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Old 05-17-2011, 09:03 PM   #1
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Battery Isolator switch - where is it please?

It seems I have a problem with this as my coach and house batteries seem constantly linked. Can someone advise me on where to find this switch so I can try and fix please? Thanks!
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:19 PM   #2
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lezmark,
Me again... Sorry pal, but you seem to have misinterpreted my comment about the battery isolator... it is the least likely of your culprits. There is no "switch" to locate. The battery isolator is a solid-state device which is hard wired into your alternator charging circuit...if you even have one.
Please go back and re-read the posts. Both RJay and I feel that you have a faulty Boost solenoid which has defaulted in the "ON" position.
Please don't do anything else until you positively rule out the Battery Boost solenoid which, when properly functioning, ties your house and coach batteries together as you are pushing the switch.
Jim
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Good man View Post
lezmark,
Me again... Sorry pal, but you seem to have misinterpreted my comment about the battery isolator... it is the least likely of your culprits. There is no "switch" to locate. The battery isolator is a solid-state device which is hard wired into your alternator charging circuit...if you even have one.
Please go back and re-read the posts. Both RJay and I feel that you have a faulty Boost solenoid which has defaulted in the "ON" position.
Please don't do anything else until you positively rule out the Battery Boost solenoid which, when properly functioning, ties your house and coach batteries together as you are pushing the switch.
Jim
You are right - I did misunderstand. Thanks for all the help - I will be on this in the morning!
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:30 AM   #4
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Lezmark, Newmar installs a B.I.R.D System that maintains both your house batteries and chassis battery.
The following links will explain.
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:39 AM   #5
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The Battery control system on my coach does that too, however if the voltage starts to drop then the system will isolate, it's voltage senistive

Thus I can run the house batteries down to the "Way too low" point (I mean lights won't point) and still fire up the main engine using its battery.

If I disconnect the house batteries by lifting the negative wires.. It takes 1/2 to 1 minute before the house goes dark.
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Old 05-18-2011, 12:40 PM   #6
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Hi lezmark,
What problem are you trying to solve?
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:54 PM   #7
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The BiRD and the isolator solinoid are probably both in the same enclosure. Mine is in the underhood compartment, up behind the wiper motor. It is an enclosure with a clear plexiglass cover. With your problem, it could be either the solinoid, or the BiRD. You should be able to troubleshoot by lifting the lead from the BiRD to the isolator solinoid. If it then isolates, it is then the BiRD, if not, the contacts in the solinoid have probably stuck(fused) together. (note, the leads on the BiRD are marked, and connect with pushon connectors, easy to lift the lead). One thing to note, if you have 13.1 volts or greater, from either the alternator, or the house convertor, the BiRD should have the lead to the solinoid energized, and both systems connected together at the solinoid. Note for others, this information is specific to the type of system that Newmar uses, other manufacturers will probably be different. Also note, vs other posts, this solinoid functions both as the boost solinoid AND the isolator solinoid. The BiRD powers it for chargeing, the dash switch powers it for battery boost. If you determine it is the solinoid, it is probably a White-Rogers brand, contact me for some further information on this.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:01 PM   #8
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More info on BIRD with picture in box on fire wall.

Go to page 23 of these diagrams for wiring of BIRD & Solenoid
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";857799]More info on [B][URL="http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/coach-battery-charging-80887.html#post748992
BIRD with picture[/URL][/B] in box on fire wall.

Go to page 23 of these diagrams for wiring of BIRD & Solenoid

007, thanks for the photo, it is raining, cold and windy here today, so I didn't feel like going out to look at mine. For LEZMARK, in my previous post, where I mention the solinoid lead, on the BiRD, it is labeled, "relay". (you can also follow that lead, to find the isolator solinoid if you don't recognize it otherwise) I had to troubleshoot mine recently and replaced the solinoid, look in the section on "quick tips and easy mods" for more information from myself and others.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:19 AM   #10
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I will tell you if you have an Intelletec Battery Control Center (Mine is under the hood on this gasser) it can
be real hard to find the solenoids themselves.. They are buried inside the "Guts" of that box.

There are, However, test points to check for control power to them (Thankfully)

But just for fun, without shore power, turn on a light or two, then disconnect the house battery and sit back for like 2 minutes, See if the light goes out.


Method 2 for finding the solenoid.. With everythign else turned off, have a partner slowly cycle the Battery switch, On/neutray/off/neutral/on/neutral.

You should hear a ClUNK, CLUNK every time they take it out of neutral (Assumes a 3 position switch, center is neutral) Follow the clunks to the relay.

With no current draw this will not wear out the relay.

Also inside that box is a 5 amp fuse.. Provides power to the remote control switch (Dash or door or wherever) you use to control the relay.
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