2008 DSDP Slideout Stuck Out!

[Jetsmania]

Hi! Super B's front passenger slideout is stuck out. At first the motor was making a clicking noise now it does not. Coach is plugged in showing 13 Volts. Tried switching slideout electronic board. Swapped fuse blocks. NADA. In talking to Newmar we loosened the nut by the motor and still can't push in the slideout. There is another nut on the other side of the motor which we are told probably needs to be loosened also. I was able to break the nut the first time, but cannot break it loose the second time. Any suggestions to get this thing in?? Paul

[Jetsmania]

Hi! Super B's front passenger slideout is stuck out. At first the motor was making a clicking noise now it does not. Coach is plugged in showing 13 Volts. Tried switching slideout electronic board. Swapped fuse blocks. NADA. In talking to Newmar we loosened the nut by the motor and still can't push in the slideout. There is another nut on the other side of the motor which we are told probably needs to be loosened also. I was able to break the nut the first time, but cannot break it loose the second time. Any suggestions to get this thing in?? Paul

[GaryKD]

The information you have been given is correct. The clicking sound may have been the friction clutches slipping (doing their job). It takes a 1 1/2 inch crows foot or open end wrench. + a 3' extension (for me) to get these loose. There may be two of them. One on each shaft between the slide gear teeth and the motor. Their job is to save the motor, if there is a bind with the slide. Get both friction clutches loose. You and a couple of big friends can then push the slide closed. This is on the assumption there is no bind in the slide. I think the sliping clutches means there is a bind that is the root cause of the problem. If you can not push the slide in, then the bind must be found.

One question. Does the slide have manual slide locks or power slide locks? If manual locks and the slide can not be pushed close, try removing the manual lock arms.

Last thought and warning, the friction clutches do not come loose easily. Wear gloves (saves nuckles) and watch your back (the slide is out and you are under it).

[Jetsmania]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Does the slide have manual slide locks or power slide locks? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hi Gary! Thanks for responding. It has power slide locks. The clicking noise we heard was not from the friction clutches. I think it may have been the fuse (it has resetable ones). Thanks for the warnig about gloves! Too Late! I already lost a chunk of skin. We are having a horrible time releasing the second friction clutch. What is a crows foot? We used an adjustable wrench that is about 18" long. Got enough traction on the first one, could not get to the second break point on the other. The nut is located right near the pillar that seperates basement doors. Horrible location. I stopped using the adjustable because it started to chew up the nut. Maybe a dedicated open end wrench will be better. I am not sure how much room will be left to get a pipe or something on the wrench. We have never done this repair before. Paul

[Latitude]

Paul

A 'Crow's Foot' is basically just the end of an open end wrench that you can put a 1/2" breaker bar into turn.

If you can get a 1 1/2" wrench it would work better than the adjustable, as to rounded the nut and slipping off!!!

Rick

[RVDude]

Those slip joints are torqued to 150 ft lbs.

You also might need to tap the freed nut with a hammer to separate the clutch halves.

You might also try turning the 5/8" nut on the drive motor itself - works by turning the motor manually. It should move the slide but it will be very hard turning if the slip clutches are still engaged.

[GaryKD]

Rick is correct on what a crow's foot is. It looks like the business end of an open end wrench, missing the handle. I had to use the crow's foot, my 1/2" Craftsman ratchet and the 3' bar extension to get these loose.

The power locks eliminate one potential problem. Not much can be diagnosed until both clutches are loose. Then one can find the bind or what ever is causing the problem.

If the motor will nolonger activate, it may need to be replaced. If the motor needs replacing it may be a symptom of the real problem that still needs to be fixed.

My posts focus on a mechanical problem. This is because it is the extent of my experience with Newmar slides. I have never participated in a non mechanical slide problem.

[Jetsmania]

Hi Gary! Thanks for the info. Newmar is sending a local guy today, we will see what happens. Super B does not have much faith in him because he kept saying it was a trailer. Super B is going to probably grab one of his ride mechanics and let them see what they can do. If they can fix his big roller coasters, they should be able to break that nut free. Thanks for the info on the tools needed. I would have never thought to use the Ratchet, etc. Looks like I will be heading to Sears to add the wrench part to my tools. Paul

[Jetsmania]

Hi! Newmar had a local tech come out. With phone support from Newmar they determined that the lock out arm sensor was bad. Newmar had the tech jump it out, at the slide out board. The sensor is not located on the board, that is just where they had the tech jump it out. They were then able to get the slideout to go back in. It was traveling very slow and needed a push to help it along. I wish Joe, from customer service, knew about jumping the sensor out. It would have saved a lot of grief, and my knuckles. Paul