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Old 01-18-2020, 06:47 PM   #1037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbkahn View Post
Hello Bridluz,

Had this issue on my last coach with Coleman Mach 3. I replaced the Start Capacitor and the Run Capacitor that Jesse mentioned above. That fixed the issue. You can get these for your Coleman Mach 8 at Camping World. While you are up there, you may want to replace the Fan Capacitor but I have never had any issues with that capacitor and your fan runs, so this may not be necessary.

Here are some instructions i wrote up a few years ago for replacing the Capacitors.

Both capacitors cost about $60 or less. Be careful when installing these, unplug the RV and turn-off the AC breaker just in case. Also, when you remove the capacitors they may have voltage in them, so short the contacts together with an insulated screwdriver before you handle the wires to remove them. Remove the wires one at a time and install them on the new capacitors. Reassemble the electrical components shroud and the AC cover.

Also, I'm surprised the AC breaker did not trip.

I hope this helps.
Thanks! I tend to be handy but when it comes to electrical I am always cautious. I will open things up hopefully within a week. For $60 I'll replace as suggested. I assume the replacement parts will be shaped nearly identical to the OEM, I am not exactly sure when I see Jesse's pictures which capacitor is which. But an AC repair guys lives across the street so I may consult him for some help.
Brian
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Old 01-18-2020, 06:51 PM   #1038
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Sorry, one more question.....will the part numbers be printed on the existing capacitors?
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Old 01-18-2020, 10:55 PM   #1039
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Brian,

I believe the part numbers will be on the capacitors. I hope this fixes your problem. As stated above it could be something else, but this is probably the easiest and lowest cost thing to try first.

I checked my 2014 Build List and my Mach 8s have the following model numbers.

(2) 47073-879 with Heat Pump
(1) 47273-879 no Heat Pump

I checked the AirXcel parts list and they both use the same capacitors. Attached the .pdf parts list for the Mach 8 with Heat Pump.

Parts list shows the following capacitors in the shroud with all the wires going into it.

Part # 1499-5721 Run Capacitor (40MFD/370V)
Part # 9333-9021 Start Capacitor (88-108MFD/250V)

Good Luck. I hope this works for you, Sanford

Jesse, those photos of the Mach 8 are great + excellent info. Thanks everyone for this info.
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File Type: pdf Coleman Mach 8 470x3-87x .pdf (487.9 KB, 61 views)
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Old 01-19-2020, 12:08 AM   #1040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbmsr View Post
sbkahn
I did drill new holes in the mechanism frame only, not the coach wall beam. I wanted the new screw to bite into the wall beam, not the slide mechanism frame. I drilled between the other screws. I would do the complete length of the slide mechanism frame and use new like kind screws. Do not remove all of them at once. Leave at least one in. Their is a flat plate behind the beam that will fall if you do. I did that and man it was very difficult to get it back into place.
Notice that Winnebago didn’t pre-drill the slide mechanism first, they just used the self taping screw to go through both the slide mechanism and the coach wall beam at the same time.
That’s why the screws are retracting.

When you do this, you will be certain it will hold going forward. The new screws pull it in tight.
I used a small dewalt impact driver.

Call me any time if you need anything.

Jesse

Pm for number

Thanks for the Aquahot help
Jesse,

Thanks for all the detail on this. I appreciate it.

I checked on the coach today in storage. My issue is actually on the outside of the slide, not the frame as I originally thought.

I've attached a photo, have you or anyone seen this before?

Thanks for the help, Sanford
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Old 01-19-2020, 06:41 AM   #1041
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Same basic deal. The screws behind the molding trim that attaches the molding are retracting. Pull middle trim out.
I wouldn’t do it in cold weather. Maybe use a blow dryer and warm it up first.

Jesse
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Old 01-19-2020, 07:02 AM   #1042
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Jesse, I will try and get you a picture of the faucet today.

On the slide trim issues, I had the same thing happen to me, twice actually. Mine was on the dreaded Schwintek slide on the passenger side up closest to the entry door. I noticed the trim popping out when the slide was retracted. I ended up pre-drilling and adding 3 additional SS screws of the same length. I pre-filled all the holes with silicone, including the ones that had pulled loose. I think it happened twice because the first time I was in a rush, and only added one screw.

I will keep my eye on it.

Taking the coach to Freightliner in Gafney this coming Thursday for annual service and few issues, including the dash a/c (again!). I am hoping they can properly adjust my headlights while there, too. They are way out of whack.
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Old 01-19-2020, 09:46 AM   #1043
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Thanks Jesse and Loyd.

I'll try adding some screws + silicone or Loctite. That should keep the trim screws tight. Waiting for it to warm up here in NM.

Jesse, If you think you may have issues with your AH, I recommend calling John Carrillo @ HeatMyRV.com. He may be able to help.

Sanford
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Old 01-20-2020, 07:53 AM   #1044
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Jesse,

Here is pic....
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Old 01-20-2020, 08:19 AM   #1045
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Quote:
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Jesse,



Here is pic....


loydt
I love that!

I will be doing the same.

Thank you

Jesse
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:56 PM   #1046
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Jesse i was reading this post on the slide area coming loose when you say remove the piece you are referring to the about 3/4 cover cap the locks into the trim? i am trying to understand from the pictures but i honestly am not understanding.


Second Items on the faucets i have not looked at mine yet but i am assuming they are like my 2002 Winnie installs them just direct to the pipe using a female pipe fitting screwed onto the bottom of the faucet which has about no flexibility and if i remember almost impossible to work with. Which is extremely hard to deal with when i replaced the faucets in the 2002 i cut the pex lines installed standard faucet shut off valves and put on the normal braided hose fittings used in a normal home making the replacement standard and a whole lot easier. Just a suggestion if that is the case.
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:26 PM   #1047
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Boyland
The last post was based on the picture which was the exterior of the slide.

Thank for the tip. I like your thinking.
I will be doing that.

Jesse
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Old 01-21-2020, 07:37 AM   #1048
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Quote:
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Boyland
The last post was based on the picture which was the exterior of the slide.

Thank for the tip. I like your thinking.
I will be doing that.

Jesse

I was more curious on the trim if you had a pic with it off. I have not really looked at mine but at the very bottom i see about 1/4 gap up about 6 inches.

I was curious what you took off to repair i assume the self drill tap screws are in use but was interested in seeing it open.
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Old 01-21-2020, 04:28 PM   #1049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbkahn View Post
Brian,

I believe the part numbers will be on the capacitors. I hope this fixes your problem. As stated above it could be something else, but this is probably the easiest and lowest cost thing to try first.

I checked my 2014 Build List and my Mach 8s have the following model numbers.

(2) 47073-879 with Heat Pump
(1) 47273-879 no Heat Pump

I checked the AirXcel parts list and they both use the same capacitors. Attached the .pdf parts list for the Mach 8 with Heat Pump.

Parts list shows the following capacitors in the shroud with all the wires going into it.

Part # 1499-5721 Run Capacitor (40MFD/370V)
Part # 9333-9021 Start Capacitor (88-108MFD/250V)

Good Luck. I hope this works for you, Sanford

Jesse, those photos of the Mach 8 are great + excellent info. Thanks everyone for this info.
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Run Capacitor is confirmed 1499-5721 40MFD/370V
BUT the start capacitor I have says 1497-086 88-108MFD/165V

So my start capacitor that is installed is different than mentioned with 165V versus the mentioned 250V. Does that sound right???? Ebay has them both, the one mentioned is around $25 and the one I found matching mine is like $5. Still sound correct??? I have pics if that's helpful.

Thank you!!!! By the way my neighbor who is a HVAC service tech will help me install once I have the two capacitors.
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Old 01-21-2020, 08:19 PM   #1050
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Hey Brian, I think that will work if that's what was originally in there. As long as it's over 120v I think it will be ok. Same MFD, so should be ok. Any other opinions on this? I hope this works out for you.
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