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Old 08-07-2014, 01:27 PM   #29
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Interesting idea. What kind of contractor do you think would be best to call for something like this?
When we did it at the Fire house, it was a concrete contractor. They will have to cut back farther than you need in order to make sure you have enough concrete under the unit so as not to crack.
Ours did it just wide enough that they were able to support the door track down to the tapered entrance.
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:51 AM   #30
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So,,,,,, Im stubborn and want to make this work. I think Ill go to our local Newmar dealer and have them let me drive a unit with the bags dumped to experience what it is like and insure I can steer the small amount I need to position.
If you're going to do that why not drive it home and try to put it in the garage?? We won't tell.
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Old 08-08-2014, 06:29 AM   #31
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If you're going to do that why not drive it home and try to put it in the garage?? We won't tell.
I would love it do that if it were possible. The issue is there are only 4 Newmar DP's that are 12'5", all the others are 12'8" or taller. The closest dealer with one of those 4 units is over 400 miles away. I think that dealer might have problem with that kind of test drive.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:15 AM   #32
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He said there is no problem driving the coaches a short distance with the bags lowered, they do it at RV dealers all the time. He said holding the manual dump switch would prevent the bags from inflating and doing so was not a problem. He said turning a small amount with the bags dumped was also doable. .
FWIW, the tire dealer that installed our new tires thought he was doing me some kind of favor by raising the jacks...but didn't inflate the airbags first.

When I started the unit and hit the bag's air lever (not realizing that the jacks had been raised) there were four LOUD pops from under the coach. The mechanic thought something was exploding (as did I)...and only after I went to raise the jacks did I realize what had happened.

Inflating bags with jacks up is not a good thing to do. By extension, my guess is that driving a coach with bags on the stops accelerates wear on them.
What dealers do a few times doesn't compare to what you'd be doing every time you enter or leave the garage, IMO.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:21 AM   #33
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When we did it at the Fire house, it was a concrete contractor. They will have to cut back farther than you need in order to make sure you have enough concrete under the unit so as not to crack.
Ours did it just wide enough that they were able to support the door track down to the tapered entrance.
Good advice. If you go whole hog and lower the floor level 12", you're home free for whatever you buy. The contractor can also cut in steps at the forward end of the bay in order to allow easy access.

The limiting factor besides slope (elevation) is the height of the coach's stairs. Either you keep the floor high enough to allow deployment, or pour a secondary slab where the stairs extend (not recommended; trip hazard).
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Old 08-09-2014, 02:48 PM   #34
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I would greatly appreciate that. I'm hypersensitive to this issue because if I buy the RV and it doesn't fit in the garage my wife will shoot me, and then I will shoot me.

If it's possible to get the height with the bags inflated, and deflated, that would be very helpful.

Thanks again for the generous offer.
I can't get into your decision to buy or not but I did promise to measure my 2013 Ventana 3434. Which ever direction you choose, you have received some very good advise, especially to test drive and see if it will fit.

With the bags inflated, the ride height to the top of the rear ladder is 12' 2".
With the bags deflated, you will gain an additional 2".

I also looked at the wheel well area and being very cautious, looks like the front wheels on my unit will turn a small distance.

Lowering the floor surface may still be your best option. Good luck!
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