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Old 03-16-2014, 07:48 PM   #15
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That's a good idea Don, I should photograph mine as well. Just in case something ever happened to the writing, I'd still have knowledge of what each fuse is for.

I've got a roll of 12 volt LED lights that I'm going to run across the basement ceiling. Then tie them in to the stock lights. Should light up the whole place, instead of just by the doors.
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
I was use to my Monaco utility bay lighting up when I opened the door without having to turn on the basement lights. The Dutch Star has the lights, but you have to remember to turn them on. I added a second light to the utility bay yesterday, using a pin switch that comes on when you open the door. It's powered separately from the other lights.

"slabman" great minds think alike.
The new King Aire has door switches on every basement door that light up the entire basement with LED lights. Whew!! now I understand why we paid the extra 150K, and I thought it was all for the K3 and the 600 ISX
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:10 PM   #17
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I'm jealous. No wonder mine was so cheap! :-)
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:43 PM   #18
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I'm jealous. No wonder mine was so cheap! :-)
LOL, anyone with a brain has to wonder about the differences between the Essex and the King Aire ( from a price standpoint), way to close in features for the price difference, they're working on product distinctions, but we'll see. We are just getting a big laugh from all of the posts about the exterior LED lighting that's showing up on everything from TT's to Custom Coaches, it will be interesting to see if these "campgrounds" start to look like Vegas at night.
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:44 PM   #19
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Don't forget, part of that increased price is you get a more realistic 60 galon black tank along with the lighting. :-)
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:54 PM   #20
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What would be involved to add door switches to each door.
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:02 PM   #21
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Don't forget, part of that increased price is you get a more realistic 60 galon black tank along with the lighting. :-)
yup, plus the lights around the sinks and under the coach!! it all makes sense now. No matter what the price, we're headed out tomorrow am, we'll see the same America as we saw in our first 5er, cool coaches are fun, We're so lucky to have this country to see, no matter what you're driving or pulling!! LOL 15 years later and DW is asking me, did we forget to load anything?? and I say, nope Wal-mart sells whatever we forgot!!
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Old 03-16-2014, 11:06 PM   #22
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stan....The biggest issue would be making brackets to hold the switches. I never throw away anything that has a metal bracket on it. I was lucky to find a bracket in my junk drawer that worked perfectly. Next you power. The switch I added to the utility bay was easy because there was power already there for the power hose reel. I had a spare light like the compartment lights that I just added at the top.

You could......turn on and leave on the switch for the bay lights, cut the ground wire at each bay light and run it over to a door and a pin switch. That would be the easy solution. You could turn the main switch off when the coach is not in use.
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:39 AM   #23
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Nforus, I don't have sink lights or undercarriage lights either........another reason for the price difference? :-) :-) :-)
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:40 AM   #24
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Don, how many lights came in the basement area of your coach? I believe I only have 5 or 6.
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:45 PM   #25
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Slabman's "great mind" is perplexed. When I wrote the previous post
I had all bay lights ( including add-on lights) working off the pin switches of either of two bay doors. Then suddenly both pin switches malfunctioned. I could feel a mechanical difference in the spring loading in the pins. Got those replaced and have been working fine.

So last week I installed 4 lights on the other side and all were working, until.....
Now those two switches are kaput!

Question: has anyone experienced issues with their pin switches operating the bay/cargo doors? Could more current draw really be mechanically affecting these switches? Seems kinda unlikely TWO switches would fail simultaneously when only one door is opened.
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:58 AM   #26
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You can exceed the amp draw of a switch. When this happens the switch melts internally, and either sticks open or closed.

The switch should have an amp rating. Compare that to the total load of all lights combined.

You can also use a multimeter to verify the load.
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