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Old 08-09-2017, 05:59 AM   #1
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07 Essex Basement Freezer Fuse?

Ok, I have tried searching this a few different ways. It must be on here somewhere but I don't seem to be able to find it.

I had to replace my Norcold basement fridg/freezer. My unit is a 120AC and 12v DC unit. I put the new unit in and it works fine on AC but doesn't on DC. I checked the 12v DC plug prior to install and it was fine. After I changed the old 12v DC plug to the new one for the new unit . . . I don't have 12v DC any more. I'm sure I just blew a fuse but where is it?

I checked the outside bay just below the driver and the bathroom fuse panel. I don't see it.

Anyone know where the fuse for this is?
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Old 08-09-2017, 08:12 AM   #2
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Got a picture for you that shows a 12V fuse in the 12v area of the power bay.

The label "Freezer" is somewhat obscured, but you should see it nearly in the center of the picture.
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Old 08-09-2017, 09:55 AM   #3
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azSkier - Thanks! One question . . . when you say "12v area of the power bay" can you tell me where that is exactly?

1) Outside compartment just below the drivers seat?
2) In the passenger rear where you open up the door where the battery tray is?

If your coach is near by can you zoom in on the fuse are where the freezer fuse is? I can't really make out any of the fuse names. My coach may be a little different but I'm guessing this will give me an good idea where to start looking.
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Old 08-09-2017, 09:59 AM   #4
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Actually looking at this again I might know where this is on my coach. I see a very heavy duty red (I assume +12v) cable coming in from what I assume is the battery compartment? On my RV that is just in front of the rear wheels on the passengers side. My slide controllers and some other stuff are mounted to the frame in that area. Is that where your power bay is?
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:32 AM   #5
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Most fuse locations on DSP's are located in the first bay under driver.
Here is a link to fuse locations that should help which is in QT's # 3.
Here is also a link to ESSEX information.
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:40 AM   #6
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Having had two DSDP's I can say that Newmar loves to hide the inline fuses. With the present rig I can say that Country Coach used fuse blocks, then hid them.
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Old 08-09-2017, 11:56 AM   #7
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I call the power bay the bay where the AC power cord brings 120V AC into the coach. On my coach, this bay is between the wet bay and the hydrohot bay. This bay contains the power cord and reel, the transfer switch. On the back of the bay wall, there is a black plastic panel that is velcro'd in place.

Remove that panel and you will find a bunch of 12V stuff; the Bird, a bunch of fuses, the battery disconnect switch. This is the area that 12V enters the coach. There is wiring here that goes through 2 40A fuses on its way to the main 12V fuse panel (in my bathroom).
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Old 08-09-2017, 12:25 PM   #8
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azSkier - You're the best! Thanks! Yes, i have that same setup but had NO CLUE there were fuses in there. I will certainly look tonight. I'm sure its the same as yours.

PS: If you're willing I hear you are magic with the HWH system. my drivers front jack doesn't retract on its own. The springs are like new so I doubt that is the problem. How do I tell if it is a valve that is hung up or the jack itself? How do I find the valve that isn't fully releasing? This ISN'T an emergency. I'm pretty sure I have your phone number if there is a good time that is convenient to call you? Otherwise I can call HWH.
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Old 08-09-2017, 12:48 PM   #9
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I'm in SLC, so call anytime that's appropriate.

As for the HWH springs, the spring ends need to be tapered and not square. I replaced mine last summer and never have retraction problems.

I have never manually released the valves. The procedure is documented in the HWH 2000 manual. The 625 system trouble shooting manual is also helpful.

My system 2000 document shows the left front Jack is one of the 2 inside solenoids. I think its the one 2nd from the back.

>> my drivers front jack doesn't retract on its own

This suggests you are able to force it to retract (using a 2x4 perhaps). If so, the valve is open, the jack is free to move and the spring is weak.
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:04 PM   #10
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azSkier - You're the best! Thanks! Yes, i have that same setup but had NO CLUE there were fuses in there. I will certainly look tonight. I'm sure its the same as yours.

.
If I'm looking at the picture correctly, the "FREEZER" tag appears to be on a 20amp circuit breaker (as opposed to a fuse). It may be resettable .... there may be a small depression in the center that you can push with a toothpick. You'll probable need to check both sides with a meter. 12vdc and you should have a ground near the transfer switch.

BTW, if you need to pick up 12vdc for the area above this bay (like the mid entertainment cabinet) the fuse block to the left of the fat 12vdc feed has empty locations. From there you can run back thru the wall alongside the fat feed and it comes out near the hole that goes up into the hall pantry (removable panel under bottom pantry shelf). This is also where I ran a coax for my portable sat dish. The hole thru the floor is behind the HydroHot and accessible from the basement on the passenger side. That's also the area you need to crawl into to get to the HydroHot plumbing ....
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:21 PM   #11
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Ooops . . . it is azpete. Sorry, I got my az's mixed up. I think he is either still currently a HWH employee or a former one. He knows a LOT about the HWH system and how to trouble shoot it.

But anyway to answer some of your questions . . .
1) Yes, i can force it up with a 2 x 4 ;-)
2) Yes, the ends of all my springs are tapered. I think they are all in pretty good shape and don't think that is the problem.
3) I think I have the 626 system . . . but not positive. I do have a pdf manual so I'll look in there.

Thanks for the help with the electrical! huge help!
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:24 PM   #12
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Thanks - bruceisla!
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:25 PM   #13
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Ooops . . . it is azpete. Sorry, I got my az's mixed up. I think he is either still currently a HWH employee or a former one. He knows a LOT about the HWH system and how to trouble shoot it.

But anyway to answer some of your questions . . .
1) Yes, i can force it up with a 2 x 4 ;-)
2) Yes, the ends of all my springs are tapered. I think they are all in pretty good shape and don't think that is the problem.
3) I think I have the 626 system . . . but not positive. I do have a pdf manual so I'll look in there.

Thanks for the help with the electrical! huge help!
I still have the tapered springs and the work fine but .... I seldom use jacks so the springs don't get much stretch. Have you tried WD40 on the shaft while extended and run a few cycles?
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:28 PM   #14
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Yes, this is definitely beyond WD40 or any other lube. I think the valve is stuck mostly closed. If I put enough leverage on it I can get the jack to retract but I have to really put some force on it. Something is hung up. Just trying to figure out what and where so I can replace or fix it.

THANKS!
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