1440W of Solar on 2017 Ventana 4037

[NealC]

Here are a few more pictures of the Charlie Martin architected design. The battery bay has a 125A fuse between the charge controller and the battery and the red big on/off switch to break the path if needed. In between the solar array and charge controller is a black on/off switch, a renogy 60A fuse and into the MPPT controller. I mounted all of this on a painted board topped with welder's mat for heat protection, sikaflex'd on. Top left of the board is the ME-BMK unit.

[rewillia]

Originally Posted by Canuck53

Rick,

Did you look at the installs they did? They have just done a 2017 Essex... Did 5 180W in series and 5 100W in series pictures on their web site. Voltage for both about 95-100 on each leg.

I did see a 14' Essex, pretty much a cookie cutter example of what I am considering doing on mine.

[Logan Oregon]

Originally Posted by rewillia

I did see a 14' Essex, pretty much a cookie cutter example of what I am considering doing on mine.

They actually did a 2016 Essex. But they did it in October of 2017.

https://amsolar.com/solar-panels-for-rv/

first one listed.

[NealC]

If anyone wants I could outline my AMSolar and Amazon parts lists. I went with the SF180 panels that include the hardware and each come with 15ft of 10/2. What I didn't account and what was great is that they sent all the 10/2 solar cable as one long length, not 15ft on each panel which was more than enough for my needs. I actually ordered 50ft in addition so I got 170ft of it to my surprise, they allowed me to send the unused (about 100ft) back. All in all it was not that expensive for a DIY, I'm guessing $5K. But I have way too much stuff, a lot of extra stuff mainly because the SF180 "kits" had most everything needed. Ask Roger to leave the MC4 connectors on which Charlie suggested inline fusing each pair of panels otherwise Roger will cut them off and each panel will just have butt connectors. Wasn't an issue as Charlie had me get MC4 fuses and connectors so I had all I needed even though AMSolar clipped off the typically included MC4 connectors. AMSolar doesn't wire panels this way I don't think, pairs of 2 series wired (one panel + to the other panel - then the "sets" + and - to the combiner box). Each set is fused through the MC4.

I would get the panels (full kit) and charge controller from AMSolar (same price as anywhere else), all other stuff you can get on amazon:

shrink wrap, fuses, tools (hydraulic crimper for 2 AWG lugs), dycor, on/off switches, sikaflex sealant, renegy fuses, extra flexible red/black 6 AWG and 2 AWG welding cables (10 ft ea).

I can give the full array of amazon links if anyone wants it.

[FlaRider]

Originally Posted by NealC

If anyone wants I could outline my AMSolar and Amazon parts lists. I went with the SF180 panels that include the hardware and each come with 15ft of 10/2. What I didn't account and what was great is that they sent all the 10/2 solar cable as one long length, not 15ft on each panel which was more than enough for my needs. I actually ordered 50ft in addition so I got 170ft of it to my surprise, they allowed me to send the unused (about 100ft) back. All in all it was not that expensive for a DIY, I'm guessing $5K. But I have way too much stuff, a lot of extra stuff mainly because the SF180 "kits" had most everything needed. Ask Roger to leave the MC4 connectors on which Charlie suggested inline fusing each pair of panels otherwise Roger will cut them off and each panel will just have butt connectors. Wasn't an issue as Charlie had me get MC4 fuses and connectors so I had all I needed even though AMSolar clipped off the typically included MC4 connectors. AMSolar doesn't wire panels this way I don't think, pairs of 2 series wired (one panel + to the other panel - then the "sets" + and - to the combiner box). Each set is fused through the MC4.

I would get the panels (full kit) and charge controller from AMSolar (same price as anywhere else), all other stuff you can get on amazon:

shrink wrap, fuses, tools (hydraulic crimper for 2 AWG lugs), dycor, on/off switches, sikaflex sealant, renegy fuses, extra flexible red/black 6 AWG and 2 AWG welding cables (10 ft ea).

I can give the full array of amazon links if anyone wants it.

Hi Neal,

What you posted looks like a good shopping list, but I would love your full list.

Marc

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by JT Oregon

They actually did a 2016 Essex. But they did it in October of 2017.

https://amsolar.com/solar-panels-for-rv/

first one listed.

Oops thanks yes that is the one I was referring to.

[NealC]

Amazon

1/2" split loom 100ft: http://a.co/81wltaE
Sikaflex sealant: http://a.co/f3EQcyF
Scotchbrite pads for prepping fiberglass before adhering panels (only need 1 pad but I couldn't find just one, maybe get locally): http://a.co/j7VfhFe
91% Isopropyl Alcohol (get locally) for prepping tape mounts
4 x MC4 fuse holders (my panels are 4 pairs of 2): http://a.co/e6P0Bs9
1 x Renogy MC4 connectors (comes with 5 sets): http://a.co/hQAT3YM
1 x Renogy Tool: http://a.co/as1rmBq
1 x 3/8" heat shrink with glue adhesive black: http://a.co/hxrQMMb
1 x same as above in red: http://a.co/cv8HT3C
1 x 3/4" heat shrink red: http://a.co/bxpct1L
1 x heat shrink tubing: http://a.co/2OBe8KY
1 x 10-12 awg heat shrink (I didn't need these but good to have): http://a.co/66KRIds
Lugs: http://a.co/iP2XAtk
Lugs: http://a.co/0pTDTBv
Lugs: http://a.co/6B8Dfls
I was short on some lugs which I got from AutoZone, can't remember which, you'll have to layout your plan and figure out what you need
1 x 60A Renogy fuse: http://a.co/0pylzBh (I also found extra 60A fuses and ordered extras)
1 x Red on/off switch: http://a.co/9UCdXR4
1 x 2 AWG welding wire: http://a.co/g9WxUC8
1 x Black on/off switch: http://a.co/81QYCnF
1 x 125A fuse: http://a.co/0qEmoTk (get extra 125A fuses such as http://a.co/cj2jVBU)
1 x Crimp tool: http://a.co/bfckK91 (I didn't really need this because I have this one which works with the right dies selected: http://a.co/1N4zv2m)
1 x 6 AWG red/black welding cable: http://a.co/6yx8Smu
1 x Hydraulic crimper: http://a.co/h5DNTGV
1 x Welding blanket for the mounting board under the charge controller: http://a.co/3FrPvNn
1 x 6 AWG butt connectors (which I didn't need): http://a.co/a61Y9PG
1 x 4-pack of Dicor: http://a.co/eRgY1JC

Again, my lug plan was a little off so I sourced additional lugs locally (AutoZone) but this should give you a good start thanks to Charlie

From AMSolar I got:

SF180W panel kits with rocker mounts (read on what all comes with this, it's worth it!)

I got my Victron on Amazon, I would get it from AMSolar if I did it over again, same price, give them your business!

Tilt bars for 8 panels

Roof combiner C-box

4 x Liquid tight strain relief but the kit comes with them so I have extra

Publix:

90/91% (strong stuff) Isopropyl Alceehaul (as they say on moonshiners)
Alleve
Snickers
Diet Coke (to stay alert, later mixed with Capt Morgan (not for use while on roof))
Ice cream for when done

Misc:

I changed out the ME-RC remote that comes from Newmar with a ME-ARC50 remote (easy swap)
Installed/added ME-BMK battery monitor kit - painful but installed! Must have along with ME-ARC50 for solar so you get state of charge (SOC) capability.

[NealC]

For those with side rails (Girard) I wonder if it would be better to engineer a custom panel mount to get the panels flush with the rail tops to avoid shadowing?

[FlaRider]

Originally Posted by NealC

For those with side rails (Girard) I wonder if it would be better to engineer a custom panel mount to get the panels flush with the rail tops to avoid shadowing?

That is what I was going to look at doing when I get the coach. Not sure how difficult it would be.

Thanks for the shopping list.

[ghaynes754]

Raising the panels is pretty easy to do. I'll have photos of my install in a couple of weeks. Eliminates the shading of the AC units and side fascias.

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by cruzbill

#6 is good for 65a or so. That's good for 1,200w+ of solar. Your system might do 70a on a good day.

Are we talking 70A of PV current? or 70A of charging current?

It's of no use to make general statements... One has to know the specifications of their panels...charge controller...wiring and terminals...Gauge, distance, temperature ratings...and do the math. When you say the #6 wire is good for 65A and the system can do 70A...it makes no sense.

In the picture...there is 86.6 amps going to the batteries. If you divide the solar wattage of 1121 by the PV voltage of 30.61v...you are carrying around 36.62A of current thru the #6 wire. It is 105 degree C wire...capable of much more than this...and protected by a 72V/60A renogy fuse. The 86.6A going to the battery is going thru #2 wire and protected by a 125A fuse...

Here’s a guide for calculating conductor and protection ampacity...you need to refer to the label on your panels to find the Isc, Voc, Iz, temperature coefficients...to balance the panels to the charge controller and calculate ampacities on the PV side of the house and the battery side of the house...

http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...-app-guide.pdf

[snowman1]

Nice system and install. We had AM Solar do a 640 watt system for us last year. Great shop that does quality work, they have a several month wait time to get in. Get compliments on it all the time. The 30% tax credit didn't hurt either.

[10 fan]

That’s a great write up, thanks. I’m just starting my rv solar research. It should be a fun project when I get the coach. They will do 2 solar preps in #6 only (they just approved mine) I also did 2 conduits from the half bath electrical cabinet to the storage bay below for several monitor panels I plan to mount in the hall. I was denied the two 1” conduits at first. Said they only run conduits horizontally because of the slides. When I explained the location does not move (2 conduits straight up and down) they approved it. I did solar on my house last year but this is a whole new game with batterys

[Itinerant1]

Originally Posted by C.Martin

Are we talking 70A of PV current? or 70A of charging current?

It's of no use to make general statements... One has to know the specifications of their panels...charge controller...wiring and terminals...Gauge, distance, temperature ratings...and do the math. When you say the #6 wire is good for 65A and the system can do 70A...it makes no sense.

In the picture...there is 86.6 amps going to the batteries. If you divide the solar wattage of 1121 by the PV voltage of 30.61v...you are carrying around 36.62A of current thru the #6 wire. It is 105 degree C wire...capable of much more than this...and protected by a 72V/60A renogy fuse. The 86.6A going to the battery is going thru #2 wire and protected by a 125A fuse...

Here’s a guide for calculating conductor and protection ampacity...you need to refer to the label on your panels to find the Isc, Voc, Iz, temperature coefficients...to balance the panels to the charge controller and calculate ampacities on the PV side of the house and the battery side of the house...

Excellent point which I think many forget about that there are many sections of a solar build with different wire sizing. More to it than just reading threads and using whatever gauge wire.
Solar panels strings to combiner box
Combiner box to charge controller
Charge controller to batteries
Batteries to inverter (maybe a sub panel)
Then making sure proper fuse/ breakers are in place.