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12v Dash Power Outlets
Old 07-14-2010, 08:02 AM   #1
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My coach is a 2003 Newmar Scottsdale SDCA 3257, W22, 8.1

I have two 12v Power Outlets in the dash. Neither work. I found a Fuse Block under the hood, left side of the engine compartment. It contains two 30amp "Aux" fuses. Both test good.

Is this the fuses for the 12v outlets? If so, are there other places I should look for additional fuses.

Suggestions for trouble shooting the problem would be appreciated.

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Old 07-14-2010, 12:50 PM   #2
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Totally dissimilar but it might be worth a look. My fuses for the dash outlets on a 2004 W20 are located beneath a panel that is on top of the dash directly in front of the steering wheel. Labeled 12V #1 and 12V #2, they are each 20amp. The same location has fuses for jacks, power seats, rear view monitor, spares, power windows and mirrors.

Hope that helps.

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Old 07-14-2010, 04:16 PM   #3
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If you have a panel this link will show what is under it.
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:06 PM   #4
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Rocky and 007 thanks for the info. I finally got the coach out of storage. I do have a panel above the dash and was able to access the fuse panel as shown by 007. But, all of those fuses are good.

Now I have a bigger problem. I came across the CB connections while I was under the dash. I accidently grounded (??) one of the wires and blew a fuse. I had not expected the wire to be hot with the ignition off. My dash stereo quit working also. I assume it is on the same circuit.

I have spent a couple of days trying to find a fuse for the dash stereo. The fuse block 007 pointed out has a 10amp Radio-Bat fuse and a 15amp Radio-Acc fuse. This block seems to be energized when the ignition is on. The dash stereo off of the coach batteries. Both of those test good. The 12DC center in the bedroom has a 20amp TV/Stereo fuse. It tested good also. I did not just rely on the fuse tester. I replaced some of the fuses, even tho they tested good. I also looked for an in-line fuse but did not find one.

I feel like I am missing a fuse block some where. Example: fuses for power seat, power mirrors, back up monitor, etc.

Any suggestions?
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:13 PM   #5
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Ok where your BIRD is located you will find some more fuses just taped up above the solenoids. My fuses are all tagged.
You did check all three blocks under panel.
You may also find a 1 amp fuse in bundle of wires for your LP gas detector under the big black box.

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Old 08-16-2010, 05:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustytwo View Post
I came across the CB connections while I was under the dash. I accidently grounded (??) one of the wires and blew a fuse. I had not expected the wire to be hot with the ignition off. My dash stereo quit working also. I assume it is on the same circuit......Any suggestions?
I had the exact experience you describe when I got my coach and went nuts trying to find the fuse. My coach being newer and a different model might be different but I finally found a fuse box tucked up under the dash on the firewall inside the coach near the steering shaft. Had to screw myself into contortions to find it but that's where the radio/CB fuse was. Think there is a person at the factory who delights in hiding fuses.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:03 AM   #7
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Success. Thanks a bunch 007. I do not have a BIRD, or if I do I have not found it yet. On my coach, under the hood, to the far right of the radiator, on the firewall there is what I call a Power Distribution Panel. A lot of big wires going in and a lot of wires coming out and one large solenoid. . Your comment about fuses being “taped up above the solenoids ” caused to feel inside the panel at the top. I found 6-7 fuses there. One was a 7.5 fuse for the radio clock . The panel has a clear plastic cover on it, but you can not see any of the fuses because they are tucked in at the top of the panel.

DandS and Rocky, I appreciate your input and you trying to get me into the right spot.

Still have not located the problem with 12v power outlets, but I will work on that later. It is time for a short trip.

God Bless all of you.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:54 PM   #8
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The BIRD would be in the box with all the heavy 12v buss bars with plastic face.
Could be behind some wiring.
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12 Volt Power Outlets
Old 10-03-2010, 09:57 PM   #9
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I also just developed the same problem on our 2000 DSDP Frt. There is a 20 amp fuse under the panel above the steering wheel labeled "Cigar Lighter" and it is good. There is power to the fuse, but no power to the outlets. Have not been able to locate another fuse.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:17 AM   #10
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I still have not found the problem with my 12v dash outlets. We have been on the road and I have not tried to mess with it while we were out. We are home now, so I will again start trying to locate the problem.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:57 AM   #11
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The AUX fuses are for "Additional stuff the factory did not add" and thus are not the problems.. IF you have a fuse labeled "Lighter" or "LTR" that's it.

NOTE: they may be house fuses, not vehicle fuses.. Some times it's done one way, sometimes the other. My coach has one of each.
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:53 AM   #12
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The 20 amp aux fuses are for the 12v outlets on dash. If have not done it all ready drop the dash panel and look behind dash the wiring multiples between the outlets and spade connections have dropped off. Also the center pin + has broke away from outlets.
The screws through dash face about 6-8 will release face plate from main dash board.
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:00 PM   #13
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Have you checked the socket with a test light. I have power to the socket but for some reason What ever I plug in don't work? like the socket is to deep for the plugs.
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:05 PM   #14
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I had the same problem. When I tested the voltage inside the plug it showed 5 volts so I thought I had a bad connection so I checked all the connections, cleaned the contacts inside the plug but no luck. I measued the voltage across the fuse it showed good. To make a long story short and after a lot of checking, I went back to the fuse and removed it. When I looked and the fuse element it looked good but the shape caused me to take a second look. I ohmed across the fuse and it should it was open. I replace the fuse and the receptacle has work fine ever since. So now if I suspect a bad fuse I replace it with a new one. Evidently the fuse originally failed because of overload not a short. There was just enough metal contact to show 5 volts at the receptacle but not enough to support a load.

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