Changing Fuel Filters (Side Radiator Dutch Star

[Dutch Star Don]

I finished my coach service today by changing the fuel filters. I've changed the filters on my Monaco numerous times and had it down to a science. Changing the, easy to access, filters on my Dutch Star was an all new process for me. There are some things that may help others that haven't changed them yet or may need to change them on the road.



I have the Alliance primary filter as seen on the left (yellow) part #ABP/N122-R50419. It's the water separating filter with a drain bowl on the bottom.

This filter has two electrical connections and a drain.



If you want to drain the filter before removal, there is a barbed nipple (left side of the photo) on the drain where a tube can be attached and placed in a pan below the engine. Turn the knurled knob and drain.

The two electrical connections on the right is where I got into a little trouble. The connection closest to you in the photo has a clip and disconnects directly from the bottom of the filter.

The other connection, seen at the back right can be unscrewed from the filter, but shouldn't. If you unscrew it, fuel runs out...trust me. Instead, about six inches below the filter is a connector for this lead and should be disconnected there.

I had to use a strap wrench to remove this filter for the first time. I had to put the body of the old filter in a vice to remove the drain bowl which is reinstalled on the new filter. Once removed, the new filter comes with two O-rings. One is for reinstalling the drain bowl and one is for the top of the filter. It's obvious which one goes where.

I always like to prefill my fuel filters, even though Cummins says it's not necessary. The one time I didn't on my Diplomat, I couldn't get it started. With that said, you can't gracefully prefill this Alliance filter because the top is flat and fuel won't pool as you try to fill it. It's moot because you have a primer for this filter.

I reinstalled the primary and moved on to the secondary. My coach came with a Fleetguard FF63008. That filter has been discontinued and has been replaced by FF63009. On the original FF63008, there is a square hole in the bottom of the filter that will accept a 1/2" drive ratchet. Off it came. The new FF63009 is plastic and has a hex head on the bottom that can loosened with a 1" socket. This filter came with a center hole cap and had a deep enough well that I prefilled this one. Never fill the center as that fuel will be unfiltered. The cap makes filling convenient.

Once both were installed, I removed the red cap from the fuel primer and started pumping. Each pump filled the filter about a 1/2" with fuel. After about 20 pumps, I turned the ignition on and let the fuel pump cycle. I went back to the primer and it took about 20 more pumps before the primer got hard to push. I started the coach, checked for leaks and I was good to go.

I know this is pretty basic, but sometimes it's easier to tackle a project like this if you can read about it first. I know it's easier for me.

[DieselTech39]

Great post Don. Should help a number of folks.

[96 Wideglide]

Any idea what the second electrical lead going to the primary/ water separator is for?

[Dutch Star Don]

The one I unscrewed from the bowl had a sensor on the end, so I'm guessing one is for water sensor. There is a round ring attached to electrical connection. Almost looked like a heating element, but I don't know. Maybe someone else knows what the other is for.

[hawgguy]

One lead os for a water-in-fuel sensor. The other is a heating element I believe.

Great write up Don. The setup for the ISB-XT on my 2011 Ventana was almost identical, except you had do do it all lying on your back with tough access. I wish I had your write up the first time I did it. That Alliance filter was hard to find as I recall. The first time I did it I put the filters in dry and did not realize there was a priming pump. I thought I'd never get that thing started again. Good stress test for the starter & battery. Once I realized it had a priming pump - and how well the priming pump works, I never had another problem - even installing the secondary dry.

[Dutch Star Don]

I don't know why they keep changing filter types and numbers every year. I to had to hunt around to find the Alliance. Why wouldn't they just use a Fleetguard filter since the other is a Fleetguard.

Then, Cummins/Fleetguard keeps changing numbers. Lastly, this new FF63009 is plastic. It looks durable, I hope it isn't an issue.

[96 Wideglide]

Yeah, the diesel slowly disolves the plastic. They dont want anyone going 5yrs, and 50,000mi without selling them a new filter !

[hawgguy]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

I don't know why they keep changing filter types and numbers every year. I to had to hunt around to find the Alliance. Why wouldn't they just use a Fleetguard filter since the other is a Fleetguard.

Couldn't agree more. Freightliner was a good source for the Alliance for me.
My IXS uses a real oddball primary filter that I wound up buying from a marine supply warehou$e.

[Dutch Star Don]

I didn't know what the second electrical connection was for and thought that it attached to what look liked a heating unit. Good guess....it is a heating unit in the fuel bowl. I haven't seen that before.

[slabman]

Sounds a little early for you to be changing filters, Don? What schedule does FL have for this? I'm over 9k miles now and don't want to do it prematurely since a new one costs over 50 bucks! What do they make these things out of?

[Dutch Star Don]

"slabman".....in the Freightliner manual, they have a tear out at the back with all the servicing and when it's to be done. It's not a bad manual and actually walks you through each service item on the list, in order ,with pictures for dummies like me. The manual calls for the first service at 6000 miles.

It has a LOT of items on the list with most of those being a check only. But.....it has several things they want changed after the first 6000 miles. The following are change items; oil, filter, fuel filters and power steering filter. There are two odd requests that I didn't do. They wanted the fan drive gear box, drained, flushed and refilled. They also wanted the power steering drained and filled.

The power steering filter is built right into the plastic power steering reservoir. I had to go to a Freightliner shop to find the filter.

I know a lot of this is overkill, but I already had 8200 miles on the coach and would have changed the oil no matter what. I also added a Fumoto valve during the oil change.

I tried to buy the gear box flush they recommended in the manual at Freightliner. The parts guy laughed and said they don't sell any flush and he never heard of doing that. They sent me next door to service where I asked about it. They also said they had never heard of it being done. They said, with a wink, just by the fluid, Mobil Delvac 75W-90 and keep the receipt.

The fluid change on the gear box and power steering are asked for again at 30000. I would have actually changed the gear box fluid (no flush), but it's going to take a small boy with 40" arms to reach it.

I'm actually glad I did the service. I found what I've seen before on these coaches. The u-joint yoke was far from full and took a half a tube of grease. I like lubing the u-joints every 5000 so that was done.

While crawling around up front, I found the steering box was probably a 1000 miles from falling off. I spoke about that in another post. Today I loosened it back up, added Loctite and hammered the nuts back on.

Lastly, the HWH assembly at the front of the coach already had fluid dripping down the side and was filthy. The fluid looks like it was coming from the breather, the same thing my Monaco did. I washed everything off and created a foam gasket, like those battery acid reducers you put under your battery cables, but about 3" in diameter and 1" thick with a hole in the center. I slid it down over the breather cap. The foam should absorb any fluid overflow. I can just clean it during the next service. I'll probably remove the cap when I get time and see if I can extend the pipe, raising the cap higher on the unit. I did this on my Monaco. I added a 3" pipe under the breather so fluid would have to climb the pipe to spill out, yet the breather still worked well.

How was that for a long winded answer?

I also did one more project today. It was something I did to my Monaco. I added a mud flap in front of the coach steps. It helped to keep road debris off of the steps and mechanisms. This is the one I put on the Monaco. I haven't photographed the Dutch Star yet.

[slabman]

Wow! You HAVE been busy.....and I thought you had completed just about every imaginable item one could have on his list! Now ya got me going....better dig into my Spartan manual. I love that mud flap idea, since those steps can get pretty ratty without some protection. Thanks for the tips.

[Dave Reyburn]

Thanks for the helpful post Don. Posts like these will keep helping people years into the future!

[jrs]

Thanks again Don! You're an outstanding contributor to this forum and it's appreciated. Man.... you're a machine at posting