Alternator Failure (I Think)

[dms]

Yes, that is correct. I'm not at my MH thus I didn't call it by the correct name, sorry. FL calls it the "bridge" switch, but you are correct...the switch is labeled "Boost".

Let us know what you find out. Good Luck!

[mre]

Originally Posted by dms

Yes, that is correct. I'm not at my MH thus I didn't call it by the correct name, sorry. FL calls it the "bridge" switch, but you are correct...the switch is labeled "Boost".

Let us know what you find out. Good Luck!

Rats, I wish I would've known that yesterday, I would have tried it. But better late than never.

I will keep you posted.

[C.Martin]

The Precision Circuits bi-directional relay is designed NOT to allow the relay to close when the Engine is running (ignition) and Generator (Gen Set or Signal) is running. The logic is...the generator will charge the house, the alternator I'll charge the chassis...and they don't want competing charge sources.

[C.Martin]

I should have added...

If your BIM is the same as ours...while your Alternator is INOP...as a temporary measure you might remove the Ignition signal wire from the BIM. This might allow the generator to charge the chassis while the engine is running. I haven’t tried this...it’s merely an idea. It still has to see certain voltages in order to close the relay...but it might help.

Make sure to carefully insulate the terminal when you remove it..and connect it back before they replace the Alternator.

[twinboat]

The thing is, he stated it worked for him the day before. The generator/ house system kept the chassis battery up.

I wonder if starting the engine first, letting the voltage drop a volt or so and then starting the generator would work.

[mre]

Originally Posted by twinboat

The thing is, he stated it worked for him the day before. The generator/ house system kept the chassis battery up.

I wonder if starting the engine first, letting the voltage drop a volt or so and then starting the generator would work.

Did all that.

["007"]

I guess I didn't give you this item yesterday, to many things going on, on this Newmar forum.

[mre]

It's done. It was altenator failure. I'm surprised we made it as far as we did. The alternator was actually disingrating from within. You can actually see broken parts inside the alternator. I don't know how we made it this far.

Since new, the coach was only producing 13.3 - 13.5 volts +/-. Now, it is producing 13.8 - 14.0 +/-. I have never seen 14 v before. Also, many times I have noticed a slight burning smell around the back of the coach. Drove 200 miles since the repair and no smell. However, I'll see over time.

Since we are travelling, campground internet and data aren't very good so pictures so are are not an option. I will sent them when things improve.

["007"]

Thanks for the follow up, some what lucky aren't you, enjoy the trip safe travels.

[mre]

Here are some pics of the altenator.

[mre]

I had a visit with Fairbanks Freightliner yesterday to inspect the installation of the altenator and see if there was anything else wrong that may be obvious. Nothing found.

Several technicians there and the service advisor looked at the altenator a none had ever seen anything like it. Their body language substantiated that. None had a reason for the failure other than manufacturer defect.

I ask what the chunks of shiny pieces of flat metal were. Apparently they are cooling fan blades.

For the first time in nearly 21,000 miles and 18 months of ownership, I have seen 14 volts (and a few spikes higher than 14 volts) on the DIC.

Now if I can the sweating dash fixed at Newmar the week of September 9 after six dealer attempts, I should be good.

[NWIP]

Originally Posted by mre

I had a visit with Fairbanks Freightliner yesterday to inspect the installation of the altenator and see if there was anything else wrong that may be obvious. Nothing found.

Several technicians there and the service advisor looked at the altenator a none had ever seen anything like it. Their body language substantiated that. None had a reason for the failure other than manufacturer defect.

I ask what the chunks of shiny pieces of flat metal were. Apparently they are cooling fan blades.

For the first time in nearly 21,000 miles and 18 months of ownership, I have seen 14 volts (and a few spikes higher than 14 volts) on the DIC.

Now if I can the sweating dash fixed at Newmar the week of September 9 after six dealer attempts, I should be good.

Thanks for update and glad your fixed. Enjoy the rest of Alaska.

[mre]

Joes2901

Your question came through in an email notification but did not show up in IRV2, at least not that I could find.

Always, the new altenator is Prestolite Leece Neville 240 amp.