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Old 11-14-2018, 05:16 PM   #15
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DI = DeIonized Water.
This means that there are no minerals in the water, or very low. The measurement is referred to as TDS (Total Disovled Solids). You are looking for less than 50mg / liter. Hard water has > 200mg/liter.

With a low value, you do not have to dry your coach, and it will be spot free. This means less physical contact, and less opportunity to damage the paint.

I built my own system, but there are many ready to go systems such as On The Go. A simple system would be a mixed bed system, where you can rinse your coach 10-30 times before changing out the resin. The reason for the variance is it is direclty related to how many solids are in the incoming water.

At home, my well water has 130 TDS, and with fresh resin, I get 2-3 TDS. Once this exceeds 50, I will start to get spots.
What did you use to build your system?
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:48 PM   #16
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Here’s a good site showing modifications or new DI systems. We have 2 of the CR systems (one for house & other kept in coach for on the road cleanings). Love the systems as noted you can wash entire 43 ft coach in under 1 hour & it will dry spotless even in hot temperatures (we live in FL so I know 1st hand)! I was front cap every day on road & rest of coach before every trip we go on.

https://rvtransformers.com/spotless-water-di-systems/
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:02 PM   #17
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What did you use to build your system?
I ordered the tanks directly from a manufacturer, and then purchased the head with a valve that allows for bypass. All in I spent approx $400 for a complete 2 stage system.
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:06 PM   #18
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Here’s a good site showing modifications or new DI systems. We have 2 of the CR systems (one for house & other kept in coach for on the road cleanings). Love the systems as noted you can wash entire 43 ft coach in under 1 hour & it will dry spotless even in hot temperatures (we live in FL so I know 1st hand)! I was front cap every day on road & rest of coach before every trip we go on.

https://rvtransformers.com/spotless-water-di-systems/
The link you have here for the Pro 100 is what I built. I have the same head, but opted for a tank that was 6x18. I wanted it to fit in the bay behind the batteries. Doing it on your own you can have a 2 stage system for approx $400.
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:39 PM   #19
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The link you have here for the Pro 100 is what I built. I have the same head, but opted for a tank that was 6x18. I wanted it to fit in the bay behind the batteries. Doing it on your own you can have a 2 stage system for approx $400.
What is a 2 stage system in 1 tank.
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:42 PM   #20
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What is a 2 stage system in 1 tank.
I have 2 tanks. Both same size.
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Old 11-14-2018, 08:13 PM   #21
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I have 2 tanks. Both same size.
Thanks
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Old 11-14-2018, 08:38 PM   #22
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I'm embarrassed to post this.

Several months ago we had our beautiful, then brand new DS washed. You guessed it. Lousy job, grit or something in their washing mitts. Fly-by-night operation, now gone.

We're left with scratches. While we were at Newmar a few weeks ago we inquired about having things fixed. We were quoted 40 hours @ $129/hr. Yikes! $5,000? No, we didn't have them do it. After we left Nappanee, I emailed the paint manager and asked what their procedure would be. He wrote: "The light scratches come out best with a wool buffing bonnet on an 8” electric buffer. The rubbing compound we use is made by 3M; the product number is 06086. That needs to be followed by an 8” foam pad with WolfGang polish; product # is 8403."

But when we met on Day 1, he mentioned on our walk around a good wax might be enough to make us happy.

We're now in Boulder City, NV. Has anyone had good experience with detailers in the Vegas/Boulder City area? But moreover, how have you dealt with this? NIRVC will open in January. Maybe wait for them to view? Everyone seems to trust them.

Pm me if you would like to discuss a similar experience I had and what I did about it. My coach is good as new. Thanks.
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