Winnebago Tour Tips

[Electra 225]

Did you take the nut loose and raise/remove the step?

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by nova 42qd

Using the materials that were posted I was able to get the jacks to go down in Manual mode - as well as go back up again. I called Powergear and they said to check the hydraulic fluid. I took a look at the reservoir under the steps but it is hard to tell if its full. Also the cap did not seem to come off. If I were to get it off it looks difficult to fill.



Any tips or tricks here?



Thanks.

Nova you must first retract all Hydrolic jacks before checking the fluid level.

Lippert
https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...aintenance.pdf

Winnebago
CHECKING HYDRAULIC OIL
LEVEL
See the Leveling System Operation Guide provided in your InfoCase for complete maintenance instructions and information.
All maintenance should be done as part of the normal servicing of the coach.
The hydraulic oil level should be checked when the vehicle is first purchased, and then twice a year - or more often if an oil leak develops in the system.
The hydraulic pump is located beneath the entrance step. Lift step cover and remove storage bin (if equipped) to access.
NOTE: To get an accurate indication of oil level, Leveling Jacks must be in the retracted (IN) position.
Checking Hydraulic Oil Level
The hydraulic oil level is checked visually by inspecting the hydraulic oil reservoir. Always keep the hydraulic oil level full (to the lip of the breather cap).
NOTE: Always clean away any dirt and debris from the top of the reservoir before removing the breather cap to avoid entry of debris and contamination of hydraulic oil in the reservoir, which could lead to pump failure or other problems

Jesse

[nova 42qd]

Retracted the jacks and checked the fluid in the tank under the steps. Its low. It looks like the big nut shaped cap just pops off.

Dexron 3 or Dexron 5 - which is better to use?

Thanks.

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by nova 42qd

Retracted the jacks and checked the fluid in the tank under the steps. Its low. It looks like the big nut shaped cap just pops off.



Dexron 3 or Dexron 5 - which is better to use?



Thanks.

Nova

Dexron[emoji768] III

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0002088.pdf

Jesse

[nova 42qd]

Problem solved. I added hydraulic fluid - it was just a little low but enough to cause the problem. Seems strange they do not have a better diagnostic for this.

The cap on the tank for the hydraulic fluid is strange. It is a plastic hex nut shaped knob that does not unscrew. It pops off but not easily. Its just small enough that its difficult to get a good grip on it.

I carefully pryed it with a small screw driver to get it started. Seems like they could do something better.

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by nova 42qd

Problem solved. I added hydraulic fluid - it was just a little low but enough to cause the problem. Seems strange they do not have a better diagnostic for this.



The cap on the tank for the hydraulic fluid is strange. It is a plastic hex nut shaped knob that does not unscrew. It pops off but not easily. Its just small enough that its difficult to get a good grip on it.



I carefully pryed it with a small screw driver to get it started. Seems like they could do something better.

Nova
Thanks for the update. The details will help others.
Gordon Dewald
Posted about low fluid being a possible problem.

Thank you Gordon.
Jesse

[Jbmsr]

Our Tour at first had too much wind and road noise in the front.

Road noise:
Gafney Freightliner set the ride height and the tag axle pressure it took much weight off of the front axle. It handled better and had way less road noise.

Wind noise:
I had 2 issues.
The entry door and the drivers window. The wind noise radiated and seemed to be coming from everywhere.
I used a blow dryer on cool/high and wind tested all areas. The small weep hole at the bottom of the drivers window designed to defog the window. I took the cover off and sealed it with bronze caulking. No wind noise or fog there since.
My entry door was not sealing at the top. The door was not contoured to the door frame correctly. I had to close the door on a cloth wrapped 2x4 at mid height, just below the window. Then stand on a pickup tail gate to safely push on the upper portion of the door to bend it in (I ran this by Winnebago first and they actually advised to do it) . I did this 4 times stopping to inspect the outer door skin condition and the upper door sealing condition.
Each time it improved. I also adjusted the door striker so that the door would close tighter.
The door has two closed positions, one click is for quiet shuts at a campground and the second click is for a complete seal for travel which takes a harder close. As long as we remember to briskly close the door before travel we have zero wind noise. Night and day difference.

Jesse

[Jbmsr]

If after filling your fresh water tank, the water backwashes back out of the hose, your check valve is stuck open.
Part number 164907-01-000
Behind the fill plate.
Jesse

[marco1b]

Originally Posted by Jbmsr

If after filling your fresh water tank, the water backwashes back out of the hose, your check valve is stuck open.
Part number 164907-01-000
Behind the fill plate.
Jesse

I had the same problem a couple of years ago and replaced the valve. The second time it happened I taped on the valve with the handle of the screwdriver and was able to dislodge whatever was causing the valve to remain open. The valve
has worked well since.

[marco1b]

Originally Posted by Jbmsr

Nova
Thanks for the update. The details will help others.
Gordon Dewald
Posted about low fluid being a possible problem.

Thank you Gordon.
Jesse

I did not know this but came across this information recently on the lci1.com website on maintaining your jacks:

Check fluid in reservoir every 12 months. If fluid is a clear red color, do not change. If fluid is milky, pink
and murky and not clear red in color, drain reservoir and add new fluid. Hydraulic fluid in reservoir
should be changed a minimum of every 5 years.

[bridluz]

Originally Posted by marco1b

I had the same problem a couple of years ago and replaced the valve. The second time it happened I taped on the valve with the handle of the screwdriver and was able to dislodge whatever was causing the valve to remain open. The valve

has worked well since.

So I just went and looked. I can see behind the panel with all the pex tubing. But I don’t see a check valve. The inlet pex leads to the in line water filter and then in to the rv. Any help on the location of the valve is much appreciated!!! Thanks!
( I googled the part number but no pictures come up so I can’t say I know exactly what I’m looking for)

[Jbmsr]

Sorry
That part number was incorrect.
It is 167737-01-000, and listed as (V-7 valve check union) on the following diagram.

Winnebago water system parts list.
https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/000209446.pdf
It is close to the water supply that connects to the hose real.
Jesse

[Rbeckwith]

Jesse I sent you a private message, when you get a chance to look
Thank you Bob

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by Rbeckwith

Jesse I sent you a private message, when you get a chance to look
Thank you Bob

Bob
Your RVComfort thermostat has 1 12v positive, 1 negative and, 2 signal wires. Either one loosing connection could be causing the lockup. A loose wire or 12v power dropping or glitching below 9.75 volts is most likely causing the problem.
The inline harness I posted is no longer available most likely because research proved it not a fix. Next time your unit freezes check you house voltage for low power then switch your coach battery switch by the front door off for 5 seconds then back on and it will reset your thermostat. You also might check for a loose wire at the 9 pin connector behind the thermostat.

https://old.rvcomfort.com/rvp/pdf_documents/1976659.pdf
Jesse