Winnebago Tour Tips

[Gordon Dewald]

Originally Posted by Jbmsr

Gordon
My controller is in the water pump compartment on the upper right way in the back. Attachment 260445Attachment 260446
Jesse

Thanks. Will be looking for it this morning.

[Jbmsr]

In January my dash AC was not cooling as well as it had so after checking, it was short on 134a. I added a small amount along with a leak detecting dye. It worked better until May and the stopped cooling all together even after adding freon.

With a black light you can see where it had been leaking at the hose to compressor nut.
Vibration over time can cause them to loosen.
I decided to replace the compressor, dryer, and the expansion valve to be sure I didn’t miss anything. I also flushed the ac lines from rear to front with acetone. After seeing what came out it was a good move. after replacing the new parts and sealing the system I pulled a vacuum for two hours, added the correct amount of freon and oil. Not a bad idea to clean the condenser fan located forwarding of the drive axel. .

Conclusion
Parts were very responsible
Blows colder than new.
Weighing the installed Freon with a $39.00 scale from staples took all guessing out.
Good idea to run the dash AC at least monthly to keep the seals lubricated.

Readers:
this rig is not one to take lightly getting under without adequate Suport. If the airbags dump it can crush you.

Jesse

[marco1b]

Can't figure out how to start a new thread so hit the reply button.

I screwed up today and now I'm I dead in the water. Upon leaving the fuel station today, noticed the step was down and would not retract. Stopped the coach and could not get the step to retract. Open the fuse panel (on the DS) to look for a possible loose wire or bad step. Since i forgot to switch off the main chassis switch it caused a spark/short and now I have no dash light, or way to start the engine. I checked all fuses on the DS, front and back including the 300amp in line fuse and all have continuity. Called Freightliner and we swapped a number of the relays related to ignition with other relays that matched the specs, like left turn signal etc still nothing. Moved the coach (house) wiring harness, to the Chassis Switch and it lit up so to me, says the switch is not the problem. Any additions ideas would be appreciated. Thank You!!

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by marco1b

Can't figure out how to start a new thread so hit the reply button.



I screwed up today and now I'm I dead in the water. Upon leaving the fuel station today, noticed the step was down and would not retract. Stopped the coach and could not get the step to retract. Open the fuse panel (on the DS) to look for a possible loose wire or bad step. Since i forgot to switch off the main chassis switch it caused a spark/short and now I have no dash light, or way to start the engine. I checked all fuses on the DS, front and back including the 300amp in line fuse and all have continuity. Called Freightliner and we swapped a number of the relays related to ignition with other relays that matched the specs, like left turn signal etc still nothing. Moved the coach (house) wiring harness, to the Chassis Switch and it lit up so to me, says the switch is not the problem. Any additions ideas would be appreciated. Thank You!!

The coach and chassis are powered from battery’s through on/off contactors operated by the on/off switches. Check that you have power going to them. Are they clicking?
That would explain why you can switch the harness and you have power.

Your step will work with both the chassis and coach battery switches off/ separate issue
The failsafe is no matter what , your step should retract when you turn the ignition on but it didn’t. I would guess bad step motor.
Jesse

[marco1b]

Originally Posted by Jbmsr

The coach and chassis are powered from battery’s through on/off contactors operated by the on/off switches. Check that you have power going to them. Are they clicking?
That would explain why you can switch the harness and you have power.

Your step will work with both the chassis and coach battery switches off/ separate issue
The failsafe is no matter what , your step should retract when you turn the ignition on but it didn’t. I would guess bad step motor.
Jesse

Thanks Jesse, its been awhile. There is no noticabler clicking that results from hitting the switch. Do you know where I would find the on/off contactors operated by the on/off switches to check them for power?

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by marco1b

Thanks Jesse, its been awhile. There is no noticabler clicking that results from hitting the switch. Do you know where I would find the on/off contactors operated by the on/off switches to check them for power?

The contators are located in the driver side front cargo behind the electrical panel. They click loudly. Have someone switch the coach
Battery on/off while you listen on the ds.

Then same with chassis.

If one does not click it is most likely missing 12 v power
Jesse

[marco1b]

Originally Posted by Jbmsr

The contators are located in the driver side front cargo behind the electrical panel. They click loudly. Have someone switch the coach
Battery on/off while you listen on the ds.

Then same with chassis.

If one does not click it is most likely missing 12 v power
Jesse

Thanks Jesse, when moving either the "coach" or "chassis" switches I do not hear clicking behind the front fuse panel but I do hear clicking in the back (on from both switches), next to the battery isolator. The clicking seems to be coming from the black Relays, which are labeled Load 14V/Coil 14V on/off. On. also when I put the step switch in the setting to open and close with the door it is now working.

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by marco1b

Thanks Jesse, when moving either the "coach" or "chassis" switches I do not hear clicking behind the front fuse panel but I do hear clicking in the back (on from both switches), next to the battery isolator. The clicking seems to be coming from the black Relays, which are labeled Load 14V/Coil 14V on/off. On. also when I put the step switch in the setting to open and close with the door it is now working.

You may have a toasted relay due to letting the smoke out. I would check the clicking relay first. 12v in / then 12v out when battery switch on.
Jesse

[Wayne M]

Oh my, escaped smoke. It needs to be sent back to Asia so they can repack it with more smoke. Good luck,

[RVtrader]

My HDMI cable went bad to the main TV in the couch and needs replacing.

Any one every replaced theirs?
I just would like to know how it is routed up and across or down under

any advice i would greatly appreciate

[Lv2Roam2]

There may be a spare cable already in place. Look behind the matrix box for a cable with an end-protector on it - it may be red, yellow or blue.

If your QD is like mine the TV end of the cable is under the removable panel behind the TV (under the safe). You may have to fish the end out of an access hole where all the other wires route down into the space behind the fireplace.

[marco1b]

Originally Posted by marco1b

Can't figure out how to start a new thread so hit the reply button.

I screwed up today and now I'm I dead in the water. Upon leaving the fuel station today, noticed the step was down and would not retract. Stopped the coach and could not get the step to retract. Open the fuse panel (on the DS) to look for a possible loose wire or bad step. Since i forgot to switch off the main chassis switch it caused a spark/short and now I have no dash light, or way to start the engine. I checked all fuses on the DS, front and back including the 300amp in line fuse and all have continuity. Called Freightliner and we swapped a number of the relays related to ignition with other relays that matched the specs, like left turn signal etc still nothing. Moved the coach (house) wiring harness, to the Chassis Switch and it lit up so to me, says the switch is not the problem. Any additions ideas would be appreciated. Thank You!!

Update: Problem fixed. After much testing, determined that the 150amp "Mega/AMG" located on the drivers side rear (under red rubber cover) was blown. Replaced the fuse and everything works. Not sure why the step didn't come in earlier but now does. If you want to carry any spare "Mega/AMG" fuses they can be found at O'Reilly's Auto for $4.99 each. Finding it to be a challenge to find the 15 amp square push button fuses in a stores.

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by marco1b

Update: Problem fixed. After much testing, determined that the 150amp "Mega/AMG" located on the drivers side rear (under red rubber cover) was blown. Replaced the fuse and everything works. Not sure why the step didn't come in earlier but now does. If you want to carry any spare "Mega/AMG" fuses they can be found at O'Reilly's Auto for $4.99 each. Finding it to be a challenge to find the 15 amp square push button fuses in a stores.

Hey Mark
Happy to here it was something small and y’all are back on the road. Thanks for the update and the info that will help others
Jesse

[marco1b]

Yes, good to be moving again. Say..did you get the two emails I sent a few days ago? If not, may want to check your junk mail. Mark