Basement Auto Locking Solenoids Failing

[Ronjonaz]

I couldn't find a thread on this . If one exists, please let me know. Our 2015 DS 4018 has solenoids which " lock" the basement compartments from a central button and when locking the entry door. Actually, in the "lock" function the solenoid pushes up a metal plate which keeps the key from unlocking the door. We have had several of the solenoids fail. The problem is exacerbated when the solenoid dies in the "up" position.The key cannot open the lock and having a locksmith drill out the old lock will not move the metal plate. I checked with Newmar CS and they recommended using a pry bar to spring the door. This has happened enough that I have become paranoid and unplugged the solenoids on the critical doors (i.e. Batteries, DEF, Electric and water compartments. I heard from the Dealer that Newmar had a recall on the solenoids , but I am out of factory warranty. I would like to understand the root cause (voltage levels?) so I can avoid contributing to the issue. Any feedback would be appreciated

[tom chelbana]

We have a 18 London Aire and have one outside door that doesn't lock when all the other cabinet doors are locked. Order from Newmar the solenoid and will replace this week. Hope it's like our ceiling LED lights which we got a bad batch and had 22 burn out in the 1st 6 months. Will be interested to see other owner post on this topic.
Newmar Man

[spuds]

Originally Posted by tom chelbana

Hope it's like our ceiling LED lights which we got a bad batch and had 22 burn out in the 1st 6 months.

That LED issue is more likely the lack of a buck driver on the puck lights chosen.

[Cat]

Originally Posted by Ronjonaz

I couldn't find a thread on this . If one exists, please let me know. Our 2015 DS 4018 has solenoids which " lock" the basement compartments from a central button and when locking the entry door. Actually, in the "lock" function the solenoid pushes up a metal plate which keeps the key from unlocking the door. We have had several of the solenoids fail. The problem is exacerbated when the solenoid dies in the "up" position.The key cannot open the lock and having a locksmith drill out the old lock will not move the metal plate. I checked with Newmar CS and they recommended using a pry bar to spring the door. This has happened enough that I have become paranoid and unplugged the solenoids on the critical doors (i.e. Batteries, DEF, Electric and water compartments. I heard from the Dealer that Newmar had a recall on the solenoids , but I am out of factory warranty. I would like to understand the root cause (voltage levels?) so I can avoid contributing to the issue. Any feedback would be appreciated

Could your switch be sticking and keeping the power on. These solenoids usually just get power for just a second as you push the switch. If they stay powered it will burn them up. Just a thought Safe Travels

[DrPhil]

Got one that started not working on this trip. Suppose I’ll need to order up a part, but I did want to take it apart and properly diagnosis before. At delivery I had an issue, but it was some sort of a short that affected several bay doors, not just one. In fact it was this one and all other door forward of that on the drivers side (maybe wired serially?)

[Switt]

Newmar told me to turn off chassis batteries for about one minute and see if the actuator would reset but mine had froze in the lock position and would not reset replacing the actuator is an easy job. Got the door open by loosening the cover at the top and pushing the latch with a screwdriver.

[Dutch Star Don]

"Ronjonaz"......On my 2014, they had a bay lock system recall. If I remember correctly, if the battery voltage got low, the solenoids would start chattering and could catch fire. It was a quick fix to the Trimark lock module.

[DrPhil]

Here are some pictures of the lock system. Note that the key is mechanically attached to the silver locking arm controlled by the solenoid. Turning the key ‘should’ rotate the arm clockwise and out of the way of the latching mechanism as shown. Btw, I ordered a replacement from Newmar - ~$75.

[RMD3819]

I bought a solenoid like the one above for $7.63. Took about a month from Hong Kong.

Cheapest one stateside was $45.

There is a cheaper style more widely available that has more of a cylinder shape to it but I don't know if it will fit the later models.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Tr...72.m2749.l2649

[Ronjonaz]

Originally Posted by DrPhil

Here are some pictures of the lock system. Note that the key is mechanically attached to the silver locking arm controlled by the solenoid. Turning the key ‘should’ rotate the arm clockwise and out of the way of the latching mechanism as shown. Btw, I ordered a replacement from Newmar - ~$75. Attachment 232007
Attachment 232008

Yup..... been down that route..I was able to come in from another compartment and get access to the latch and take the assembly apart,.but the key will not move the metal plate...I could actually break the key off trying...my current problem is on the first compartment door on the driver side (fuse panel) and here is no other compartment by which to gain access. This has gone on intermittently for three years. I would like to know what I am doing wrong...btw...just had the house batteries replaced with with Lifelne AGM

[Ronjonaz]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

"Ronjonaz"......On my 2014, they had a bay lock system recall. If I remember correctly, if the battery voltage got low, the solenoids would start chattering and could catch fire. It was a quick fix to the Trimark lock module.

Had a similar event two years ago...I left the Inverter on and drew down the batteries..the storage folks called me and said my coach was making "clattering" noises. It was the solenoids cycling.

[bruceisla]

Usually the reason for the key not working is that the solenoid has been activated and remains activated (voltage still applied). The continuous activation causes the solenoid to overheat and melt ... the melted cylinder cannot be released. The actuator is usually a readily available car part.

[DrPhil]

Originally Posted by Ronjonaz

Yup..... been down that route..I was able to come in from another compartment and get access to the latch and take the assembly apart,.but the key will not move the metal plate...I could actually break the key off trying...my current problem is on the first compartment door on the driver side (fuse panel) and here is no other compartment by which to gain access. This has gone on intermittently for three years. I would like to know what I am doing wrong...btw...just had the house batteries replaced with with Lifelne AGM

This seems like a very real problem! Wonder if you could bend a fairly stiff rod into just the right shape to work through the bottom seal and sacrifically pop off the inside plastic cover. Then use another custom shaped rod to assist a key by pushing on the silver piece on its top lip where you’d have a bit of leverage. Another tool that would be helpful would be an endoscopic camera so you could see what’s going on inside the bay while you are doing the work. I’d of course also dry practice both on another door first.

[lakebuster]

We only lock the deadbolt from inside at night and with key when leaving. I became worried after reading people being locked out of their MH’s. So hatches are never locked.