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Old 04-29-2017, 12:07 PM   #1
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Winnie Drop Clearance Problem

Hello,

Own a 2016 WD1780 and the stabilizer jacks sit about 8" off the ground when fully retracted. Not a problem when driving, but have issues with the rear ones when backing into my driveway, which has a minor slope to it. Catch or damage them about one out of every four or five attempts at backing in to park. Have also caught them on the concrete tire stops in a couple of campsites. Use a weight distribution hitch and even if disconnecting it to put a little more weight on the tongue, only raises them a hair, plus inconvenient to disconnect when backing up with traffic in the area. Anyone know of a way to either lift the trailer another few inches, or any aftermarket rear jacks that might fit flush with the frame?

Appreciate any advice.

Thanks
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:35 PM   #2
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I have the same problem. Plus I have the rear bath and the dump valve is also very low. The only viable idea have been given is larger tires. Or have it built higher at factory. Too late after we have it for that.
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:52 PM   #3
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Using/installing some sort of bottom-out wheels would require some serious design and welding efforts.

But how about this:
Use air shocks to replace the existing shocks on the 1780's axle? These are after-market shocks for autos and trucks. Finding a pair that would bolt to your existing shock-mounting points would be the challenge.

Anyway...
Once mounted, the air shocks could be inflated to 100 (air) pounds using a portable air compressor and would probably raise the rear of the 1780 several inches. For traveling-down-the-road, bleed all the air out, and the normal "shock function" would take effect.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:04 AM   #4
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I will certainly look into this. Thanks
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Old 04-30-2017, 01:11 PM   #5
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Robi -

Will check out the air shock option later this week. Have also considered completely removing the rear stabilizers and picking up a couple inexpensive aftermarket scissor jacks to use in their place when setting up. A little more work, but probably no more than inflating / deflating air shocks. In addition, since I don't imagine a hand pump would work on shocks, would save me getting a portable compressor.

Going to call Winnebago tomorrow and hope they resolve this issue before too long.

Appreciate the ideas.

Thanks
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Old 05-01-2017, 09:02 AM   #6
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If you were to find air shocks of correct length and bolt-on pattern, then the air compressor function of this "design" might be kinda neat. What I'm trying to convey is that air shocks require very little air volume to perform their function. So rather than a "pancake" air compressor (from Harbor Freight; ~$45), you could get use a much smaller, 12-volt tire inflating pump capable of about 80 pounds. This type of pump would nave no air reservoir. Hence: smaller size, and runs on 12 VDC rather than 120VAC. Then mount all this paraphernalia under the camper and out-of-sight. Then with the flip of a switch (and about 4 minutes of pumping), you're all set. Some type of dump-valve then bleeds the air out in just seconds.
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Old 05-01-2017, 09:31 AM   #7
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To summarize and maybe close this thread, I've been having a rear jack assembly clearance problem on my 2016 Winnie-Drop WD1780. Only 7" of ground clearance, causing them to frequently catch and be damaged when backing into campsites or driveways with a slight upward slope, a concrete tire stop (or substantial park speed bump). Has happened three times in the past year, requiring complete replacement of the stabilizer jack assembly. No current issues with the front units, since the trailer tongue connection "adjusts quicker" to elevation change, keeping them a little higher.

At present, these appear to be my options:

Called Winnebago Towables in Indiana this morning. The representative said all that can be done is the removal of the existing axle, followed by the cost to purchase and install a new "forty five down degree axle" which he didn't know the cost of. Also said this might only give another 3"- 4" of clearance. Sounds complex, costly and an Internet search shows nothing regarding information on this product or remedy?

Another self devised option on my part is to unbolt and completely remove the existing rear stabilizer jack assemblies, which my measurements show will give an additional 4" of clearance to the frame. Then figured on buying a set of Ultra-Fab stackable aluminum jack stands for manual placement under the frame once set up in the campsite. Only three bolts to remove each rear jack and a set of two stands is less than $30 if you shop around.

Then, I called the service manager at the dealership. He said they have an "over-under kit" which reverses the springs, gives an approximate additional 6" of clearance and essentially sets the trailer up as an off-road package. He has to get back with me and confirm, but estimated the cost at about $75 for parts, plus 2 hours labor to install (their rate is $110 per hour). I suspect this increase in height may prohibit the existing stabilizer jacks from sometimes reaching the ground, but carrying a small amount of 4" blocking should fix the problem. Sounded best to me and I made an appointment.

Hope this helps anyone else with the problem.
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Old 05-01-2017, 11:03 AM   #8
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If you raise the drop by 6", you will likely need to account for the height difference in your steps. Not sayings your solution is a bad one. Just another cost to figure in.

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Old 05-02-2017, 12:10 PM   #9
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How much clearance is at the FRONT?
If it's a lot more, your hitch is too high.

Just get a lower ball mount. The trailer should be slightly nose-down anyway.

I do recommend the bolt or weld-on rear casters wheels. They are cheap and work great.
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:11 AM   #10
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My RV repair service feels the wheels would not protect the sewer exit. We are going to raise the resting place for the axel by 2-4 inches. I can handle the higher step. More later as we progress.
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Old 05-03-2017, 10:13 AM   #11
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Robi1014 - Checked the suspension today and there are no shock absorbers at all, just a direct axle to frame hookup. After the original discussion with my service manager, thought the so called lift kit moved spring location - but without shocks or springs, now appears it will be some type of additional spacer bracket between axle and frame.

TDI Minnie - The hitch ball height seems fine. Agree I could gain a little rear clearance by dropping it a bit, but use a weight distribution hitch and try to keep just a slight downward angle on it to make driving smoother. Also suspect that if lowered more, the front Jacks will then be closer to the ground and that may become a problem.

Although the front clearance is about the same, think the problem is minimized since the rear wheels of my tow vehicle are only about 6 feet away, larger in diameter and "ride" up any changes in elevation at about the same time as the trailer nose. Imagine this keeps the front up a bit more and as mentioned, only need a few more inches of clearance to solve the current problems.

Appreciate the suggestions.
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Old 05-06-2017, 04:34 PM   #12
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Ouch. And I thought I had a good recommendation for you!!?!! Rats.

Good luck to you!
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Old 05-23-2017, 11:30 PM   #13
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I've also had a clearance problem with the rear stabilizer jacks (and no problem with the front ones). It's not just a minor annoyance, it's kind of a big deal - I can't even exit/enter my own driveway without scraping the baseplates, and if I'm not super careful, I will catch an edge on the curb and waste one. And my driveway is pretty mild, as obstacles go.

Someone on this thread suggested that the problem is due to improper setup, and let me assure you that this is not the issue, as I am using a WDH and towing the trailer at the ideal angle. It's a low-clearance problem that is inherent to the design of the trailer and OEM selection of the stabilizer jack and mounting location. IMHO, Winnebago should have designed the trailer chassis for an extra 1-2" spacing off the axle.

I've spent a lot of time crawling underneath my trailer and have considered a lot of different options to correct the problem. Raising the trailer chassis off the axle, while possible, is a fairly involved (and therefore expensive) solution. My low-budget fix is shown in the attached before-and-after pics. In a nutshell, I moved the jack mounting location from underneath the frame, to adjacent to (alongside) the rear frame member. To accomplish this, I used a couple of 18" long pieces of 3" x 3" x 3/16" angle iron that I picked up from a local steel supplier. I cut off the mounting tabs on the jacks and welded the jack frame to the underside of the angle iron, and then bolted the whole assembly to the frame rail. I have rudimentary welding and metalworking skills, which are necessary for implementing this solution, so if you don't have these skills/tools and want to go this route, you will have to either pay someone or become further indebted to your neighbor or brother-in-law.

The project took me one evening after work, and added about 15 lbs to the trailer. Cost of materials was about $12. I did the final paint job at the end of the night, using a flashlight, and boy does it show. But oh well, it's a fix I feel really good about, structurally, and a problem I won't have to deal with anymore.
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Old 05-25-2017, 04:50 PM   #14
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spo-vegas,

Great reply, detail and think it's ingenious.
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