Community Forums

Rotten-Red · 03-21-2018, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlott2k

If you have a leak, you need to replace your black valve. This cap could help with minimizing the spray until you get it fixed. Install with the hose attachment at the bottom. Open the hose cap while your slinky is under it to catch the drippage.Attachment 196209

He's already doing that.

twinknkate · 03-21-2018, 11:44 AM

Replacing the black valve may (or probably won't) fix the problem. Ours did the same thing and Newmar replaced the valves under warranty. We still had the problem. DH was tired of getting an unwanted shower. This has been the first coach we have ever had an issue with--all have been gassers and the one before this was a Newmar MA gas. Never a leak issue. Bought the 45 degree Camco valve for the easy fix.

wildtoad · 03-22-2018, 06:27 AM

Seems that the folks that this “burst of stuff” has happened to are all for adding the third valve at the end of the pipe. Something that Newmar should have done. I am one of them. Those that have thus far avoided the issue have something to look forward to. One never really knows if the valve is fully closed, or damaged after dumping and flushing the black tank. For the low cost it seems to be good insurance against a potential face full of crud.

belfast1949 · 03-23-2018, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayza

Not a good morning for me. Went to go hookup sewer this morning after our drive yesterday. When removing the drain cap there was some pressure and literally got a face full of sewage. Still dry heaving thinking about it.

I've been having issues with my new 2018 BS regarding the tanks. I was always able to completely flush and clean out my old motorhome (Forest River) even if I had no gray water. I will

1. Empty black
2. Empty gray if there is any
3. Flush the black for about 5 minutes
4. Close the black and let it fill up for ~10-15 seconds with water
5. Empty/Flush the black again for 1 minute
6. Turn off flush
7. Wait ~1 minute until everything has drained out
8. Close cap

It seems with the BS I always get some drips or leakage when removing the drain cap especially after driving. The dealer mentioned that people have to use the levelers on their coach to tilt the RV to the side to get it to drain properly. This sounds like a design flaw to me.

What are others doing? What am I doing wrong?

We just took delivery on our BS Sport 2903 and have dumped twice. Both times there was residue in the line past the gate valve. I concur there is a design flaw i.e. a flat spot in the line past the gate valve. I have yet to buy it but will measure to make sure I have room and if yes, will buy the valterra unit. That should solve it.

belfast1949 · 03-23-2018, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildtoad

Seems that the folks that this “burst of stuff” has happened to are all for adding the third valve at the end of the pipe. Something that Newmar should have done. I am one of them. Those that have thus far avoided the issue have something to look forward to. One never really knows if the valve is fully closed, or damaged after dumping and flushing the black tank. For the low cost it seems to be good insurance against a potential face full of crud.

I watched a blog post of "We are the Russos" a video blog from 2903 owners. They added the Valterra third valve. I was prepared for this the first time we dumpled....sort of....because was convinced ours would be okay and they just got a bad one. Nope, I got a half gallon of grey water in the compartment before I could react. I could take it in under warranty but a $25 fix is okay by me.

yogus · 03-23-2018, 03:35 PM

I just ordered the Valterra Twist on unit.

Last weekend we went camping after having the rig in for service for two weeks. Two weeks previously we had to camp at the dealer overnight because of a slideout issue. We ended up dumping both tanks at the dealer. We store it at the dealer also-indoors.

We had an odd issue with the dumping that seems to happen once in a while-the black will empty, then grey and then it seems to drain all the potable water-the clear running water will go on for 15 minutes. This happened two weeks ago. So, we were totally empty. We cleaned the hose, stored it and we left the rig and went home.

When we got to the camp ground last weekend DH took off the cap to the black tank and a Xhit load of sewage came out!! I mean lots of crap! He quickly got the stinky slinky on and it drained for a couple of minutes. WTH?!

We had lots of ick to clean up.

When we got in the rig I noticed that the TP was changed out and the bowl was dirty! I had cleaned it completely before we left. Someone had used our toilet while it was in for service! It was a different brand of TP than I keep in the rig and it was a full roll and it was installed backward. I put it on with it hanging over. ALWAYS. This was installed with it under.

Bottom line, I discussed this with the Service Tech who handles our rig and asked him to pass it on. I would appreciate it if NO ONE uses our toilet.

"007" · 03-23-2018, 03:39 PM

Has anyone tried to drill a small hole top of drain pipe and screwed a tire valve with the valve stem inserted and pressed the valve stem to release any pressure in that drain pipe in question.
Just a idea from, 007

garbonz · 03-23-2018, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by "007"

Has anyone tried to drill a small hole top of drain pipe and screwed a tire valve with the valve stem inserted and pressed the valve stem to release any pressure in that drain pipe in question.
Just a idea from, 007

They didn't like that drilla hole in the cap at all, but I'm not 007 so maybe it's ok if you propose it.

Rotten-Red · 03-23-2018, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garbonz

They didn't like that drilla hole in the cap at all, but I'm not 007 so maybe it's ok if you propose it.

007's idea is a little different than yours. You were just going to drill a hole in the cap. That would relieve the pressure but if the pipe happened to fill up because of a leaking slide valve then liquid would leak all over in the wet bay going unnoticed until someone opened the door. His idea is to put a valve stem in the hole he drills. That would keep the pipe sealed. However if the pipe fills up due to a leaking slide valve when he pushes the valve core down to relieve the pressure he will have a nice water feature, a fountain.

Neither idea is good. The best solution seems to be what so many are doing. Adding the third slide valve.

garbonz · 03-24-2018, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rotten-Red

007's idea is a little different than yours. You were just going to drill a hole in the cap. That would relieve the pressure but if the pipe happened to fill up because of a leaking slide valve then liquid would leak all over in the wet bay going unnoticed until someone opened the door. His idea is to put a valve stem in the hole he drills. That would keep the pipe sealed. However if the pipe fills up due to a leaking slide valve when he pushes the valve core down to relieve the pressure he will have a nice water feature, a fountain.

Neither idea is good. The best solution seems to be what so many are doing. Adding the third slide valve.

Why is the third slide any different than a small hole or a pressure valve. Same thing in practice and a bandaid at best.

Like I said, if it is a minor weeping, then no problem all these solutions work, of it fills up the entire cavity, then non of these solutions work, you just push the problem downhill.

The second gate valve is not a solution, it is a bandaid like the hole is. No difference.

wildtoad · 03-24-2018, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by "007"

Has anyone tried to drill a small hole top of drain pipe and screwed a tire valve with the valve stem inserted and pressed the valve stem to release any pressure in that drain pipe in question.
Just a idea from, 007

Drilling a hole in the end cap or adding a pressure relief valve doesn’t solve the problem when there is “stuff” liquid or otherwise in the pipe that has to go somewhere when the cap comes off.

The third valve gives you the opportunity to attach the stinky slinky to the end of the pipe so the stuff that is in the pipe has somewhere to go other than in the wet bay or in your face. As it is you don’t know what’s behind door #1 until you open the door. Could be nothing or could be a surprise.

I’m actually amazed this thread has gone on for four pages....

garbonz · 03-24-2018, 05:07 PM

OP title was "explosion" and the vent or hole solves the original question.

Just saying.

A lot of useless threads go on and on here.

wildtoad · 03-24-2018, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garbonz

OP title was "explosion" and the vent or hole solves the original question.

Just saying.

A lot of useless threads go on and on here.

True enough, but what happens when there is, for whatever reason, a leak at one of the valves at the tank, and that long tube fills with grey or black liquid or worse. The offered solution of a third valve that one can attach the slinky to solves the “Just gas” or the “gas and material” problem.

I can tell you from experience it does not make for a good day....

StevL · 03-24-2018, 07:24 PM

Can we just assume for a moment all gate valves factory installed are working properly.

The problem is that the long pipe doesn’t have enough slope to drain all the fluid and debris. After driving the fluids being sloshed around find the low point at the cap....now what?

How would you fix this problem?

Steve