Dash AC dryer on old DP

[RKins]

Wow, thanks for all the help.
I thought you had to actually be at the compressor to see/hear it engage. I'll check that out today. I will look at the compressor before and then again after I turn on the AC.
Can someone tell me if the fan in front of the condenser is supposed to be on if the dash air is on?

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by RKins

Wow, thanks for all the help.
I thought you had to actually be at the compressor to see/hear it engage. I'll check that out today. I will look at the compressor before and then again after I turn on the AC.
Can someone tell me if the fan in front of the condenser is supposed to be on if the dash air is on?

Hello Rick, if you look at the front of the compressor, you will see something like this in front of the pulley


When the AC is off, this part will not be moving(Pulley behind will be rotating)..........when the AC is switched on. this part will be going around. meaning the AC compressor is engaged.
So, look it over, then start the engine, turn the AC on, then look to see it this part(AC electric clutch) is going around. If it is not, you will see a electrical plug with a single wire on the compressor, pull it off and use a meter to see if there is voltage on it.
Yes, the fan is on when the AC is switched on, at least on mine.

[RKins]

Thanks for that help PH.
So I went to the coach today and did as suggested, compressor not engaged when AC off (just belt pulley) and then the compressor was engaged when I turned on AC.


I let it run a little bit and then touched the pipes/hoses you see on the back of the compressor - the pipe on the right was cool and the one on the left was warm.

I went to the front and located the dryer (I think)


Not sure what this is but it is coming out of the bottom of the Evans Air System.


And then I felt the pipes at this point also - the top was cool and the other was warm.


Here is the fan on the condenser that I need to figure out how to get to


I went back to the back and felt the pipes on the compressor and the right one was cool and the left one was HOT, not leave skin on it hot but pretty hot. Wouldn't want to leave your finger on it for long.
What is this thing? (Big round canister thing)


Ok, I have not bought a set of gauges yet (HF $59) but I am encouraged that the one pipe does feel cool, so maybe it only needs gas?

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by RKins

Thanks for that help PH.
So I went to the coach today and did as suggested, compressor not engaged when AC off (just belt pulley) and then the compressor was engaged when I turned on AC.

What is this thing? (Big round canister thing)


Ok, I have not bought a set of gauges yet (HF $59) but I am encouraged that the one pipe does feel cool, so maybe it only needs gas?

Is the dash air cool/cold? The next thing is to take a meat thermometer and get a temp reading inside the coach, then start it up, dash air on max, fan on hi, and stick the thermometer in the dash vent.........you should have 15 to 20 degrees difference at top performance.
In you last photo, that is the hydraulic tank, and going to guess it has 3 small stacked filter's in it. The round thing on the top of the lid is the dip stick.

[RKins]

Originally Posted by palehorse89

Is the dash air cool/cold? The next thing is to take a meat thermometer and get a temp reading inside the coach, then start it up, dash air on max, fan on hi, and stick the thermometer in the dash vent.........you should have 15 to 20 degrees difference at top performance.

I don't feel any cool out of the vents (or at least a week ago on our cruise). Temp knob is set to max cool.
I know that on my truck I have the meat thermometer showing 40 degrees while stuck in the vent.

Originally Posted by palehorse89

In you last photo, that is the hydraulic tank, and going to guess it has 3 small stacked filter's in it. The round thing on the top of the lid is the dip stick.

Ahhh, I saw some big hoses going into it - just wondering. Guess I need to service that bad boy one of these days too.

[tnrvers]

RKins
By chance have you checked to see if you have warm/hot heater hoses at the heater on the outside of the firewall? If not warm/hot after engine warms up, you will know the coolant shutoff valve is working, because if you are circulating warm coolant into the heater, evident by warm hoses, the A/C can't overcome that heat to give you cool air.

Another thing a lot of us with DPs do is install shut off valves on the coolant hoses close to the engine so that when using the A/C there is no way warm coolant and therefore warm air from the heater can degrade the cool air. A secondary benefit of these is in the event of a hose rupture, the dash heater coolant can be shut off and you can still drive until a fix is completed. You may already have these shut off valves as some manufacturers install them.

Hope this helps and gives you a little more insight.
Tom and Barb
2000 Bounder 39Z

[select55]

Originally Posted by tnrvers

RKins
By chance have you checked to see if you have warm/hot heater hoses at the heater on the outside of the firewall? If not warm/hot after engine warms up, you will know the coolant shutoff valve is working, because if you are circulating warm coolant into the heater, evident by warm hoses, the A/C can't overcome that heat to give you cool air.

Another thing a lot of us with DPs do is install shut off valves on the coolant hoses close to the engine so that when using the A/C there is no way warm coolant and therefore warm air from the heater can degrade the cool air. A secondary benefit of these is in the event of a hose rupture, the dash heater coolant can be shut off and you can still drive until a fix is completed. You may already have these shut off valves as some manufacturers install them.

Hope this helps and gives you a little more insight.
Tom and Barb
2000 Bounder 39Z

exactly ;;what I told him to look at yesterday and several posts ago

[tnrvers]

select55

Sorry, somehow I didn't see your post I and didn't mean to hijack your thoughts and input.

Tom and Barb
2000 Bounder 39Z

[Rotten-Red]

Originally Posted by RKins

Thanks for that help PH.
So I went to the coach today and did as suggested, compressor not engaged when AC off (just belt pulley) and then the compressor was engaged when I turned on AC.


I let it run a little bit and then touched the pipes/hoses you see on the back of the compressor - the pipe on the right was cool and the one on the left was warm.

I went to the front and located the dryer (I think) Yes this is the dryer. On the top of the dryer is a small sight glass. When the A/C is running you should see no bubbles in the flow of liquid going through the fitting. If you see bubbles then you are low on refrigerant. Add slowly until you no longer see bubbles. Do not over charge system, that's just as bad as being low.


Not sure what this is but it is coming out of the bottom of the Evans Air System. That is a vacuum motor that opens and closes the damper door that lets in fresh air to the heater and A/C. When the A/C is run on MAX A/C that door will close. So air will re-circulate within the cabin.


And then I felt the pipes at this point also - the top was cool and the other was warm.


Here is the fan on the condenser that I need to figure out how to get to


I went back to the back and felt the pipes on the compressor and the right one was cool and the left one was HOT, not leave skin on it hot but pretty hot. Wouldn't want to leave your finger on it for long.
What is this thing? (Big round canister thing)


Ok, I have not bought a set of gauges yet (HF $59) but I am encouraged that the one pipe does feel cool, so maybe it only needs gas?

Pic #2: Yes this is the dryer. On the top of the dryer is a small sight glass. When the A/C is running you should see no bubbles in the flow of liquid going through the fitting. If you see bubbles then you are low on refrigerant. Add slowly until you no longer see bubbles. Do not over charge system, that's just as bad as being low.

Pic #3: That is a vacuum motor that opens and closes the damper door that lets in fresh air to the heater and A/C. When the A/C is run on MAX A/C that door will close. So air will re-circulate within the cabin.

[select55]

Originally Posted by tnrvers

select55

Sorry, somehow I didn't see your post I and didn't mean to hijack your thoughts and input.

Tom and Barb
2000 Bounder 39Z

don't be sorry I was agreeing with your opinion and just said I had told him
that this could be a possible solution also but who knows if he read and absorbed such

[RKins]

Originally Posted by select55

depending on how old etc u may not have a low pressure switch on your system or you may have bad compressor or you may have a blockage
if the Freon is circulating for sure then one line should get real cold and one line real warm
if the latter is the case then could be a bad heater temp control or a stuck heater coolant valve that shuts off the engine coolant to the heater

Don't fret select55, I absorb everything. I followed your advice when I checked the temps of the lines. Thank you for the help and any future help. I am learning all the way through this and not ignoring anyone's help/input. I truly appreciate all of the help.

Originally Posted by tnrvers

RKins
By chance have you checked to see if you have warm/hot heater hoses at the heater on the outside of the firewall? If not warm/hot after engine warms up, you will know the coolant shutoff valve is working, because if you are circulating warm coolant into the heater, evident by warm hoses, the A/C can't overcome that heat to give you cool air.

Ok, when I think firewall I think between the engine and the vehicle - would the firewall you refer to be in the back of the coach? Did you see any heater hoses in the pics I posted? That would help direct me to the proper end of the coach (sorry, I have no clue about automotive AC)

Originally Posted by tnrvers

Another thing a lot of us with DPs do is install shut off valves on the coolant hoses close to the engine so that when using the A/C there is no way warm coolant and therefore warm air from the heater can degrade the cool air. A secondary benefit of these is in the event of a hose rupture, the dash heater coolant can be shut off and you can still drive until a fix is completed. You may already have these shut off valves as some manufacturers install them.

I have no clue, until I find the heater hoses I will remain confused about "coolant hoses" vs "heater coolant".
Thanks for the help Tom - I'm sure I'm making this way to hard.

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by RKins

Don't fret select55, I absorb everything. I followed your advice when I checked the temps of the lines.
Next thing is to find the heater hoses.

These are the shut off valve's I just installed this fall, as mine had non from the factory..........bought them on Ebay.


And a box of 10 "Constant Tension Gates Clamps"

[RKins]

Originally Posted by Rotten-Red

Pic #2: Yes this is the dryer. On the top of the dryer is a small sight glass. When the A/C is running you should see no bubbles in the flow of liquid going through the fitting. If you see bubbles then you are low on refrigerant. Add slowly until you no longer see bubbles. Do not over charge system, that's just as bad as being low.

I'll see if I can get a look at the sight glass. I was wondering how much refrigerant to add. I was going to go buy the HF gauge set today and watched a video that said to only put in what the manufacturer says - i.e. 1.4 lbs

Originally Posted by Rotten-Red

Pic #3:

Originally Posted by Rotten-Red

That is a vacuum motor that opens and closes the damper door that lets in fresh air to the heater and A/C. When the A/C is run on MAX A/C that door will close. So air will re-circulate within the cabin.

Ok, I should be able to hear that moving.
Thanks Red.

[RKins]

Originally Posted by palehorse89

These are the shut off valve's I just installed this fall, as mine had non from the factory..........bought them on Ebay.


And a box of 10 "Constant Tension Gates Clamps"

So are these shutoffs installed in the heater hoses or the refrigerant lines? (Sorry, stuck on this for some reason)