would like to find an alternate flooring that can be installed which will hold up to the weight of the slides. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:16 PM   #91
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Old 09-08-2016, 05:15 PM   #92
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Added vertical tail lights to improve visibility when towing.
The housing are fabricated out of epoxy resin Fiberglas.
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:14 PM   #93
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Has anyone seen this before?

Hi All!

I own a 2016 Suncruiser 38Q. Today, after refilling washer fluid, I closed the hood and heard a wham bam clang. Lo and behold, the passenger side hood latch mechanism fell off. Literally. It seems some bright star in design and engineering thought that it would be a good idea to bond (glue) the mechanism to the inner surface of the fiberglass cap.

It seems logical to me that it is not a great idea at all. Does anyone have ideas regarding the best bonding agent to use to put it back? I am considering 3M 08101 as it is intended for structural bonding. I have not heard back from Winnebago.

I want so bad to scream at my dealer, but it is not their fault this assembly fell off. In the past, the dealer's ability to do anything well has been limited and on our big trip this year we found the wonderful Winnebago dealer network that was so bragged upon prior to the sale to be just as helpful (not). I am very handy and have been taking several things in stride fixing them when the dealers could (would) not. Leaking shower manifold, thermostat problems, holding tanks inaccurate levels, AC problems, replacement of the large LCD screen in the dash, etc. My dealer basically washed their hands on the LCD screen as their original repair broke within 100 miles of repair. This being a new bus however, makes me wary of the future. I expect some problems, but I am beginning to think I picked the wrong manufacturer.

Since it seems I am on my own, I am open to ideas. It is going to screw up the aesthetic, but I want to consider drilling the fiberglass and use a large doubling plate with flat washer and nylock nut to attach this assembly. Ideally if I could find some flat piece with a chrome cover, that might look better. I am just afraid the glue is going to break again. Hood is not light and a lot of impact is imparted by the road. If I do both sides symmetrically it should look ok if I drill, but I would much rather glue because if I trade this thing soon, it can't look anything other than stock.
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:22 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpcoleman View Post
Hi All!

I own a 2016 Suncruiser 38Q. Today, after refilling washer fluid, I closed the hood and heard a wham bam clang. Lo and behold, the passenger side hood latch mechanism fell off. Literally. It seems some bright star in design and engineering thought that it would be a good idea to bond (glue) the mechanism to the inner surface of the fiberglass cap.

It seems logical to me that it is not a great idea at all. Does anyone have ideas regarding the best bonding agent to use to put it back? I am considering 3M 08101 as it is intended for structural bonding. I have not heard back from Winnebago.

I want so bad to scream at my dealer, but it is not their fault this assembly fell off. In the past, the dealer's ability to do anything well has been limited and on our big trip this year we found the wonderful Winnebago dealer network that was so bragged upon prior to the sale to be just as helpful (not). I am very handy and have been taking several things in stride fixing them when the dealers could (would) not. Leaking shower manifold, thermostat problems, holding tanks inaccurate levels, AC problems, replacement of the large LCD screen in the dash, etc. My dealer basically washed their hands on the LCD screen as their original repair broke within 100 miles of repair. This being a new bus however, makes me wary of the future. I expect some problems, but I am beginning to think I picked the wrong manufacturer.

Since it seems I am on my own, I am open to ideas. It is going to screw up the aesthetic, but I want to consider drilling the fiberglass and use a large doubling plate with flat washer and nylock nut to attach this assembly. Ideally if I could find some flat piece with a chrome cover, that might look better. I am just afraid the glue is going to break again. Hood is not light and a lot of impact is imparted by the road. If I do both sides symmetrically it should look ok if I drill, but I would much rather glue because if I trade this thing soon, it can't look anything other than stock.
There is another recent thread in the Winnebago forum about this problem, you are not the only one that has had the OEM adhesive attachment to the cap fail that discusses products others have used to re-secure the mechanism bracket to the back of the cap, without running fasteners thru the cap and changing the appearance. Some have also added safety cables, too, so they can't fall and be lost or damage radiators.
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:19 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
There is another recent thread in the Winnebago forum about this problem, you are not the only one that has had the OEM adhesive attachment to the cap fail that discusses products others have used to re-secure the mechanism bracket to the back of the cap, without running fasteners thru the cap and changing the appearance. Some have also added safety cables, too, so they can't fall and be lost or damage radiators.
.

I've been eyeballing mine and wondering how long that deal would last. Good idea on the safety lanyard......
.
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Old 09-12-2016, 04:24 PM   #96
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I took mine into the garage, prepped it and ran a bead of 3M 5200 around all the framework and clamped it in place for a week

In the back I used Stainless wide head rivets on the side of the dope that cannot be seen at all
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Old 09-21-2016, 06:14 AM   #97
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I used the 3m panel bonding adhesive 3 years ago on mine. No problems since. Primary is preparation. The factory glues it in with the adhesive on paint. I sandblasted mine, primed it with a Nason 2k primer sealer made for bare metal. Clamped over night. I've had several joints come loose on other parts of the coach and resolved each one this way.


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Old 09-28-2016, 09:49 PM   #98
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So, I used 3M 08101 and brushed the finish off the bracket. Set it in a healthy puddle of bonding agent to keep water out. All good now. WB even will reimburse me for the cost of the adhesive they said. All smiles now, but still can't believe they used this method of attachment. Original failure was delamination of the coating used.
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