Adding a wet bay exit hole (5 inch)

[NealC]

I have the two parts for the wet bay sewer drain port, the white screw collar and the black flange that goes below it. Has anyone drilled a second exit port for the wet bay? I'm thinking of adding one better lined up with the sanicon when I get that install completed and finalized. It's a 5 inch hole. Just curious if there are any concerns about drilling it and even if it's possible to get through the materials involved? I have a bi-metal 5 inch hole saw. I'll put it at the same position as the existing one most likely, just towards the hose reel.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by NealC

I have the two parts for the wet bay sewer drain port, the white screw collar and the black flange that goes below it. Has anyone drilled a second exit port for the wet bay? I'm thinking of adding one better lined up with the sanicon when I get that install completed and finalized. It's a 5 inch hole. Just curious if there are any concerns about drilling it and even if it's possible to get through the materials involved? I have a bi-metal 5 inch hole saw. I'll put it at the same position as the existing one most likely, just towards the hose reel.

Haven't tried it but I think I'd pull the original collar out and have a look at the layers in the bottom of the compartment.

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by NealC

I have the two parts for the wet bay sewer drain port, the white screw collar and the black flange that goes below it. Has anyone drilled a second exit port for the wet bay? I'm thinking of adding one better lined up with the sanicon when I get that install completed and finalized. It's a 5 inch hole. Just curious if there are any concerns about drilling it and even if it's possible to get through the materials involved? I have a bi-metal 5 inch hole saw. I'll put it at the same position as the existing one most likely, just towards the hose reel.

Shouldn't be a problem. I assume you looked that there aren't any structual supports in the way, that the water pan is tight to the floor there (no hollows inbetween) etc. Drill from bottom up. ie: thru the steel, then the plastic. And, the two holes don't overlap which would prevent either of them from getting a fitting to close...

[lostinfla]

Neal, with a 5" hole saw, you better be holding on to that drill motor. I've seen people break wrists using a large hole saw when it decided to bite in.

[FLSteve]

Originally Posted by lostinfla

Neal, with a 5" hole saw, you better be holding on to that drill motor. I've seen people break wrists using a large hole saw when it decided to bite in.

NealC ... I just looked but can't find it, but I do remember someone posting a picture of what the bottom looks like as to a cross section of the different materials. He had cut a bigger hole through his floor. If you find it ... please post it again as I am getting ready to enlarge the factory sewer hose hole in mine as it needs to move about 2" to better fit the outlet.

FLSteve

[NealC]

Originally Posted by FLSteve

NealC ... I just looked but can't find it, but I do remember someone posting a picture of what the bottom looks like as to a cross section of the different materials. He had cut a bigger hole through his floor. If you find it ... please post it again as I am getting ready to enlarge the factory sewer hose hole in mine as it needs to move about 2" to better fit the outlet.

FLSteve

I think it may have been in one of the Sanicon threads. I'll scan for it. I'd like to see a picture of the problem you're experiencing and why you need to fix the hole.

[NealC]

Thanks google!

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/have...or-424269.html

[FLSteve]

Originally Posted by NealC

I'd like to see a picture of the problem you're experiencing and why you need to fix the hole.

I still use the "large gravity hose method" and when I install a 90 degree fitting to look straight down it extends past the factory hole. I have the shortest 90 degree fitting I can find so just need to move the hole out a few inches. Will post a picture when I get home.

FLSteve

[NealC]

Here are the images and parts/prices I got from Newmar (Joe G.)

PN 23815 - $22.13 (black flange)
PN 49736 – $10.18 (screw top)

[NealC]

I'll have to measure the hole or wait to hear back from Stuart in the other thread. Not exactly sure on the hole diameter just yet.

[PanJH]

Originally Posted by FLSteve

I still use the "large gravity hose method" and when I install a 90 degree fitting to look straight down it extends past the factory hole. I have the shortest 90 degree fitting I can find so just need to move the hole out a few inches. Will post a picture when I get home.

FLSteve

Ours is the same way-- just a bad install. I can just barely get a 90 on there, but it ends up pointing toward the center of the coach. So, I put a 45 on the 90 to get the flow shooting back toward the Drivers side.
Are you going to move the existing hole or try to find a larger port ?

[FLSteve]

Originally Posted by PanJH

Are you going to move the existing hole or try to find a larger port ?

I am going to just try to move the hole about 2" away from the outlet (towards the edge of the wet bay) and fill in the back side to keep it round. Can't use a hole saw since I am only doing a partial circle cut out ... so will have to use a normal saw. Will keep you posted.

FLSteve

[NealC]

I still would like to see a picture of this. You may be able to actually slide your gray/black toward the door. Empty both and they are quite light and see if there is any movement. When I was replumbing my gray side from 1.5 to 3 inch plumbing the black tank actually moved left/right, which helped, this may have been their design. You'll also see wooden cross support for the tanks. I think you would be better off correcting the plumbing position vs. a physical hole change. Something was not done right in there but I think you could correct it with a good look at it. Or have Newmar correct it under warranty. You may destroy your wet bay floor.

[FLSteve]

Originally Posted by NealC

You may destroy your wet bay floor.

NealC ... you are scaring me ... however it's a very good thought and I will definitively check that before doing any cutting. If I could just gain 1" ... it would work.

FLSteve