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Old 03-24-2018, 09:47 AM   #1
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No 12 volt power unless plugged into shore power

Saw a similar post but this maybe a bit different. Weíre on the road and we lost all 12 volt power in the house. I checked the batteries, chassis is 12.5 and house batteries (2) are 12.8. Nothing on 12 volt worked. I couldnít even start the generator and the inverted shut off. Once we got to our campground for the night and plugged in all the 12 volt systems worked. I suspect itís a cable issue but am at a loss as to where to look next. As background, I replaced my house solenoid last fall (thanks to help from this forum) and added an LSL Trik-L-Start. All was well. Before I left to return home, I had problems getting one slide out in, I reset the switch and it came in (not sure itís related but I included as FYI).
Now, testing the batteries, I get the same readings 12.5 and 12.8 volts. The One-Place monitor shows 12.5 chassis but 13.8 house (hmm). The LSL has a blinking green light, which indicates ďidle, no power sourceĒ. The LSL is installed at the solenoid, which is in the bay with the propane tank on the driver side. Batteries are under the steps. Sometime is not connecting but I donít know where.
We have a 2012 Itasca Sunova 33c. Thanks for helping..
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:49 AM   #2
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Exclamation

...sounds like the Converter is not providing power?
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:51 AM   #3
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or maybe the 12v 'salesman's switch' is OFF?


...just some ideas
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:54 AM   #4
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You plug in and power comes on means your converter is working but you house battery disconnect or salesman switch isn't.

Cycle the switch a few times. Sometime the internal contacts get corrosion on them.
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Old 03-24-2018, 11:06 AM   #5
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The 12v power is coming from the converter . That's why you are reading 13.8 on the panel . Check the connections from the battery to the converter as well as the grounds . You might have to remove them and clean them. Might be the isolation switch . Measure across it . It should be close to zero volts. The generator uses the house battery for starting and the converter will not be able to supply the current to crank it.
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Old 03-24-2018, 02:02 PM   #6
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Looking for converter

I know it sounds dumb but the biggest problem is finding these things. I search the internet, which says itís behind the a/c panel. I took the panel off p, see attached picture. The salesmanís switch appears to be on and was on when it all went out while I was driving. Iíll keep looking and thanks for the info... HT
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Old 03-24-2018, 03:07 PM   #7
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Wiring Diagrams then
2012 Sightseer/Sunova D33C Wiring Diagram Book then
"Body, 12V Wiring Installation: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_179245.pdf

See sheets 3 and 7, which are pages 4 and 8 of the PDF document. The converter is shown there. It's a bit hard to figure out, but I'd say the converter is attached to the forward-facing wall of the bathroom, but not in the bathroom. Is there a removable panel or equipment immediately to the left of the door when you enter the coach? Perhaps below and behind the "Housing Circuit Breakers" panel?
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Old 03-24-2018, 03:14 PM   #8
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Converter is working or you would not have 12V DC Power when plugged into shore power AND that 13.8V is form converter DC Output

Salesman switch......
Was/Is ON
BUT have you tried cycling it form On to Off to On to Off etc
Like suggested. ...contacts could be corroded/loose etc
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Old 03-25-2018, 05:51 AM   #9
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Thumbs up Just maybe the salesman switch

I pulled the panel off the power cabinet and the convert isnít visible. I suspect itís inside the bathroom cabinet under the sink, which is directly behind the power panel at the stairway. The salesman switches are both lite (chassis and house). I turned the house switch on and off 6-7 times. The light never goes off. I guess thatís because itís plugged into shore power. Anyway, when I checked the One-place monitor, it shows 13.2 (chassis) and 13.8 (house). The LSL now shows green.
I checked the bathroom cabinet looking for the power converter. If itís in there, I have no idea how it could be accessed without taking the cabinet out. See pictures. So far so good and maybe I can make it home without any further drama. Thanks for the help. This forum is awesome 👏.
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:07 AM   #10
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You need to follow the power from the house battery.

Its goes to a fuse or breaker, near the battery, that's code.

Then the power goes to the disconnect solenoid. The small disconnect switch you see, with the light, turns the solenoid on and off.

Once you find that solenoid you can pull the shore power plug and carefully jump a wire from one large terminal to the other terminal. If stuff comes on, its not working inside.

Your converter is fine.
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:08 AM   #11
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The salesman's switch controls a big relay. The issue is the relay. It sounds like it has not toggled on. Check that. The issue then becomes whether the relay is bad or the switch or the wiring between the two.
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:16 AM   #12
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First off stop digging into the coach to find the converter which is working as it is supposed too. If it wasn't you wouldn't have lights or anything else working in the coach. The disconnect switch, the one with the light that are not going out, are not what actually disconnects power. The switch controls a high current relay to disconnect power for house and the chassis. The problem is the relay is not working and has failed in the open position. You are correct regarding the light not going out because the converter is providing the house DC power. The relay are behind the chassis electrical box.

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_177896.pdf
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterT View Post
...sounds like the Converter is not providing power?
Re-read original post. Converter is working, absolutly NO question (Everything worked plugged in)

Salesman switch, Main fuse/breaker, Bad connection (likely Ground) are all on ye old suspect list as well as a toasted battery. But I'm inclined to discount toasted battery.

Strange one .. I lost one of the 12 volt after market circuits in my RV.. Was driving me batty. Volt meter showed about 11.5 volts (Batteries full) test light ZIP (one of the reasons I like test lights over volt meters) That's at the "inside" end of the wire.

At the battery end (This is an added direct to battery to run a bunch of radios circuit) I had good 12.whatever (Same as battery.

Finally I did a visual inspectin of the wire itself.. about a foot or two was a BULGE.. Yup, wire had a "Tumor".. I excised the tumor (Corrorded wire) cut, soldered, and re-sealed, 100%
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Old 03-26-2018, 07:11 AM   #14
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Love the discussions. As stated earlier, I replaced the solenoid last fall (what a pain to get to) and added a LVL to keep the chassis battery charged while on shore power. I unplugged and tested the salesman switches, I can hear the solenoids click and switch lights go on and off. I agree, I think it’s a ground cable issue (we spend lots of time near the ocean). As for looking for the converter, well I’m just curious as to where it is an what it looks like. Just my nature to want to know how things work ;-). I’m back home and will now tackle cleaning all the cable contacts.
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