Crank out window problem

[OldHiker]

First let me state this is just the latest annoyance I have with my 2007 Essex. To say that I am disappointed with the workmanship is putting it mildly. Aside from the ongoing egr problem I have, 8 valves replaced, an ecm and the engine wiring harness to try to fix egr problem, 3 smart wheel modules replaced, ball joint, steering link and now a loud bang when I turn the wheel in a stationary position, wipers lifting from the windshield, just to state a few of the major problems I am experiencing with a unit that barely has 30k on the speedo. Now I see oil from the right front hub. And my window crank mechanisms are delaminating from the window.

Is anyone having the window problem where the opener/closer has come loose (delaminated) from the window itself?

[Chickadee]

OldHiker: G'morning from Pensacola.

Sorry to hear about all the problems with your Essex. We fulltime in our 08, 4502 Essex (Spartan K2, 500 ISM Cummins) towing a Honda Element. Have had same hub oil reservoir leak on R. front wheel repaired, but now seeing same on L. front and having it serviced (hopefully) this weekend.

Re: replacement of crankout, I can't tell ya about "delamination" but I just replaced our smaller crankout vent in our commode compartment. Ordered new one from Newmar and they sent it UPS. Had to return the vent that I removed. Ours had fogged over and I had em send instructional page w. replacement. It's pretty easy to do though you do have to drill out two rivets to free up the crank mount so you can slide guides out of window track and ya need to re-rivet when done. Drop a line if ya decide to replace it and I'll try to help. I bought a hand rivet tool from Menards and it was all pretty easy. Don't know for sure but I assume you talking about delam. of that track attched to the glass. Anyway, good luck. Steve & Lynette

[OldHiker]

My problem is that the piece that is attached to the window itself, has come off on 3 windows. After all the black stuff that is on the window is removed, I use double-sided tape to reattach to window. Just seems like a poor design for attaching the piece that has the most pressure applied when closed.

[Chickadee]

OldHiker: I had to have another crankout replaced up in Nappanee during one of our previous visits and as I watched, part of the process was that the tech had to use some special adhesive/glue to attach the mounting strip to the new vent window glass and they had it clamped to the glass (while working on other items) for about 4 hrs. or so before the new vent was installed. I don't think double faced tape would hold very long especially if the vent window glass get heated by the sun. Ya might call Nappanee and as them what adhesive to use, how best to apply it, and how long to leave clamps on. Steve

[RVDude]

The (very) loud (single) clunk when turning the wheel when stopped might be a rare king-arm issue with the Rayco-Granning design. Talk to Randy at Camp Newmar and he may recall the homework he did to discover this rare problem that Rayco seems to deny exists (except off the record when talking to the third party king arm designers). Randy can install a shim on the king arm pivot and that completely solves the problem.

The front hub leak is from the Stemco "seals" the clear plastic viewing disk on the center of the wheel. It's a common failure of the Stemco used in 07 and replacing them - a very simple job (breath easy) - solves it.

Cummins has had a few EGR cooler issues, necessitating an EGR cooler replacement - if that has been your EGR problem. The EGR stuff is a big deal.

As for the window "delam" I've had nearly all of them detach. It happens when the black UV paint fails (have you had that paint flake off or split/crack?) and allows the UV rays to eat the adhesive. The official Hehr repair (applied at Camp Newmar) involves repainting the special black UV paint and reapplying the Hehr glue. First, the paint can never be applied in the field as nicely as in the Hehr assembly line. What's more, is I've had the official repairs fail in short order too (and I sledom even use the windows!).

The real fix is very simple, looks better than the original, and so far has been totally successful. Start, like Newmar, remove the window - drill out the two pop rivets, remove the mechanism, and the window lifts up and out of the hinge. Keep wiggling it, it'll pop up/off. Scrape off all the black ("crap") paint and glue. Measure the height of the mechanism bar from the glass bottom edge and apply masking tape along the bottom edge to that height. Apply another masking tape above that the width of the bar (~1/2inch). Center the bar and mask the sides. You now have a "window" in the masking tape on the window the exact size as the bar. (PS, make sure you are doing this on the inside of the window!) Clean off the bar sticky side from all the loose paint and junk, do NOT remove the tape like material inside the channel. Mix a little convential epoxy and slather it lightly on the glass opening of the masking tape window. Place the bar on the epoxy (make sure the bar upward edge is up) and lighty clamp using those everyday rubber cinch clamps (or weights). Allow to cure 24hrs. Use a razor to cut the epoxy seepage along the edges of the bar against the glass, remove the tape (with all the epoxy excess) and reinstall the window. Pop rivet (aluminum rivets please) the mechanism back in place and use a black sharpie pen to darken the rivet.

What looks far better is NOT having that massive black band on the bottom, the window mechanism now almost disappears on the much larger appearing glass. It's been 2 years and this repair is holding up perfectly.

Seems all of the problems mentioned are vendor part problems. Stemco, Hehr, Cummins, Rayco-Granning are all the very TOP names in their respective fields. Newmar was wise to select these top tier vendors for their products. None-the-less, it's always a major bummer to have any issue, top-tier or not, but it seems Newmar is stepping up to do their part in resolving them??

PS - The wiper lift is clearly a Newmar engineering design issue (bad Newmar), wrong wiper choice. But it too has a reasonable fix I happened upon by accident when I was trying to fix the poor washer spray problem.

Good luck.

[okfx4]

My small bedroom window crank came off last weekend, I scraped the glue off the lower part of the window, left the tape on, cleaned with alcohol, used dow primer and a bead of urethane, small clamp and duct tape to side of rv with crank out. Let it sit overnight and appears to be fixed. I put vaseline on the window seals to help prevent sticking when opening the windows, that's when mine broke. I guess the best thing is not to open the windows, but I like to...