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Old 12-28-2016, 05:09 AM   #29
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This may help you with your a/c problem.

https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/insta...EQUILTRAIN.pdf
This is a BIG help - thanks DAJO.
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:30 AM   #30
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RKins
Just happened to stumble across your post.

IMHO everyone who thinks of working on their A/C should go to the Autozone, O'Rieley, Walmart, etc. and purchase a set of test and fill A/C hoses with separate gauges. With these and a little research and you will be able to pin point your A/C problems much easier. The static and pressure readings (if compressor is working) will help you to know what may be going on with your system, might just be low on Freon, you never know til you look.

Yes you can use one hose and a low pressure gauge but you will be much better served and knowledgeable if you spend the extra $25-30 for the hose set.

Best of luck to you.
Tom and Barb
2000 Bounder 39Z
Will be buying a set today - thanks.
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:31 AM   #31
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So are these shutoffs installed in the heater hoses or the refrigerant lines? (Sorry, stuck on this for some reason)
Heater hose's near the Block, so you can easily get to them.
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:22 AM   #32
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If the compressor is staying on, not short cycling Freon is not your problem. If you feel the in and out fittings at the dryer and feel a temp difference , the dryer is bad. Another possibility could be the expansion valve. It could go bad in either open or closed position. You need gauges but you need to know what they are telling you.
If the electric condenser fan is not running, that will cause your pressures to go high and blow warm air. The fan should come on in a few seconds of turning on A/C.
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:55 AM   #33
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Heater hose's near the Block, so you can easily get to them.
Thanks, I'll see if I can find them.
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:59 AM   #34
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If the compressor is staying on, not short cycling Freon is not your problem.
It is staying on - I don't see it stopping and starting.

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Originally Posted by jettyjock View Post
If you feel the in and out fittings at the dryer and feel a temp difference , the dryer is bad.
I'll check that out.

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Another possibility could be the expansion valve. It could go bad in either open or closed position. You need gauges but you need to know what they are telling you.
That would be true - they won't be telling me anything except pressure.

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If the electric condenser fan is not running, that will cause your pressures to go high and blow warm air. The fan should come on in a few seconds of turning on A/C.
Not coming on - I see there is a 25A fuse somewhere - I'll start there. But the fan is very hard to turn, so it may be toast also.

Thanks man.
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Old 12-28-2016, 11:00 AM   #35
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RKins

I have a habit of not always explaining things the simple way, my kids can attest to that. Your hoses going into and out of the dash are either heater hoses containing coolant or A/C hoses containing Freon.

The shutoff valves will be on your heater hose(s) and somewhere close to or on the engine block as palehorse89 stated. If you have two, one will be on the supply to the heater and the other the return back to the engine. These valves may look like those posted or may look totally different as there are many different types, but no matter what type they are, they will be noticeable, but may be difficult to find as they may be close to one another or in two totally separate areas on either side or one front and the other in the rear.

Tried to transfer your 4th picture but it didn't want to load, so I'll explain, this is the bulkhead I misspoke using the term firewall. Look at the one where we said top is cool and bottom is warm. Those are your Freon hoses and in back of them are two other black ones. These should be the heater hoses. If after your engine is warm, A/C on, and heater off, you feel heat when grabbing each of these, your dash controlled shutoff valve is not working properly and you will then need to use the manual shutoff valves addressed above. Don't fret as this isn't and unusual condition.

Again hoping this helps you understand and clears up the confusion I caused.

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Old 12-28-2016, 12:11 PM   #36
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tnrvers, no problem. I'm pretty good at reading between the lines ;-) You are correct in what you are seeing in the pics
Here are the heater hoses up front.




I started the coach, turned on the ac to max air and fan on high. Let it run for 10 minutes. Felt the heater hoses and they were as cool as a cucumber. The temp coming out of the dash was slightly cool.
I felt the in and out on the dryer and they were the same temp. I cleaned the sight glass on the dryer and did see bubbles going past.

I bought the gauge and hooked it up at the front of the coach


I had also bought a can of 134a (aren't they supposed to be pound cans? This was 12oz - just like coffee and bacon and everything else these days ) So I thought about adding freon until the bubbles stopped but it seems I'm missing something that will puncture the can of freon as you screw the hose on

Heater hoses on the block: I looked all around the engine, from the hood side and nothing jumped out at me that looked like the hoses I saw up front. I'll have to crawl under the engine next time I'm there.
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Old 12-28-2016, 12:59 PM   #37
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With your A/C manifold gauge set there should be a hose with a puncture needle so that after your Freon can is attached, it can be punctured and added. If you didn't get that with yours, I would go back and ask what they have in order for you to do this.

Also, with the gauges you should have gotten a chart showing ambient temps, low pressure and high pressure readings, which can help you decide if system is charged, working properly, etc. If you didn't get that chart with your unit, Google Auto A/C manifold test gauge chart and you should pop up many to use and other info.

I'm not an A/C expert nor do I play one on TV, a while back we kept having difficulties with ours so I learned as much as I could until I got it working properly. Be careful not to over fill.

Some steps I took were, with the system shut off for a period of time so the pressures equalized I took static pressure. May need to Goggle Static A/C pressure ranges at ambient temps. Turned A/C on and set engine at high idle (900-1000) RPM, this will get and keep the Freon pumping thru the system and give you a true reading as to the need to fill or not.

Watch your gauges as the system is turned on, running or cycling before you just dump a can or two into it, be sure it needs it first, some systems have a safely valve on the compressor, but I think preventing over fill is the best procedure.

After you are sure that your reading are constant, Goggle auto A/C trouble shooting tips and A/C diagnosis charts as there is a wealth of info available to help if you are careful.

Enjoy your adventure as I'm sure half the fun of fixing something lies within the learning curve and not having to pay a professional.

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Old 12-28-2016, 01:15 PM   #38
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An after thought for you. Assuming that your system is just low on Freon, I want to make you aware of this extra point.

Along with Freon, the A/C system needs A/C oil. From what I understood from my research, if your system only needs a can or two, no need to add the Freon/oil mix. But if a large quantity of Freon is needed then you may want to add a can with the oil in it. Kinda remember what you add because over time you don't want to deplete the A/C oil out of the system as that can cause a compressor failure. I don't remember any bad effects other than poor if there is excess oil, might Goggle and investigate if needed.

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Old 12-28-2016, 01:30 PM   #39
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Dash AC dryer on old DP

I had this problem, if all you have is air coming out the defrost vents, check your resettable fuse on the panel above the gen.


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Old 12-28-2016, 02:55 PM   #40
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I had this problem, if all you have is air coming out the defrost vents, check your resettable fuse on the panel above the gen.


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Funny you say this - I am only getting air from the vent to the left of the driver on top of the dash and one to the right of the passenger in the same place as the one by the driver - are those considered defrost vents? All the rest on the dash in front of driver and passenger don't put out out air at all.


I have a fuse or connection panel above the genny - is that where you're referring to? And you said it is resettable.
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Old 12-28-2016, 03:03 PM   #41
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Tom, thanks for the info - I appreciate it. I went back down to the coach this afternoon and had the intention of removing the fan on the condenser. I could not get a offset drill on the screw from the front so I ended up having to crawl under the coach and squeeze up into the area behind the condenser and come over the top of the condenser to get to the screw heads so I could try to ez-out them. Now this was all being done the Ray Charles way - there was no way to see anything, it was all by feel and I couldn't extract the screws using two different sizes of ez-out. DRAT!!
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:05 PM   #42
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perhaps if you were to fix the vent position switching and got air blowing properly out the dash vents you will find your ac is actually working?
you never said there was no air you said no cold air? big difference
looking at the gauges your pressures are fine and the fact the one line gets cold and one line warm and your heater valve checks out makes me think you dont have a ac problem
yes the fan motor for condenser is required but makes no difference
when u first run the ac especially if the system is cold from sitting
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