Community Forums

jesilvas · 06-18-2013, 06:28 PM

Even if you had a 3 way refr with a 12V heating element, it is only meant to be used while driving (high volts, 14V+) and to keep the refr cool, not cool it down.

"007" · 06-18-2013, 06:45 PM

The fridge works with 12v supplying the control board which determines the use of LP or AC elements while on AUTO MODE.
You can force the use of either LP or AC but still need the 12v control board to do it.
You do have the house battery cut off on all the time your using you coach don't you?

irvwood · 06-18-2013, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by irvwood

Well the fridge went out this morning. Did the magnet thing and when the wife pushed the on/off button the fridge came on. When we disconnect the shore power the Propane does come on automatically. (We have fridge on (Auto). We have propane to other appliances. When the fridge goes out pushing the on and off button nothing at all happens. If you push the propane button, nothing happens. We are hooked up to shorepower all the time that this is happening. If fridge goes out again I will try the unplugging of the 120V power cord that is inside the panel. RV'ing is a learning experience that is for sure. Thanks again. will let you know progress

Okay all has been tried and still the problem persists. Just went to the fridge and the light on the outside of the door (cold/coldest button) was off. I opened the fridge and the light came on (cold/coldest button) but the light inside the fridge did not. The light inside is okay. Every now and then it goes out while the fridge door is open and the fridge is on. If I push the on and off button nothing happens. The mode button and cold/coldest button both work. Just opened the fridge door again. The light came on in the fridge then the fridge went off and the light went out. While holding door of fridge open the light came off and on twice. So with the cold/coldest button on I held the door on the fridge open and manually pushed the off/on switch that operates when the door is closed. I could hear 3 clicks as the light went off and on while the door was open. Obviously this is some kind of electrical problem that we will have to live with or get rid of the fridge. Of course when we took it to our dealer the damn thing worked. I am not willing to sit at the dealership and wait for the fridge to do its thing. Nothing wrong with the propane.

"007" · 06-18-2013, 07:41 PM

Sounds like your front face button controller has a problem, dealer should be able to test with another to see if controls work correctly.
Once you put on fridge the light inside should come on when opening the door, should not have to keep pushing buttons for it to come on.
There is a plug wire down to the main control board.

ruffian · 06-18-2013, 07:59 PM

I replaced my Norcold cooling unit and control board with an Amish cooling unit and a dinosaur control board. I have a problem similar to yours.

When the reefer has a very momentary loss of 120V with a rapid return of 120V the unit shuts down. It appears the control board goes into some kind of lock-out. No codes are displayed.

Last week we had a power outage here at the house. MH plugged in. Outage was less than two seconds. Didn't think about the MH until the next morning. It was up to 70 Deg. in the fridge section.

This has also happened when the reefer is plugged into the Inverter circuit and the inverter switches from supplied shore power to 12V.

It appears the board gets hung up when the 120V goes away and the unit tries to switch to propane and the 120V comes back. I'm not using the inverter power for the reefer any more.

I didn't have this problem with the old Norcold board but now I don't worry about fire.

irvwood · 06-19-2013, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by "007"

The fridge works with 12v supplying the control board which determines the use of LP or AC elements while on AUTO MODE.
You can force the use of either LP or AC but still need the 12v control board to do it.
You do have the house battery cut off on all the time your using you coach don't you?

Yes we do have the house battery cut off on all the time. We live in our unit. I have placed the fridge directly on AC not AU yesterday and as of this morning the fridge is working properly, no shut down as yet.. I am starting to think that it may have to do with the control buttons on the front of the fridge as one member suggested

irvwood · 06-19-2013, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by "007"

Sounds like your front face button controller has a problem, dealer should be able to test with another to see if controls work correctly.
Once you put on fridge the light inside should come on when opening the door, should not have to keep pushing buttons for it to come on.
There is a plug wire down to the main control board.

I am thinking the same re front face button controller problem. I placed the fridge on AC took it off AU yesterday so far this morning all is working well. We can live with this set up. We will do the changing over from AC to LP when needed. Thanks

irvwood · 06-19-2013, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ruffian

I replaced my Norcold cooling unit and control board with an Amish cooling unit and a dinosaur control board. I have a problem similar to yours.

When the reefer has a very momentary loss of 120V with a rapid return of 120V the unit shuts down. It appears the control board goes into some kind of lock-out. No codes are displayed.

Last week we had a power outage here at the house. MH plugged in. Outage was less than two seconds. Didn't think about the MH until the next morning. It was up to 70 Deg. in the fridge section.

This has also happened when the reefer is plugged into the Inverter circuit and the inverter switches from supplied shore power to 12V.

It appears the board gets hung up when the 120V goes away and the unit tries to switch to propane and the 120V comes back. I'm not using the inverter power for the reefer any more.

I didn't have this problem with the old Norcold board but now I don't worry about fire.

It would seem like the same problem. The control board going into some kind of a lock-out. I changed the fridge to AC and took it off AU yesterday as of this morning everything is working. We can live with manually changing over from AC to LP when needed. Thanks for your help.

irvwood · 06-19-2013, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXiceman

I suspect the 12 VDC control power is being killed (shut off). Without the 12 VDC power, the frig will not switch to propane/

Ken

Yesterday I took the fridge off AU and placed it on AC. When placed on LP the fridge works fine as well. As one member suggested it may have something to do with the control buttons on the door. Some kind of shut down when on AU. In any case we can live that and just switch fridge over manually. Thanks for your help.

P.S tried all the suggestions passed on to us, which is really appreciated and have came to the above conclusion.

irvwood · 06-20-2013, 09:32 AM

Good Morning All: Just an update on our Norcold fridge problem. Since we put the Fridge on AC all is well. Something wrong with the unit when it is on AU. Frankly My Dear I Don't Give a Damn. Thanks you all for your help. Sure got a better understanding on the operation of the fridge etc.

fishngjb · 06-23-2013, 02:41 PM

We have the 4-door with ice maker in our 2010 Canyon Star. Our refrigerator cut off just after having our washed & polished while staying at Myrtle Beach in May. I caught up with the clean-up crew still working in the campground, asked if water from power washer got into back of refrigerator. He came right over with a magnet and reset it, showing my husband how to do this should it happen again.

"007" · 06-23-2013, 02:52 PM

Good service and now you know as how a dealer may do it and charge you for it.

irvwood · 06-24-2013, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by "007"

Did you clean the ceramic sensor so control can recognize there is a LP flame activated?

4 days ago we took the fridge off AU and put it on AC. When we disconnect the shore power the propane comes on.. The fridge has worked just fine since then. I am thinking there is something wrong with the AU in the panel at the front of the fridge.

"007" · 06-24-2013, 02:09 PM

Its the only thing left, I wonder if you have some diagnostics in your fridge manual to test that panel.
What model fridge do you have?
Also the panel must go to control panel possibly via a telephone cord, not sure.
Could disconnect and clean with contact spray see if it helps may have slit corrosion on connections.