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Old 06-30-2013, 10:30 PM   #15
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Sorry, I intended to say that I will check to see where the battery is located and make sure I have a spare. Thanks again.
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:31 PM   #16
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Sorry, I intended to say that I will check to see where the battery is located and make sure I have a spare. Thanks again.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:10 AM   #17
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42qd Bath trim working away from wall

This wood trim in my 42qd bath would keep working its way from the wall. I removed it and used a cutting wheel to cut the 6 nails off rather than pulling them out. Found out that when I placed it back to inspect the fit it was cut incorrectly. The left bevel cut that goes behind the door jam was holding the rest of the trim away from the wall. I could push it to the wall but it was binding out. I trimmed the left bevel edge so that the trim then would lay in place without force. After reinstalling it hasn't pulled away. I read somewhere on here of someone having this problem as well.

Jesse
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:49 AM   #18
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This wood trim in my 42qd bath would keep working its way from the wall. I removed it and used a cutting wheel to cut the 6 nails off rather than pulling them out. Found out that when I placed it back to inspect the fit it was cut incorrectly. The left bevel cut that goes behind the door jam was holding the rest of the trim away from the wall. I could push it to the wall but it was binding out. I trimmed the left bevel edge so that the trim then would lay in place without force. After reinstalling it hasn't pulled away. I read somewhere on here of someone having this problem as well.

Jesse
I have had to remove and trim many pieces of quarter round and crown molding in my 42QD. Just lazy work by the installer at the factory.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:28 PM   #19
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I used silicone to keep my loose trim in place. Not pretty, but it works.
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:38 PM   #20
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Thank you for your feedback. It makes sense that if the radio buttons control the radio via an RF signal then the buttons may not light up with the other steering wheel buttons. I'll check to see if the radio buttons are battery powered.
Yep. Steering wheel radio buttons are battery powered and do not light up at night. You either have to memorize the buttons or hit your Map light.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:12 AM   #21
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Has anyone insulated the front cap? it lets in a lot of heat. Also has anyone made a cover or blocked off the opening from basement to hall bath/kitchen slide,when we open the cabinet under the sink it feels like a heater while the basement feels very airconditioned
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:25 AM   #22
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Has anyone insulated the front cap? it lets in a lot of heat. Also has anyone made a cover or blocked off the opening from basement to hall bath/kitchen slide,when we open the cabinet under the sink it feels like a heater while the basement feels very airconditioned
I feel a lot of heat coming from my front cap also. I don't see how a person could insulate it without taking the cap off.

The opening in the basement looks like a bad design to me. I had some grey boat cover material which I used to cover the hole. Works ok, I used industrial strength Velcro to attach to the edges of the opening. I can still feel cold air coming from inside the RV, but not as much.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:13 AM   #23
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Hi fla tom
I keep all blinds closed in front and it helps in hot areas. We have found that we can't keep anything that will melt in the slide cabinets. In our last coach I cut insulation board to fit in the back wall of all cabinets and it helped very much. I will eventually do the same with this coach. I haven't found the need yet to block off the opening under the sink. If all of the cargo door seals are good and all access openings are closed you shouldn't have excessive air if any coming in at the hall bath/kitchen slide.

Jesse

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Has anyone insulated the front cap? it lets in a lot of heat. Also has anyone made a cover or blocked off the opening from basement to hall bath/kitchen slide,when we open the cabinet under the sink it feels like a heater while the basement feels very airconditioned
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:15 AM   #24
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I feel a lot of heat coming from my front cap also. I don't see how a person could insulate it without taking the cap off.

The opening in the basement looks like a bad design to me. I had some grey boat cover material which I used to cover the hole. Works ok, I used industrial strength Velcro to attach to the edges of the opening. I can still feel cold air coming from inside the RV, but not as much.
when I swapped out the king dome for the travler antenna I removed the trim and screws (inside) at the rear of the front cap area provided enough room to fit insulation (I should have done it at the time) to remove the whole ceiling would require removing the cabinets your idea with the velcroed boat cover is good I wonder if reflective insulation would work as good
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:22 PM   #25
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If your driver's side mirror falls apart like ours did, replacement isn't difficult. It never was damaged, it just dropped the upper glass, then the back cover. You'll need to buy a whole new mirror. You can't buy the parts.

Our local dealer quoted $1460 for the mirror. Lichtsinn had it for $1077.30, saving me almost $400.

There are four allen bolts to remove. The connections involve three sets of wires. The smallest one can be handled from the outside, but the other two need to be connected inside. To get to the connections, remove the four phillips screws from the footrest to the left of the brake pedal. With some poking around, you'll find them.

I just cut the wires from the old mirror rather than have my wife hold the mirror while I searched. That made finding the connections a little easier since I just needed to find the cut wires and see where they went.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:55 PM   #26
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another quality job by the best in the business.
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:46 PM   #27
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Thought someone might like this.

Jesse
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:51 PM   #28
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Wanted to attach 4 pictures but it only would post 1.
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