Brake Lights

[alteredloc]

I have a 2001 Dutch Star Pusher. I tow a 24ft enclosed trailer with electric brakes. My motorhome has an auxillary braking system which, when activated, signals the brake lights to come on as soon as I take my foot off the throttle. I do not have to be depressing the brake for the brake lights to come on. The problem is that my trailer brakes are signaled by the brake lights thus activating them as soon as my foot comes off the throttle. I have burned up a set of brakes on my trailer already.

I understand that the brake light activation in conjunction with the auxillary brake is simply a programming thing and can be de-activated so my brake lights will only come on when the brake pedal is depressed.

My motorhome is on a Frieghtliner chassis and has a Cat motor. Is this a Freightliner thing or a Cat thing?

Thanks.

[bigskymt]

Are you talking about your exhaust brake? We have that setup and only use the exhaust brake when needed.
You can "feather" your throttle to prevent the exhaust brake or back off the trailer brakes activation.
Some exhaust brakes can be programmed by a Cat dealer to come on with a throttle tapping motion. Not sure what system you have.

[Skip426]

I'll come in on this discussion because I assume I'll be having the same issue when I hook up my towed brake system . My 99 DSDP F/L with Cat. has the same brake light function when the exaust brake is ingauged and if there is a solution I'd like to know about it in advance.
Thanks.

[alteredloc]

After doing some more investigaton and tallking with my local Freightliner service guy, I think my cheapest solution is to purchase a higher quality brake controller. There are 2 types of brake controllers. Proportional and Time Delayed.

The Time Delayed models send a predetermined amount of braking force to the trailer brakes when they are activated (either brake pedal or auxillary brake) and then there is a delay as the units ramps up to full power. I believe this is what I have. So...the problem is that the brakes come on immediately with the auxillary brake (or Jake brake/exhaust brake) and stay on through the pedal activation. This is way too long...and I burned up a set of trailer brakes.

The Proportional controller senses the deceleration of the vehicle and evenly applies the trailer brakes in proportion to the amount of brake force applied by the tow vehicle. This force is irrespective of which braking system of the tow vehicle is in use.

So...I think if I upgrade my brake controller to a proportional brake controller
($80 to $350) and get rid of the cheap one I have ($40 Autozone), my problem should be eliminated. At a shop rate of $125 per hour, plus the time and effort to get it to the service department...upgrading my brake controller is a no brainer.

Hopefully I was able to help someone else.

Thanks

[hes4all]

Put a dieod to stop the signal from the jake brake. Easy fix.

[Skip426]

alteredloc, I think the unit you'll have to look for will have a built in de-celerometer, I've heard about these controllers but hadn't needed one till now. Check the brand name web pages to confirm the units operation before you buy.
hes4all, the brake light activation while the engine brake is operating is a safety feature I enjoy; paticularly with the trans downshifting to slow the coach; it keeps the rigs off your back bumper, without having to apply the service brakes or run down hill with the flashers on, listening to the signal beeper. In MHO over riding it would be a no-no.

[hes4all]

My controller still works with the foot brakes, just not with the Jake brake. I have seen many brakes on trailer smoking because the jake brake turns on the trailer brakes.

[Skip426]

hes4all, my appoligies. I should have sat down with a wiring diagram when you posted the diode solution. I couldn't figure out the placement in my head. Did you size the diode to the load or just use a big one. Supplier ? Part number ? Had one laying around? Your fix, or read it somewhere in the forums ? Did you go to the brake light switch output wires or find the splice that feeds the exaust brake controler feed into the brake light wiring?
alteredloc, hes4all has the fix that should work with your existing controller.
hes4all, can you post all the details of the diode install. Again I'm sorry I din't see the light when you first shone it in my eyes. Sometimes if your to close to the wall you can't read what's written on it.
This fix might be a good one for "007 & RJay " to be aware of,too.

[alteredloc]

I am all ears/eyes. I think even if I upgrade my controller, the diode solution could given added protection in those long downhill grades.

Thank you for all your input guys.

[hes4all]

I place the diode to stop the brake light signal to the trailer brakes from the Jake brake. On my coach 07 Mountain Aire, it was real easy to find the wire off the jake brake that sent the signal. The controller still works with the foot brake. I also had to do the same years ago on my 2001 coach. Here is the info on the dieod: splice into your tow car's wiring without damaging expensive electronic components.
Roadmaster's heavy duty Hy-Power diodes prevent electrical feedback and reduce wiring hassles. Converts from domestic to import wiring. 85 amp rating and 350 degree tolerance guarantee trouble-free operation with any vehicle, including Saturns. Aluminum housing dissipates heat for a long life. Double-sided tape for easy installation without drilling. Includes electrical connectors. USA. You can get them at Camping World. Thanks

[hes4all]

Let me try to help you a little with what I had to do to install the diode. First of all, it is a lot easier if you have 2 people. It was just me so I had to go in and out of the coach. I first pulled out the generator to expose the foot air brake value on the driver side of the coach. I then got my light tester to isolate the signal from the brake first and then the Jake. On my coach, both wires went in to the brake air pod, why, I don't know but it sure made it easier to find the Jake brake light wire. I just put the diode in there so the power could only flow from the foot brake and not the Jake. Once you do it, it becomes real clear on how it works. I have also helped a few friends do this too. It is just nice using the Jake and not have to turn down the trailer brakes or worry about them getting too hot. Thanks, hope this helps?

[Skip426]

Thanks hes4all.
alteredloc. there is a picture of what you will see at the air brake foot valve posted in Freightliner Chassis Forums. in the " should I hook this up " thread. If you require any further info or a wiring diagram; maybe hes4all or I can draw one up and scan it through to you.

[alteredloc]

Many thanks gentlmen. I will take a look at that thread. I am still going to upgrade my controller but this solution will give me the added piece of mind.

Again Thanks.