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Old 04-27-2018, 09:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom chelbana View Post
Just installed a Air Force One braking system on our 18 Durango and am very pleased with the supplemental braking. What I also just learned was that even when your tow vehicle isn't connected to your coach if you pull the brake-away key the AFO your brakes are applied on the tow. If someone pulls your break-away key from your tow you will not be able to move your tow without replacing the key or disabling the air lines. The answer looks like we should have a extra break-away key in our tow vehicle.
I carry a spare for just this reason.
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Old 04-27-2018, 11:18 PM   #16
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AF1

I have used AF One for 6 years. hen I installed it I put a toggle switch under hood which disconnected the brake switch from the system so when pin was removed the switch could deactivate the system. No need to carry extra pins and enables brake release in a controlled manner.

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Old 04-28-2018, 12:37 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
Here is a little tidbit. If you're ever disconnecting the toad and have it in neutral because it's binding......and it starts to roll on you, pull the pin, it will stop the toad.


Thanks for that tidbit. Been there and did not think to do that. I will now.
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Old 04-28-2018, 08:01 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
Here is a little tidbit. If you're ever disconnecting the toad and have it in neutral because it's binding......and it starts to roll on you, pull the pin, it will stop the toad.
Thanks from me too. Good info.
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Old 04-28-2018, 10:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
Here is a little tidbit. If you're ever disconnecting the toad and have it in neutral because it's binding......and it starts to roll on you, pull the pin, it will stop the toad.
OK Don, I'm sure that will work, but it's not near as much fun as chasing the car and trying to get the door open, then getting around the door without it running over you as you try to get in the car to hit the brakes. Where's your sense of adventure?
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Old 04-28-2018, 11:17 AM   #20
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Or...... holding onto the front end as your feet skid across the dirt wondering what's going to happen first, the car stops or your back blows out.
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Old 04-28-2018, 01:16 PM   #21
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Tom would you be kind enough to take a picture of the front end of your Durango after your towing equipment was installed. I am considering a new Durango as well.
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Old 04-28-2018, 01:36 PM   #22
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On my M&G the break away comes with a small air tank which will have enough air in it to apply brakes should the pin be pulled. I would guess the AF1 is similar.
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Old 04-28-2018, 04:56 PM   #23
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enjoyrv Have had nothing but problems posting pictures. The jpeg and ipeg seems to be the issue last time I tried. The 18 Durango with the Air Force One brake system has been a good choice so far. We got the Citadel model with the 2 speed transfer case was the unit that is tow able. Did have get the 5.7 HEMI engine to get the 2 speed transfer case. 3 rows of seats for great grand kids was what made the Durango our pick. Did have an earlier model Durango before new and it too was a excellent tow vehicle. The wobble issue hasn't been a problem. Do think the Roadmaster u-clamp for the receiver has been part of the fix for the wobble concern. Durango does have electric PS. Wasn't easy to find these Durango for the flat towing.
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Old 04-28-2018, 04:59 PM   #24
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Thanks Tom. Will send you PM.
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Old 04-28-2018, 11:27 PM   #25
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Tom, VERY interesting thread. I have had an AF1 for about four years on my coach. Never realized that the breaks would activate if I was not attached to the coach air and the pin was pulled. Thanks for posting this and thanks to all for the additional information.
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Old 04-29-2018, 05:27 AM   #26
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The switch is a great idea and I will do the same mod however it does not offset the need for a back up pin.
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Old 04-29-2018, 09:42 PM   #27
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Air Force 1

Further to my use of the Switch under hood to disconnect the Braking unit from the Emergency Switch.

I also attach the Pull Pin / Key permanently to the cord from the coach.
When I disconnect the coach from the Toad I remove the pin from the toad, then when I wish to move the toad I turn the under hood switch off which releases the brakes. The Pin/Key stays with the Coach.

As well the Air line disconnect has the Female connector/ fitting on the coach and the male connector on the toad. Thereby when the coach is not hooked to the toad there is no air signal loss. I place a cover over the the fitting on the toad connections to keep contamination out of the connections.
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Old 04-30-2018, 09:05 AM   #28
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Great points in here! I thought it prudent to address a few additional considerations I didnít see discussed:

1) Pulling the pin activates a solenoid valve. The power draw is low (.5 - 1 amp), but over time this will kill the towed's battery. Also, leaving the valve activated for extended periods will reduce the service life of the valve.

2) As was implied in the previous post, the breakaway switch is a simple design of 2 points being separated by a non-conductive pin. Using an improvised pin (such as a golf tee) will work. If the pin is lost we strongly recommend from a safety standpoint removing the fuse (as mentioned in a post above) that powers the circuit as a safety precaution. (If the pin is left out for any period of time see #4)

3) While most switches use the same pin, there are a few designs out there. Compare your spare pins to the master and carefully test them before carrying them as a backup. Iíve seen more than 1 broken switch due to an incompatible pin being forced in. (Additionally having been a part of SMI since 1999, I havenít heard of one case where a breakaway pin was stolen, however Iím not saying itís never happened so having a spare is not a bad idea.)

4) The points inside the switch are not corrosion resistant. The o-ring on the end of the pin is key to keeping them in working order. We do recommend testing it a couple times a year and cleaning them with contact cleaner as needed. If you go without the pin, the switch will be inoperable in a very short amount of time.

5) Great tip in here on removing the cap before cycling the switch. Iíve talked to customers who were dead set on driving with the pin out and cycled the pin repeatedly to dump the air so they could drive without it. Not only do the concerns in #1 apply, this also creates a closed air circuit to the actuator so that as the air line under the hood heats up from radiant heat, the air in it expands. This slowly pressurizes the line and creeps the brakes on while driving the toad.

6) Some people like to cutoff the crimped cable and use a split ring. It is more discreet, but the trade off is itís more difficult to remove the pin. If you decide to go this route, carefully test the split ring by removing the pin pulling the lanyard several times and inspect for signs of fatigue. Weíve seen more than fail or simply uncoil and pull through pin eye.


Demcoís official recommend it to alway have the pin in the switch whether towing or driving the road.

Any additional questions let me know!

Thanks,

Brent
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