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Old 09-10-2014, 03:34 PM   #15
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Hi TinMan Trvlr,
My coach's 5 WATT solar panel has worked as advertised for 9 years. Before doing anything, consider contacting Newmar and determining:
1. Where to take a measurement to determine if the solar panel is working properly.
2. Where to take a measurement to determine if the parasite draws on your chassis battery(s) are what Newmar expects.

Once these questions are answered, one can make a decision as to the next steps to take. Throwing $s at a fix without having appropriate data to justify the decision, may not bring to desired result.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:43 PM   #16
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Tinman, I am no way an expert on the electrical systems of the MH. But are you turning off the battery disconect switch to the entire MH when you store it. I don't know what model/year ect you have, but on ours (we have the 5watt roof top chassis battery charger) if I turn off the battery disconnect and leave the MH sit, my battery stays fresh. I think the longest I have left it sit without starting the engine has been about 6 weeks. When I turn the battery disconnect back on my chassi battery still shows above 12v.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:46 PM   #17
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I disagree about not needing a controler for a 25 watt solar panel. I had a 7 watt without a controller. It would charge the battery by day but it would discharge it at night. Once I bought a controller it would charge during the day and do nothing at night. That's how you keep your RV battery charged.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:49 PM   #18
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solar panels are often connect straight to the batteries when a controller is not being used.

I think if you look at your batteries you will see two wires, perhaps a #12 or so in size. Just disconnect and see what the voltage is, ask newmar what is should be.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebreeze View Post
I disagree about not needing a controler for a 25 watt solar panel. I had a 7 watt without a controller. It would charge the battery by day but it would discharge it at night. Once I bought a controller it would charge during the day and do nothing at night. That's how you keep your RV battery charged.

I really don't think that can happen.

I had a 200 watt panel charging a battery bank for two years, not on an RV but it was no issue
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:02 PM   #20
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TinMan, I also forgot to add, that our MH is prewired for an additional rooftop solar panel. There is a little cover on the roof which the wires are under, and then there are a couple of open end wires laying near your existing batteries if you have it. If you have a newer Newmar your's should be prewired too. I have found that before jumping to unwarranted worries or expenses check the obvious first as mentioned by Gary. I can't tell you how many times I thought I had a big problem, was going to have to take mine into the shop and get something fixed, really worried about things just to find out I was doing something wrong or a minor mistake was made that was easily corrected. I have been able to correct 95% of issues I thought I had by advice I've recieved on this site, without spending money.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:11 PM   #21
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Mike do you know what gauge wire Newmar uses?

Is there a point inside to mount a controller?
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:23 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebreeze View Post
I disagree about not needing a controler for a 25 watt solar panel. I had a 7 watt without a controller. It would charge the battery by day but it would discharge it at night. Once I bought a controller it would charge during the day and do nothing at night. That's how you keep your RV battery charged.
What your system was missing was a diode to prevent the power from flowing from the batteries to the solar cells when not creating electricity.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:26 PM   #23
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how could a panel attract power in the first place?
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:36 PM   #24
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Jimbo, I'm not sure I guess I could measure it but it looks pretty thick. They told me it was part of the solar prep upgrade which is wired for a much larger solar panel but I don't remember the size it can accomodate. My understanding is if you add the solar panel, you leave the small one on for the chassis battery and then the bigger one would power the house batterys.
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:36 PM   #25
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+ 1on pasdad1, have 2 boats (each with 2 batteries, one deep cycle, one starting), Mh has 3, 5th wheel has 2, atv has one, lawn tractor has 1, dirt bike has 1. So I have experienced the nasty crud of sulfate, you can see it form on the plates. 15 watt solar panels (coleman) per individual battery has solved the problem and, they are always fresh now. The new cear roof on the garden shed did help with the sunlight access for stuff stored in there, little hotter in summer so added side vents up high.
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:04 PM   #26
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Quote:
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+ 1on pasdad1, have 2 boats (each with 2 batteries, one deep cycle, one starting), Mh has 3, 5th wheel has 2, atv has one, lawn tractor has 1, dirt bike has 1. So I have experienced the nasty crud of sulfate, you can see it form on the plates. 15 watt solar panels (coleman) per individual battery has solved the problem and, they are always fresh now. The new cear roof on the garden shed did help with the sunlight access for stuff stored in there, little hotter in summer so added side vents up high.
You guys with sulfate problems, install a PowerPulse unit to your battery bank and no more sulfate problems.

However, for people who store their coach without power the PP is powered off the battery bank so your battery will deplete without adequate charging either from shore power or solar power.

I have three units, two on my House Battery Bank and one on my 8D Chassis Battery.

After a quick Internet search the cheapest is $38 from Wal-Mart on-line.

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Old 09-11-2014, 09:20 AM   #27
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After having the chassis batteries go dead a couple of times on my 2011 Ventana, both in about two weeks of storage, I found that turning off the red disconnect switch in the engine compartment solved that problem. Unfortunately, it causes the Freightliner electronics to lose its memory and then I have to reprogram the date and time every time I turn it back on.

Apparently there are more parasitic draws than Newmar anticipated since the 5 watt solar panel doesn't even do the job in sunny Florida (assuming its even working).
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:39 AM   #28
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I have the 5w solar on my 2005, and until recently it did a fine job as a trickle charger to keep the engine battery topped off. I guess I don't have a substantial amount of drain. I discovered the other day that while I am getting 16v from the solar panel, now only 3v are being delivered to the battery, so I've got something askew.
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